Merken

Hermès is a family-controlled Paris luxury house, founded as a harness maker, known for leather bags, small goods and shoes, and it owns John Lobb Paris.

Kering is a French luxury group that owns Gucci, Saint Laurent, Balenciaga and, most relevant here, Brioni, which it bought in 2012.

LVMH is the world's largest luxury goods group, and in menswear it owns most of Loro Piana, plus Berluti and Dior, which shops rarely mention.

Brunello Cucinelli is a cashmere brand based in the Umbrian village of Solomeo, known for soft, muted, expensive clothes and its founder's "humanistic capitalism" philosophy.

Isaia is a Naples tailoring brand making soft, light jackets in bolder cloths and stronger colours than its neighbours, with a red coral lapel pin as its signature.

Corneliani is a highly capable Mantua clothing maker, working since 1958, producing clean, moderately padded tailoring under its own name and historically for other luxury labels.

Stefano Ricci is a Florence menswear brand at the very top of the price range, known for ornate pieces in crocodile, heavy silk and gold hardware.

A Japanese factory making Neapolitan-influenced tailoring better than most Italian factories do.

Drake's is a London tie maker turned full menswear brand, known for relaxed, softly made clothes in English cloth with little shoulder padding.