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470 voci relative a sartoria, calzoleria, tessuti e mestiere Pubblicazione di riferimento: non vendiamo nulla e non classifichiamo nessuno a pagamento Ogni cifra riporta la propria fonte e la data in cui è stata verificata

Confronto

Liverano vs Rubinacci

Florence against Naples: a wide-lapelled, round, dartless coat, or the soft high-armholed jacket the Neapolitan style was built on.

An illustration of the house's recorded cut: soft shoulder, light canvas chest, rounded, wide lapel, dartless front. Not a photograph of the house's own work.
Sarto bespoke

Liverano & Liverano

The house that made Florentine tailoring internationally legible: wide lapel, round chest, no dart.
An illustration of the house's recorded cut: natural shoulder, light canvas chest, soft, short, open quarters. Not a photograph of the house's own work.
Sarto bespoke

Rubinacci

Rubinacci is the oldest and best-known tailoring house in Naples, founded in 1932, where the soft Neapolitan jacket without heavy padding was first created.

Two soft coats that look nothing alike

Both are lightly constructed Italian houses with international followings, and both are frequently described as making a soft jacket. Put them side by side and the difference is unmistakable.

Liverano's coat is round: a very wide lapel with a full belly, a generous chest, and a front cut with minimal or no dart so nothing interrupts it. Rubinacci's is Neapolitan: a shorter body, open quarters, a high small armhole, and frequently a gathered shoulder.

What each is doing

The Florentine coat is about the front: the lapel and the chest are the design, and the shoulder supports them. The Neapolitan coat is about movement: the armhole and the shoulder are the design, and the front follows.

That is why a Liverano jacket photographs so distinctively and a Rubinacci one feels so distinctive to wear. They are optimised for different things.

Practical differences

Rubinacci is the older business with shops in three cities, ready-to-wear, and a cloth archive customers can commission from. Liverano is a smaller workshop with a longer waiting list.

Both travel. Both cost less than London or Paris. Prices are broadly comparable, with Liverano somewhat higher.

Fianco a fianco

Liverano & LiveranoRubinacci
Fondato 1948 1932
Città Florence Naples
Bespoke Yes Yes
Su misura Yes Yes
Prêt-à-porter Yes Yes
Spalla Soft Natural
Chest construction Light Canvas Light Canvas
Silhouette Rounded, Wide Lapel, Dartless Front Soft, Short, Open Quarters
Handwork Extensive Extensive
Made in Florence Naples
Ownership Liverano Family Rubinacci Family
Tradition Florentine Neapolitan
Lapel Very wide, full belly Moderate, with belly
Front Minimal or no dart Conventionally darted
Shoulder Soft, rounded Natural, often gathered
Optimised for The front: lapel and chest Movement: armhole and shoulder
Scale Small workshop Shops in three cities, plus ready-to-wear
Unusual asset — A vintage cloth archive to commission from
Prezzo d'ingresso €4,500–7,000
Bespoke jacket · September 2026 · estimated-range 		€3,800–6,000
Bespoke jacket · September 2026 · estimated-range
Le celle ombreggiate corrispondono alle righe in cui i due elementi differiscono. Ogni valore proviene dagli stessi record delle pagine individuali; un trattino indica che il dato non è documentato in una fonte verificabile.

In cosa ciascuno è più adatto

Questa sezione è opinione editoriale, chiaramente separata dalla scheda precedente. Segue i nostri criteri dichiarati metodo di valutazione.

For a jacket that will be the most distinctive thing in the room, Liverano. For a jacket that will be the most comfortable thing you own and will still look correct in fifteen years, Rubinacci. If you want cloth nobody else can supply, Rubinacci's archive settles it; there is very little else like it anywhere.

Altri confronti

Tutti →
Anderson & Sheppard vs HuntsmanCharvet vs Turnbull & AsserCifonelli vs Huntsman
Ultima revisione: September 2026 Segnala un errore in questa pagina

Fonti

Tratto dalle fonti indicate in ciascuna pagina. Liverano & Liverano · Rubinacci

  1. House information, Liverano & Liverano.
  2. House history, Rubinacci.
Crediti fotografici 2
  1. An illustration of the house's recorded cut: soft shoulder, light canvas chest, rounded, wide lapel, dartless front. Not a photograph of the house's own work.: Original art · Il Sartoriale · Il Sartoriale · Il Sartoriale original art
  2. An illustration of the house's recorded cut: natural shoulder, light canvas chest, soft, short, open quarters. Not a photograph of the house's own work.: Original art · Il Sartoriale · Il Sartoriale · Il Sartoriale original art

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