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470 entries across tailoring, shoemaking, cloth and craft Reference publication: we sell nothing and rank nobody for payment Every figure carries its source and the date it was checked

Bespoke tailor · Founded 1916

Oxxford Clothes

Oxxford Clothes is a Chicago suit maker, around since 1916, whose factory suits involve so much hand sewing they get compared with European custom tailoring.

Oxxford Clothes has made tailored clothing in Chicago since 1916 and is the American maker most often compared with European bespoke for its construction: a hand-padded canvas, hand-set sleeves and a great deal of hand finishing, produced in a factory rather than a workshop.

BespokeMade-to-measureReady-to-wear
An illustration of the house's recorded cut: soft shoulder, full canvas chest, american, softly structured. Not a photograph of the house's own work.
An illustration of the house's recorded cut: soft shoulder, full canvas chest, american, softly structured. Not a photograph of the house's own work.
House style American, softly structured shoulder: soft
Chest full canvas extensive handwork
Fittings 1–3 8–20 weeks
From $4,000 lowest documented, converted

Factory handwork

Oxxford's proposition has always been that industrial organisation and hand construction are not opposites. The garments are made on a factory floor, in sequence, by specialists, and a large proportion of the operations are done by hand rather than machine. It is the closest thing the United States has produced to the Italian model of hand-finished production at volume, and it predates that model by decades.

The construction, in detail

A hand-padded canvas chest, hand-set sleeves, hand-finished linings, and buttonholes worked by hand on the upper garments. The house has made a point of this since 1916 and its marketing has rested on it for a century.

The cut is softly structured with a full chest and a natural shoulder: American, and closer to English practice than to Italian.

How it compares

Against a good Italian ready-to-wear suit, Oxxford generally offers more hand construction and a heavier, more traditional line. Against European bespoke it offers neither an individual pattern nor iterative fittings, at a fraction of the price.

The house's cut is American in the older sense: softer than English, more structured than Neapolitan, with a fuller chest and a longer coat. It suits a larger frame considerably better than most contemporary Italian cutting does.

The American full-canvas coat

Oxxford is what American tailoring produced when it decided to compete with Savile Row on construction rather than on price: full canvas, extensive hand-padding, hand-set sleeves, made in a Chicago factory to a specification that most European ready-to-wear does not meet.

The cut is the limitation for a modern buyer rather than the making. It is a generous, straight American silhouette designed around comfort and drape, and it does not resemble the close, shaped coats that dominate current taste. Judged as engineering it is among the best factory tailoring ever made.

Natural
no padding · follows the body
Soft
a thin pad · a gentle line
Spalla camicia
sleeve gathered like a shirt
Roped
sleeve head rises in a ridge
Extended
built out past the shoulder
The shoulder, five ways Right shoulder, front-on; the dashed line is the wearer’s own. Spalla camicia is the Neapolitan signature. The roped shoulder is Roman and Parisian in origin, and Cifonelli’s is the best known. The extended shoulder belongs to the sharper end of Savile Row and to the Nutters silhouette. The shoulder is where a house’s cut is most visible and hardest to fake, because it is built inside the coat. Diagram drawn for Il Sartoriale.

The record

Founded
1916
Country
Service levels
Bespoke · Made-to-measure · Ready-to-wear
Shoulder
Soft
Chest construction
Full canvas
Silhouette
American, softly structured
Handwork
Extensive
Cutting in house
Yes
Sewing in house
Yes
Made in
Chicago, Illinois
Fittings
1–3
Lead time
8–20 weeks
Ownership
— not stated by the house
Known for
American · Made In Usa
Record confidence
MediumHow much of this record rests on primary sources rather than reporting.As of September 2026
Construction
Hand-padded canvas, hand-set sleeves, extensive hand finishing
Services
Ready-to-wear, made-to-measure and bespoke

These are not quotations. Prices below are the most recent figures we could attribute to a source, shown in the currency they were published in.

WhatServicePrice TaxObservedBasis
Ready-to-wear suitAn indicative band, not a quotation. Bespoke entry prices normally exclude tax and cloth beyond the house bunch, and houses raise them without announcement. Ready To Wear $3,500–6,000 — September 2026 Estimated-Range
Il Sartoriale compilation from publicly reported figures
Bespoke prices normally exclude cloth beyond a house bunch, alterations after delivery and shipping. Confirm with the house before commissioning.

Houses often considered alongside it

Grouped because they compete for the same commission or work in a comparable idiom: not a ranking, and not an equivalence.

  1. An illustration of the house's recorded cut: soft shoulder, full canvas chest, american, moderately structured. Not a photograph of the house's own work. Martin Greenfield Clothiers New York

    Martin Greenfield Clothiers is a Brooklyn suit factory, run by a Holocaust survivor, that makes custom suits and produces for several American brands.

Last reviewed: September 2026 Prices and service details change; this page states the date each figure was observed. Report an error on this page
Picture credits 2
  1. An illustration of the house's recorded cut: soft shoulder, full canvas chest, american, softly structured. Not a photograph of the house's own work.: Original art · Il Sartoriale · Il Sartoriale · Il Sartoriale original art
  2. An illustration of the house's recorded cut: soft shoulder, full canvas chest, american, moderately structured. Not a photograph of the house's own work.: Original art · Il Sartoriale · Il Sartoriale · Il Sartoriale original art

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