Stoff · Cloth
Denim
Denim is the cotton cloth of jeans, woven from blue and undyed threads, and its indigo dye sits on the surface and wears away into fades.
Denim is a cotton twill woven with indigo-dyed warp threads and undyed weft, which is why jeans are blue outside and white inside. Indigo does not penetrate the fibre; it sits in layers on the surface and abrades away with wear, which is the entire basis of how denim fades.
Why denim fades the way it does
Indigo is a vat dye with poor affinity for cotton. Rather than penetrating the fibre, it builds up in rings on the outside of the yarn, leaving a white core. As the cloth abrades (at the knees, the thighs, the seat, the hems) those layers wear off and the white core shows through. That is why fading follows the wearer's body and habits, and why a pair of jeans becomes a record of how someone sits and walks. No other common cloth does this.
Selvedge
Selvedge denim is woven on a shuttle loom, which turns the weft at the edge of the cloth and produces a finished, self-bound edge, visible as the clean banded seam inside a turned-up cuff. Shuttle looms weave a narrower cloth much more slowly than a modern projectile loom.
The interesting part is not the edge. It is that a shuttle loom weaves at lower tension with a less even beat, producing a cloth with slight irregularities that fade with more character. Most selvedge denim today is woven in Okayama, Japan, on looms retired by American mills in the 1960s and 1970s.
Weights and finishes
Denim is quoted in ounces per square yard. Around 12 to 14 ounces is standard; above 16 is heavyweight and stiff enough to stand up on its own; specialist mills weave beyond 20, which is more of an endurance test than a garment.
Raw or dry denim is unwashed from the loom and shrinks on first wash; sanforised denim has been pre-shrunk mechanically and will not. One-wash denim has been washed once to shrink it and is the practical middle. Distressing (the pre-faded, whiskered, sandblasted finishes) is done chemically and mechanically in the factory, and it imitates in an afternoon what wearing does over two years.
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- Raw selvedge denim showing its edge: Original art · Il Sartoriale · Il Sartoriale · Il Sartoriale original art
- Lee 101 Hemp Jelt tab (2025-12-19) 7: Photograph · Olgierd Rudak · Wikimedia Commons · CC0
- Full Count Denim Fade: Photograph · Coldwrld · Wikimedia Commons · CC BY-SA 4.0
- Raw selvedge jeans folded at the cuff: Original art · Il Sartoriale · Il Sartoriale · Il Sartoriale original art