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Comparação

Cifonelli vs Huntsman

Two structured coats built to opposite ends: Parisian sculpture against English discipline.

An illustration of the house's recorded cut: roped shoulder, full canvas chest, sculpted shoulder, very clean close chest, high waist. Not a photograph of the house's own work.
Alfaiate bespoke

Cifonelli

Cifonelli is a Paris tailoring firm, founded by a Roman family in the 1920s, famous for a padded, rounded shoulder and a very close-fitting chest.

An illustration of the house's recorded cut: roped shoulder, full canvas chest, lean, high-waisted, single button. Not a photograph of the house's own work.
Alfaiate bespoke

Huntsman

Huntsman, Savile Row's sharpest tailor, makes lean jackets with strong shoulders, a high nipped waist and usually one button, rooted in riding clothes.

Both build; neither drapes

Set against the softer end of the trade these two look similar: full canvas, defined shoulder, close chest, marked waist. Set against each other the difference is immediate.

Huntsman's shoulder is squared and lifted by a rope; Cifonelli's is built up into a rounded curve that rolls into the sleeve. English tailoring corrects a shoulder; Parisian tailoring sculpts one.

What each costs in labour

Cifonelli sits meaningfully above Huntsman on price, and the reason is hours rather than materials. The built shoulder requires work that a roped English one does not, and the house's finishing extends to parts of the coat nobody sees.

Both houses take a comparable number of fittings and both draft an individual pattern. The difference is what happens between the fittings.

How each reads

A Huntsman coat reads as upright, formal and slightly military. A Cifonelli coat reads as theatrical; it is the most visually assertive tailoring in Europe that is not deliberately eccentric.

Neither disappears in a room, which is worth knowing if disappearing is what you want. For that, look at Henry Poole or at the Milanese houses.

Lado a lado

CifonelliHuntsman
Fundada 1880 1849
Cidade Paris London
Bespoke Yes Yes
Feito por medida Yes Yes
Pronto a vestir Yes Yes
Ombro Roped Roped
Chest construction Full Canvas Full Canvas
Silhouette Sculpted Shoulder, Very Clean Close Chest, High Waist Lean, High Waisted, Single Button
Handwork Extensive Extensive
Feito em Paris London (Outworkers)
Ownership Cifonelli Family —
Shoulder Built and sculpted, rolled into the sleeve Squared, frequently roped
Chest Very clean and close Clean, lean
Waist High and narrow, slight flare below High and marked
Reads as Theatrical, sculptural Upright, formal, military
Relative price Higher High
City Paris London
Preço de entrada €8,000–13,000
Bespoke jacket · September 2026 · estimated-range
£6,800–10,000
Two-piece bespoke suit · September 2026 · estimated-range
As células sombreadas são as linhas em que os dois diferem. Cada valor provém dos mesmos registos que as páginas individuais; um travessão significa que o facto não está documentado numa fonte que tenhamos podido verificar.

Em que cada um é melhor

Esta secção é opinião editorial, claramente separada do registo acima. Segue os nossos critérios declarados método de avaliação.

For a coat that will be looked at, Cifonelli. For a coat that will be worn to work in a conservative city and will still be correct in twenty years, Huntsman. The Cifonelli shoulder is the most distinctive thing either house does and it is not a neutral choice: you will wear it for the life of the garment.

Outras comparações

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Última revisão: September 2026 Comunicar um erro nesta página

Fontes

Extraído das fontes indicadas em cada página. Cifonelli · Huntsman

  1. House information, Cifonelli.
  2. House information, Huntsman.
Créditos fotográficos 2
  1. An illustration of the house's recorded cut: roped shoulder, full canvas chest, sculpted shoulder, very clean close chest, high waist. Not a photograph of the house's own work.: Original art · Il Sartoriale · Il Sartoriale · Il Sartoriale original art
  2. An illustration of the house's recorded cut: roped shoulder, full canvas chest, lean, high-waisted, single button. Not a photograph of the house's own work.: Original art · Il Sartoriale · Il Sartoriale · Il Sartoriale original art

Política de imagens