Pembuat Sepatu · Northampton · Didirikan 1829

Tricker's

Tricker's is the oldest surviving shoemaker in Northampton, best known for heavy country boots like the Stow brogue boot with its thick, chunky sole.

Tricker's has made shoes in Northampton since 1829, making it the oldest surviving shoemaker in the town. It is best known for heavy country footwear, the Stow brogue boot above all, built on a storm welt with a chunky sole.

BespokeReady-to-wear

Tricker's shop on Jermyn Street, London — Trickers, Jermyn Street, London. Shoemakers since 1829.

Gaya rumah mode — bahu: tidak terdokumentasi

Dada — selective handwork

Fitting — lead time tidak terdokumentasi

Dari $600 terendah yang terdokumentasi, setelah konversi

Country construction

A country boot is a different object from a city shoe: heavier leather, a storm welt that turns up to seal against water, a thick double or commando sole, and a last cut with more room. Tricker's has specialised in this for nearly two centuries.

The Stow, a full-brogue derby boot, is the model most associated with the house and one of the few pieces of English footwear recognisable by name.

Bespoke and the London shop

Alongside the factory range, Tricker's operates a bespoke service and has a shop on Jermyn Street. The bespoke work is a small operation and quite separate from the Northampton factory output.

The factory range itself splits between the country line the house is known for and a smaller collection of town shoes, which are less distinctive and compete directly with its neighbours.

The country shoe as a category

A country boot is built to different priorities from a city shoe: a storm welt that turns up to seal the joint against water, a double leather or commando sole for grip and insulation from cold ground, heavier grain leather that resists scuffing, and a last cut with room for a thick sock.

It follows that a country boot worn in a city looks over-built and wears out slowly, and a city shoe worn in a field falls apart. The Stow is the archetype of the first and is one of the very few shoes recognisable to people outside the trade.

Hand welted

holdfast dipahat dari insole

holdfast adalah bagian dari insol

Dapat diganti solnya: berulang kali

Goodyear welted

rib canvas direkatkan ke insole

gemming direkatkan: bagian yang rentan gagal

Dapat diganti solnya: beberapa kali

Blake

satu jahitan menembus semua lapisan

jahitan masuk ke dalam sepatu

Dapat diganti solnya: dengan mesin Blake

Cemented

sol direkatkan ke upper

perekat saja

Dapat diganti solnya: umumnya tidak

upper insole welt outsole

Bagaimana sol ditempelkan, dan apakah dapat diganti Welt pada dua konstruksi di sebelah kiri menopang jahitan sol, sehingga sol dapat dilepas tanpa mengganggu upper. Pengelasan tangan memotong alurnya dari insol itu sendiri; Goodyear merekatkan rusuk kanvas, dan rusuk itulah yang pada akhirnya akan gagal. Diagram dibuat untuk Il Sartoriale.

Rekam jejak

Didirikan

1829

Kota

Northampton

Negara

United Kingdom

Service levels

Bespoke · Ready-to-wear

Bahu