8 entrées
Histoire
Comment le costume, le smoking, la cravate et le métier lui-même sont apparus, avec les mythes identifiés comme tels.
History
8 entrées
01
How the suit happened
The modern suit grew from the coat, waistcoat and breeches of the 1660s English court, simplified by country and riding clothes over two centuries.
02
How Savile Row happened
Savile Row filled with tailors around 1800 to be near aristocratic clients, and it is now a small trade with a famous name and too few makers.
03
How Naples took the weight out of the jacket
Neapolitan tailoring began in 1930s Naples, where workshops like Rubinacci removed the padding, stiffening and lining from English jackets so they felt light in the heat.
04
How the dinner jacket happened
The dinner jacket started as a blue silk coat Henry Poole made for the Prince of Wales in 1865, and Americans named it after Tuxedo Park.
05
How men's shoes reached their present form
Ordinary dress shoes owe a lot to the 1870s Goodyear welting machine, which let machines build shoes that could still be repaired.
06
How the necktie happened
Croatian mercenaries, a French court, and a nineteenth-century knot that never went away.
-
The rise of ready-to-wear
Ready-made clothing took off in the nineteenth century when making uniforms, especially for the American Civil War, showed how body sizes vary.
-
The blazer, and two stories about it
The blazer, a navy jacket often with metal buttons, is said to come from a Cambridge rowing club or HMS Blazer, though neither story is proven.
Crédits photographiques 8
- A modern suit beside a frock coat: Original art · Il Sartoriale · Il Sartoriale · Il Sartoriale original art
- A chalk-stripe jacket in a bright cutting room: Original art · Il Sartoriale · Il Sartoriale · Il Sartoriale original art
- A linen jacket in Mediterranean sun: Original art · Il Sartoriale · Il Sartoriale · Il Sartoriale original art
- A grosgrain shawl lapel with a bow tie: Original art · Il Sartoriale · Il Sartoriale · Il Sartoriale original art
- New welted oxfords beside a last: Original art · Il Sartoriale · Il Sartoriale · Il Sartoriale original art
- A silk tie knotted beside a linen cravat: Original art · Il Sartoriale · Il Sartoriale · Il Sartoriale original art
- A long rail of identical suits in a showroom: Original art · Il Sartoriale · Il Sartoriale · Il Sartoriale original art
- A navy blazer with brass buttons: Original art · Il Sartoriale · Il Sartoriale · Il Sartoriale original art