Chuyển đến nội dung
Il Sartoriale Thế giới thời trang nam cao cấp
★
Il Sartoriale
Bắt đầu từ đây Các thợ may bespoke Thợ đóng giày Thợ may áo sơ mi Nhà sản xuất & thương nhân vải Vải & vật liệu
Nghề thủ công Cách may quần áo Các phong cách may Các thợ thủ công Lịch sử
Trang phục Trang phục mayPhụ kiện Thương hiệuCon người
Địa điểm Thành phốQuốc gia Bản đồ thế giới
Công cụ Tìm thợ may hoặc thợ đóng giàyCác so sánh Giá cảBảng thuật ngữ Tìm hiểuTin tức Hỏi kho tư liệutác nhân AI ★ Đã lưuAPI miễn phí
Giới thiệu Về chúng tôiPhương pháp luận Chính sách biên tập Nguồn tham khảo Cấp phép hình ảnh Cách chúng tôi đánh giá Đính chínhLiên hệ
Cài đặt
Chế độ tối
Ngôn ngữ giao diện

Chế độ xem hướng dẫn
Lần đầu tiếp cận? Mỗi trang mở đầu bằng phần giải thích ngôn ngữ thông thường trước khi đi vào chi tiết, và thuật ngữ kỹ thuật được giải nghĩa ngay khi xuất hiện.

Nhận định chuyên gia
Bạn đã quen với thuật ngữ. Vào thẳng nội dung, phần giải thích nhập môn được ẩn đi. Đây là chế độ mặc định.

★ Trang đã lưu của bạn
470 mục về may đo, đóng giày, vải và nghề thủ công Ấn phẩm tham khảo: chúng tôi không bán gì và không xếp hạng ai vì tiền Mọi con số đều có nguồn dẫn và ngày được kiểm tra

Trang phục · Shirts

The dress shirt

A dress shirt is judged by how it fits at the collar, shoulder and cuff, and by construction details that decide how long it lasts.

A shirt is judged at the collar, the shoulder and the cuff, because those are the parts visible under a jacket. Its construction (how the collar is interlined, whether the sleeve is set by hand, the single-needle seams, the button quality) determines how it behaves and how long it lasts.

A white dress shirt with a double cuff
A white dress shirt with a double cuff

Fit, in three places

  • The collar. A finger should slide comfortably between collar and neck. Too tight and it strangles; too loose and it gaps and the tie shows a gap at the knot.
  • The shoulder seam. Should sit at the end of your shoulder, as with a jacket. Everything else on a shirt can be altered; this cannot.
  • The cuff. Tight enough that it does not slide over the hand when the arm is lowered; that is what keeps the shirt cuff showing at the jacket sleeve.

Construction

FeatureBetterCheaper
Collar interliningSewn-in or unlined: rolls, softens with ageFused: flat, crisp, can bubble
SeamsSingle-needle, narrow, cleanDouble-needle, wider, puckers
Sleeve attachmentSet by hand, eased at the headMachine set at constant tension
ButtonsMother of pearl, thick, cross-stitched onPlastic, thin
Pattern matchingMatched at the yoke, front and pocketNot matched
Split yokeTwo pieces, allowing shoulder asymmetryOne piece
 Almost none of this appears on a label. A shirt's price often reflects the cloth alone.

Collar shapes

The collar frames the face, and the useful principle is contrast: a wider spread balances a narrower face, a point collar suits a rounder one. Collar height matters more than most people realise: a taller collar sits better under a jacket and does not disappear.

The button-down is a specific case: an unlined collar, long enough to roll properly, buttoned to force the curve. Shorten it or fuse it and the roll disappears, which is what has happened to most button-downs currently sold.

Hình ảnh

Cấp phép →
A man's shirt
Man's off-white cotton long-sleeved dress shirt with a pointed collar, breast pocket, and six pearl buttons. This shirt belonged to Charles Lindbergh and was packed by him into a trunk at his room at Lambert Field near Saint Louis prior to leaving on his…

Tóm lược

Judged at
Collar, shoulder, cuff
Cannot be altered
The shoulder
Key construction variable
Collar interlining: fused, sewn or unlined
Buttons
Mother of pearl is the standard for good shirts

Các nhà chế tác liên quan

An illustration of a shirt of the kind the house makes. Not a photograph of the house's own work. 01 Thợ may áo sơ mi

Anna Matuozzo

Anna Matuozzo is a Naples shirtmaker, now run by the founder's daughters, whose custom shirts have unusually much hand sewing, including collars, sleeves and buttonholes.

 Ascot Chang's Kimberley Road shop, Hong Kong, in 1961 02 Thợ may áo sơ mi

Ascot Chang

Ascot Chang is a Hong Kong shirtmaker founded in 1953, with shops there and in New York, that cuts each customer their own pattern.

 Budd Shirtmakers' windows in the Piccadilly Arcade, at Christmas 03 Thợ may áo sơ mi

Budd Shirtmakers

A small London shirtmaker that has stayed a shirtmaker, in an arcade off Piccadilly.

 Charvet's shop at 28 Place Vendôme, Paris 04 Thợ may áo sơ mi

Charvet

The first shop in the world to make shirts to measure for whoever walked in, and still the reference.

