Pembuat Sepatu · Northampton · Didirikan 1879

Crockett & Jones

Crockett & Jones is a family-owned Northampton shoemaker whose wide range runs from standard well-made shoes to a much more finely finished premium line.

Crockett & Jones has made shoes in Northampton since 1879 and remains family-owned. Its range spans the Benchgrade line (the standard English welted shoe, made in quantity) and the Handgrade line, finished to a considerably higher standard. Few makers cover as much ground competently.

Ready-to-wear

Crockett & Jones Dalton shoes in black calf — Crockett & Jones men's dress shoes, type Dalton, black calf leather, Goodyear construction

Gaya rumah mode — bahu: tidak terdokumentasi

Dada — selective handwork

Fitting — lead time tidak terdokumentasi

Dari $580 terendah yang terdokumentasi, setelah konversi

Two lines, one factory

The Benchgrade range is what most people mean by an English shoe: Goodyear-welted, well-lasted, durable, resoleable, and priced within reach. The Handgrade range uses better leathers, closer waists and more hand finishing, and competes with makers charging considerably more. Both are made in the same Northampton factory. The distinction is specification and hours, not location or construction.

The lasts

As with the other Northampton makers, the last decides both fit and appearance, and the house numbers them: the 348 is a rounded, accommodating shape; the 337 is longer and more elegant; the 341 is a chisel toe. The same size fits differently across them.

The range's breadth is a genuine advantage here: a customer whose foot does not suit one shape can usually find another in the same catalogue rather than changing maker.

Benchgrade or Handgrade

The construction is the same in both: Goodyear-welted, leather-lined, leather-soled. What the Handgrade line adds is better hides, a closer-trimmed waist, more hand finishing on the edges and sole, and lasts with more shape. It is roughly two-thirds more expensive.

For a first serious pair, Benchgrade is the sensible purchase and will outlast several cheaper shoes. The Handgrade argument becomes stronger once someone owns three or four pairs and starts noticing the differences.

Hand welted

holdfast dipahat dari insole

holdfast adalah bagian dari insol

Dapat diganti solnya: berulang kali

Goodyear welted

rib canvas direkatkan ke insole

gemming direkatkan: bagian yang rentan gagal

Dapat diganti solnya: beberapa kali

Blake

satu jahitan menembus semua lapisan

jahitan masuk ke dalam sepatu

Dapat diganti solnya: dengan mesin Blake

Cemented

sol direkatkan ke upper

perekat saja

Dapat diganti solnya: umumnya tidak

upper insole welt outsole

Bagaimana sol ditempelkan, dan apakah dapat diganti Welt pada dua konstruksi di sebelah kiri menopang jahitan sol, sehingga sol dapat dilepas tanpa mengganggu upper. Pengelasan tangan memotong alurnya dari insol itu sendiri; Goodyear merekatkan rusuk kanvas, dan rusuk itulah yang pada akhirnya akan gagal. Diagram dibuat untuk Il Sartoriale.

Rekam jejak

Didirikan

1879

Kota

Northampton

Negara

United Kingdom

Service levels

Ready-to-wear

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