Aller au contenu
Il Sartoriale Le monde de la haute mode masculine
★
Il Sartoriale
Par ici Tailleurs sur mesure Bottiers Chemisiers Fabricants & marchands de tissu Tissus & matières
Métier Comment les vêtements sont fabriqués Styles de coupe Artisans Histoire
Vêtements VêtementsAccessoires MarquesPersonnes
Lieux VillesPays Carte du monde
Outils Trouver un tailleur ou un bottierComparaisons PrixGlossaire En savoir plusActualités Interroger les archivesAgents IA ★ EnregistréAPI gratuite
À propos À proposMéthodologie Politique éditoriale Sources Licences d'images Comment nous évaluons CorrectionsContact
Paramètres
Mode sombre
Langue de l'interface

Vue guidée
Nouveau ici ? Chaque page s'ouvre sur une explication en langage courant avant que le détail commence, et les termes techniques sont développés là où ils apparaissent.

Avis d'expert
Vous connaissez déjà le vocabulaire. Directement à l'essentiel, les explications introductives étant masquées. Il s'agit du mode par défaut.

★ Vos pages sauvegardées
470 entrées couvrant la taillerie, la cordonnerie, les étoffes et les métiers d'art Publication de référence : nous ne vendons rien et n'accordons aucun classement contre rémunération Chaque chiffre est accompagné de sa source et de la date à laquelle il a été vérifié

Marque · United States

Brooks Brothers

Brooks Brothers is America's oldest clothing retailer, which popularised ready-made suits in standard sizes, the button-down collar and the American Ivy look.

Brooks Brothers opened in New York in 1818 and introduced or popularised a remarkable number of things now taken for granted: the ready-to-wear suit sold in graded sizes, the sack suit, the button-down collar, and the American understanding of Ivy dress. Its later history has been commercially turbulent.

938 Broadway, New York, built in 1883–84 as a Brooks Brothers store
The building at 938 Broadway, on the corner of East 22nd Street, diagonally southeast of the Flatiron Building, in the Flatiron District of Manhattan, New York City, was built in 1883-1884 to the Brooks Brothers store, and was designed by Charles C. Haight.…

What it introduced

  • Ready-made suits in graded sizes, from the mid-nineteenth century, which changed how clothing was bought.
  • The sack suit: undarted, natural-shouldered, three-roll-two: the American silhouette.
  • The button-down collar, adapted, by the firm's account, from the collars English polo players pinned down to stop them flapping. Introduced around the turn of the twentieth century.
  • The Ivy wardrobe, as a coherent commercial proposition.

The later history

The company passed through several owners in the late twentieth and early twenty-first centuries, filed for bankruptcy protection in 2020, and was acquired out of it. Product specification has varied considerably across that period, and the name is now a weaker guide to what is in a garment than it once was.

The historical contribution is not diminished by that. A great deal of what Americans consider ordinary menswear came out of this one shop.

The button-down collar

The house's account is that John Brooks saw English polo players with their collars buttoned down to stop them flapping and adapted the idea, introducing it around the turn of the twentieth century. It became the single most recognisable American shirt detail.

The original had a long collar with an unlined, soft construction, which is what produces the deep roll that collectors care about. Later versions shortened and stiffened it, and the roll went with them.

Judging the name today

The company filed for bankruptcy in 2020 and has changed hands since, which makes the usual shorthand, buying a garment on the strength of what the house introduced a century ago, unreliable. The historical contribution and the current product are separate questions and should be assessed separately. This is worth generalising beyond one company. A heritage name is a claim about the past; construction, cloth and making are claims about the object in front of you.

En un coup d'œil

Introduced or popularised
Graded ready-to-wear; the sack suit; the button-down collar
Recent history
Bankruptcy protection in 2020; acquired out of it
Caution
Specification has varied widely across ownership changes
Fondée
1818
Ville

Ce que cela coûte

Les prix sur le site →

Ce ne sont pas des devis. Les prix indiqués ci-dessous sont les chiffres les plus récents que nous ayons pu attribuer à une source, présentés dans la devise de leur publication.

QuoiServicePrix TaxeObservéBase
Ready-to-wear suitAn indicative band, not a quotation. Bespoke entry prices normally exclude tax and cloth beyond the house bunch, and houses raise them without announcement. Ready To Wear $700–1,600 — September 2026 Estimated-Range
Il Sartoriale compilation from publicly reported figures
Les prix du sur-mesure de haut de gamme (bespoke) excluent normalement le tissu hors du bunch de la maison, les retouches après livraison et les frais d'expédition. Confirmez avec la maison avant de passer commande.
Dernière révision: September 2026 Signaler une erreur sur cette page
Crédits photographiques 1
  1. Brooks Brothers 938 Broadway: Photograph · Beyond My Ken · Wikimedia Commons · CC BY-SA 4.0

Politique d'images