Stoff · Cloth
Flannel
Flannel is wool shrunk and brushed until soft and fuzzy, making warm, matte cloth that forgives creases, and grey flannel trousers are hugely useful.
Flannel is wool cloth that has been milled, shrunk in warm water so the fibres felt together, and then raised, so a soft nap covers the weave. The result is warm, soft, matte, forgiving of creases and unable to hold a sharp press. Grey flannel trousers are the single most useful garment in classic menswear.
Finish, not structure
Two cloths can be woven identically and only one is a flannel, because flannel is defined by what happens after the loom. Milling shrinks and felts the cloth; raising lifts fibre ends to the surface; cropping levels them. The weave underneath disappears into a soft fuzz.
Woollen-spun flannel (carded, lofty yarn) is softer, warmer and fuzzier. Worsted flannel is spun from combed yarn and then milled, so it keeps more definition and wears harder. Both are flannel; they behave differently.
Why grey flannel trousers
Because the nap absorbs light and hides everything. A grey flannel trouser is forgiving of creases, of sitting down, of a slightly imperfect fit, and it goes with essentially every jacket in a wardrobe. It is the most useful single item in a classic wardrobe and the most frequently recommended first purchase for anyone building one.
The English tradition (Fox Brothers in Somerset is the reference) associates flannel with weight, and a 13- or 14-ounce flannel trouser hangs in a way a light one cannot. Light flannels exist and are comfortable; they bag at the knee sooner.
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The sport coat
A sport coat is a jacket worn with non-matching trousers, traditionally in textured cloth like tweed with patch pockets and a softer feel than suit jackets.
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Trousers
Trousers wear out about twice as fast as the matching jacket, and how high they sit on your waist shapes everything else about them.
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- Mid-grey flannel with a faint chalk stripe: Original art · Il Sartoriale · Il Sartoriale · Il Sartoriale original art
- A tweed sport coat on a hanger: Original art · Il Sartoriale · Il Sartoriale · Il Sartoriale original art
- Grey flannel trousers on a hanger: Original art · Il Sartoriale · Il Sartoriale · Il Sartoriale original art