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470 entries across tailoring, shoemaking, cloth and craft Reference publication: we sell nothing and rank nobody for payment Every figure carries its source and the date it was checked

Comparison

Liverano vs Rubinacci

Florence against Naples: a wide-lapelled, round, dartless coat, or the soft high-armholed jacket the Neapolitan style was built on.

An illustration of the house's recorded cut: soft shoulder, light canvas chest, rounded, wide lapel, dartless front. Not a photograph of the house's own work.
Bespoke tailor

Liverano & Liverano

The house that made Florentine tailoring internationally legible: wide lapel, round chest, no dart.
An illustration of the house's recorded cut: natural shoulder, light canvas chest, soft, short, open quarters. Not a photograph of the house's own work.
Bespoke tailor

Rubinacci

Rubinacci is the oldest and best-known tailoring house in Naples, founded in 1932, where the soft Neapolitan jacket without heavy padding was first created.

Two soft coats that look nothing alike

Both are lightly constructed Italian houses with international followings, and both are frequently described as making a soft jacket. Put them side by side and the difference is unmistakable.

Liverano's coat is round: a very wide lapel with a full belly, a generous chest, and a front cut with minimal or no dart so nothing interrupts it. Rubinacci's is Neapolitan: a shorter body, open quarters, a high small armhole, and frequently a gathered shoulder.

What each is doing

The Florentine coat is about the front: the lapel and the chest are the design, and the shoulder supports them. The Neapolitan coat is about movement: the armhole and the shoulder are the design, and the front follows.

That is why a Liverano jacket photographs so distinctively and a Rubinacci one feels so distinctive to wear. They are optimised for different things.

Practical differences

Rubinacci is the older business with shops in three cities, ready-to-wear, and a cloth archive customers can commission from. Liverano is a smaller workshop with a longer waiting list.

Both travel. Both cost less than London or Paris. Prices are broadly comparable, with Liverano somewhat higher.

Side by side

Liverano & LiveranoRubinacci
Founded 1948 1932
City Florence Naples
Bespoke Yes Yes
Made-to-measure Yes Yes
Ready-to-wear Yes Yes
Shoulder Soft Natural
Chest construction Light Canvas Light Canvas
Silhouette Rounded, Wide Lapel, Dartless Front Soft, Short, Open Quarters
Handwork Extensive Extensive
Made in Florence Naples
Ownership Liverano Family Rubinacci Family
Tradition Florentine Neapolitan
Lapel Very wide, full belly Moderate, with belly
Front Minimal or no dart Conventionally darted
Shoulder Soft, rounded Natural, often gathered
Optimised for The front: lapel and chest Movement: armhole and shoulder
Scale Small workshop Shops in three cities, plus ready-to-wear
Unusual asset — A vintage cloth archive to commission from
Entry price €4,500–7,000
Bespoke jacket · September 2026 · estimated-range 		€3,800–6,000
Bespoke jacket · September 2026 · estimated-range
Shaded cells are the rows where the two differ. Every value comes from the same records as the individual pages; a dash means the fact is not documented in a source we could verify.

What each is better at

This section is editorial opinion, clearly separated from the record above. It follows our stated assessment method.

For a jacket that will be the most distinctive thing in the room, Liverano. For a jacket that will be the most comfortable thing you own and will still look correct in fifteen years, Rubinacci. If you want cloth nobody else can supply, Rubinacci's archive settles it; there is very little else like it anywhere.

Other comparisons

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Anderson & Sheppard vs HuntsmanCharvet vs Turnbull & AsserCifonelli vs Huntsman
Last reviewed: September 2026 Report an error on this page

Sources

Drawn from the sources listed on each page. Liverano & Liverano · Rubinacci

  1. House information, Liverano & Liverano.
  2. House history, Rubinacci.
Picture credits 2
  1. An illustration of the house's recorded cut: soft shoulder, light canvas chest, rounded, wide lapel, dartless front. Not a photograph of the house's own work.: Original art · Il Sartoriale · Il Sartoriale · Il Sartoriale original art
  2. An illustration of the house's recorded cut: natural shoulder, light canvas chest, soft, short, open quarters. Not a photograph of the house's own work.: Original art · Il Sartoriale · Il Sartoriale · Il Sartoriale original art

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