Sapateiro · Tokyo

Hiro Yanagimachi

Hiro Yanagimachi is a small Tokyo workshop making custom shoes by hand, known for carefully designed shoe forms that follow the structure of the foot.

Hiro Yanagimachi makes bespoke shoes in Tokyo, hand-welted, with a strong emphasis on last design and on the relationship between the shoe's shape and the foot's structure. The workshop is small and takes a limited number of commissions.

BespokeFeito por medida

An illustration of a welted shoe of the kind the house makes. Not a photograph of the house's own work.

Estilo da casa — ombro: não documentado

Peito — extensive handwork

Provas 2–3 40–104 semanas

De $5,500 mínimo documentado, convertido

Last first

Yanagimachi's work is notable for how much attention goes into the last before any leather is cut: the shape is treated as the design problem rather than the pattern or the finish.

The finished shoes are clean and quiet: less obviously virtuosic than some Japanese work, and admired within the trade for exactly that.

Services

Bespoke on a carved last, and a made-to-order service on the workshop's existing lasts at a lower price. Both are hand-welted and made in the Tokyo workshop.

Output is small and the waiting list reflects it. The workshop travels occasionally but is principally accessed in Tokyo.

Approach

The workshop treats the last as the design problem: how the shoe holds the heel, releases at the joint and supports the arch is worked out before any decision about pattern or finish. The results are deliberately quiet: clean lines, restrained decoration, nothing that announces the effort.

Within the Tokyo scene this is a distinct position. Much Japanese bespoke shoemaking competes on visible virtuosity; this house competes on the part nobody photographs.

Welt costurado à mão

holdfast talhado na palmilha

o holdfast faz parte da palmilha

Ressoleável: repetidamente

Goodyear welted

nervura de entretela colada à palmilha

a gemming está colada: é a parte que falha

Ressoleável: várias vezes

Blake

uma costura por tudo

a costura penetra no sapato

Ressoleável: com uma máquina Blake

Cimentado

sola colada à gáspea

apenas adesivo

Ressoleável: geralmente não

gáspea palmilha welt sola

Como uma sola é fixada e se pode ser substituída O welt nas duas construções da esquerda suporta a costura da sola, pelo que a sola se separa sem perturbar o upper. A costura welt à mão recorta a sua crista da própria palmilha; a Goodyear cola uma nervura de canvas, e é essa nervura que acaba por ceder. Diagrama elaborado para Il Sartoriale.

O registo

Cidade

Tokyo

País

Japan

Service levels

Bespoke · Made-to-measure

Ombro