 An illustration of a shirt of the kind the house makes. Not a photograph of the house's own work. 05 Thợ may áo sơ mi

D'Avino

D'Avino is a shirtmaker near Naples making small numbers of custom shirts, known above all for how many steps are sewn by hand.

 An illustration of a shirt of the kind the house makes. Not a photograph of the house's own work. 06 Thợ may áo sơ mi

Emma Willis

A Jermyn Street shirtmaker with its own factory in Gloucester: an unusual degree of control.
  1. An illustration of a shirt of the kind the house makes. Not a photograph of the house's own work. G. Inglese Thợ may áo sơ mi · 1955

    G. Inglese is a family shirtmaker in the small Puglia town of Ginosa, famous worldwide through specialist shops and online for heavily hand-sewn shirts.
  2. An illustration of a shirt of the kind the house makes. Not a photograph of the house's own work. Luca Avitabile Thợ may áo sơ mi · Naples

    Luca Avitabile is a Naples shirtmaker who cuts each customer their own pattern and sews nearly everything by hand, mostly meeting clients in London and New York.
  3. An illustration of a shirt of the kind the house makes. Not a photograph of the house's own work. Simone Abbarchi Thợ may áo sơ mi · Florence

    A Florentine shirtmaker whose prices have made him the entry point to Italian bespoke for a lot of people.
  4. An illustration of a shirt of the kind the house makes. Not a photograph of the house's own work. Siniscalchi Thợ may áo sơ mi · Milan

    Siniscalchi is a Milan shirtmaker making custom shirts that are cleaner and crisper than Naples shirts, with carefully built collars and a close fit.
  5. Turnbull & Asser's shop in St James's, London Turnbull & Asser Thợ may áo sơ mi · London · 1885

    Jermyn Street's best-known name, with a bespoke workroom behind the shop and a distinctive collar.
  6. An illustration of the house's recorded cut: roped shoulder, full canvas chest, structured english, military bearing. Not a photograph of the house's own work. Dege & Skinner Thợ may bespoke · London · 1865

    Dege & Skinner is a family-owned Savile Row tailor known for military and ceremonial uniforms, and rare in making custom shirts in the same building.

Cách thực hiện

Tất cả kỹ thuật →
  1. A shirt collar opened to show its layers Shirt collar construction

    How a shirt collar is lined and attached decides whether it sits stiff and flat or rolls softly, and cheaper shirts often cut corners here.
Xem xét lần cuối: September 2026 Báo cáo lỗi trên trang này

Liên quan

Kỹ thuậtShirt collar construction Thuật ngữ từ điểnButton-down collar Phụ kiệnCufflinks Thuật ngữ từ điểnMother of pearl Thuật ngữ từ điểnSingle-needle stitching Thuật ngữ từ điểnPlacket VảiSea Island cotton Thuật ngữ từ điểnShirt tail Thuật ngữ từ điểnSplit yoke Thợ may áo sơ miCharvet Thuật ngữ từ điểnCollar band VảiCotton
Ghi công hình ảnh 15
  1. A white dress shirt with a double cuff: Original art · Il Sartoriale · Il Sartoriale · Il Sartoriale original art
  2. Man's Off-White Cotton Dress Shirt Belonging to Charles Lindbergh: Photograph · Perfecto · Wikimedia Commons · Public domain
  3. An illustration of a shirt of the kind the house makes. Not a photograph of the house's own work.: Original art · Il Sartoriale · Il Sartoriale · Il Sartoriale original art
  4. KIMBERLY RD STORE EXPANSION 1961: Photograph · Shortmiracle · Wikimedia Commons · CC BY-SA 4.0
  5. Piccadilly Arcade, December 2015 03: Photograph · Edwardx · Wikimedia Commons · CC BY-SA 4.0
  6. Charvet store: Photograph · Racconish · Wikimedia Commons · CC BY-SA 3.0
  7. An illustration of a shirt of the kind the house makes. Not a photograph of the house's own work.: Original art · Il Sartoriale · Il Sartoriale · Il Sartoriale original art
  8. An illustration of a shirt of the kind the house makes. Not a photograph of the house's own work.: Original art · Il Sartoriale · Il Sartoriale · Il Sartoriale original art
  9. An illustration of a shirt of the kind the house makes. Not a photograph of the house's own work.: Original art · Il Sartoriale · Il Sartoriale · Il Sartoriale original art
  10. An illustration of a shirt of the kind the house makes. Not a photograph of the house's own work.: Original art · Il Sartoriale · Il Sartoriale · Il Sartoriale original art
  11. An illustration of a shirt of the kind the house makes. Not a photograph of the house's own work.: Original art · Il Sartoriale · Il Sartoriale · Il Sartoriale original art
  12. An illustration of a shirt of the kind the house makes. Not a photograph of the house's own work.: Original art · Il Sartoriale · Il Sartoriale · Il Sartoriale original art
  13. Turnbull & Asser, St James's, October 2021: Photograph · No Swan So Fine · Wikimedia Commons · CC BY-SA 4.0
  14. An illustration of the house's recorded cut: roped shoulder, full canvas chest, structured english, military bearing. Not a photograph of the house's own work.: Original art · Il Sartoriale · Il Sartoriale · Il Sartoriale original art
  15. A shirt collar opened to show its layers: Original art · Il Sartoriale · Il Sartoriale · Il Sartoriale original art

Chính sách hình ảnh