制鞋师 · London · 创立于 1849
John Lobb (St James's)
John Lobb of St James's is a family-owned London firm making shoes by hand to each customer's own foot shape, separate from John Lobb Paris.
John Lobb of St James's Street is a family-owned London bespoke bootmaker founded in 1849. It makes hand-welted shoes on lasts carved for the individual customer, holds royal warrants, and is not to be confused with John Lobb Paris, a separate ready-to-wear business owned by Hermès that uses the same name under a historical arrangement.
Two John Lobbs
This is the most persistent confusion in shoemaking and it is worth settling first. John Lobb of St James's Street, London is a family-owned bespoke bootmaker. John Lobb Paris is a separate business, owned by Hermès since the 1970s, which makes ready-to-wear and made-to-order shoes and also offers bespoke. Both trace to the same nineteenth-century founder; they are now unrelated companies.
A shoe described as John Lobb without further qualification is almost always the Paris business, because it is far larger and has shops. The London firm has one address.
The commission
A first bespoke commission begins with measurement and observation of both feet, from which a last is carved in wood for that customer. A trial shoe is made and fitted, the last is adjusted, and the finished pair is then made: clicked, closed, lasted, hand-welted, soled and finished by different specialists. The whole process runs to something like six months or more for a first pair, and the last is kept for subsequent orders. That is what makes a second pair meaningfully faster and a first pair expensive.
The workshop
The St James's Street premises hold the shop and, behind and below it, the workshop and the last room, where customers' lasts are stored: thousands of them, including those of long-dead clients.
Work is divided among specialists as it is in tailoring: last maker, clicker, closer, maker, finisher. A single pair passes through several pairs of hands, which is why the lead time is what it is.
What a bespoke shoe actually buys
Fit, first: a last carved for both of your feet, which differ, and corrected after a trial shoe. For a foot that ready-to-wear cannot accommodate, nothing else solves the problem.
Longevity, second: hand-welted construction with a holdfast cut from the insole has no gemming to fail, so the shoe can be resoled as many times as the upper survives, which for a lightly worn pair can be decades. The economics are still poor against good ready-to-wear; the fit is the argument.
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| 什么 | 服务 | 价格 | 实测 |
|---|---|---|---|
| Bespoke oxford shoeFirst-pair bespoke including the carved last. Later pairs on an existing last are lower. An indicative band, not a quotation. | 全定制 | £5,000–8,000 | September 2026 |
常与之并列参考的工坊
归为一组，因为它们争取相同的委托订单或在相近的风格体系内工作：并非排名，亦非等同。
01
George Cleverley
George Cleverley is a London shoemaker in the Royal Arcade, making custom and off-the-shelf shoes known for a long, slightly squared-off toe.
02
John Lobb (Paris)
John Lobb Paris is a Hermès-owned shoe brand selling high-end factory-made and made-to-order shoes, and is a separate company from the London John Lobb.
03
Yohei Fukuda
English method, Japanese execution, and one of the finest bespoke shoes made anywhere today.
参考资料
- House information , John Lobb Bootmaker.
若某项数据存在争议，或工坊未予公开，本页将如实说明，而非擅自采用某一数字。
图片版权 5
- Store front of John Lobb, 88 Jermyn St, London: Photograph · OlafJanssen · Wikimedia Commons · CC BY-SA 3.0
- Shop interior of John Lobb, bespoke shoe and bootmaker, 88 Jermyn Street, London: Photograph · OlafJanssen · Wikimedia Commons · CC BY-SA 3.0
- An illustration of a welted shoe of the kind the house makes. Not a photograph of the house's own work.: Original art · Il Sartoriale · Il Sartoriale · Il Sartoriale original art
- An illustration of a welted shoe of the kind the house makes. Not a photograph of the house's own work.: Original art · Il Sartoriale · Il Sartoriale · Il Sartoriale original art
- An illustration of a welted shoe of the kind the house makes. Not a photograph of the house's own work.: Original art · Il Sartoriale · Il Sartoriale · Il Sartoriale original art