Vêtement · Footwear
Boots
A boot is any shoe that covers the ankle, with classic menswear styles including the elastic-sided Chelsea, the unlined chukka and the heavy country boot.
A boot covers the ankle. In classic menswear the main patterns are the Chelsea (elastic sides, no fastening), the chukka (two or three eyelets, unlined, crepe or leather sole), the jodhpur (a strap and buckle) and the country boot (heavy, storm-welted, brogued).
The main patterns
| Boot | Character |
|---|---|
| Chelsea | Elastic side gussets, pull tab, no lacing; town boot, close-fitting |
| Chukka | Two or three eyelets, unlined, often suede; the informal end |
| Jodhpur | Wrapping strap and buckle at the ankle; from riding |
| Country / brogue boot | Heavy, storm welt, thick sole, brogued; the Tricker's Stow is the archetype |
| Balmoral boot | A dress boot with closed lacing and often a contrasting upper; formal |
Why a boot fits differently
A boot grips the ankle, which changes how much the last needs to do at the heel. Chelsea boots in particular must fit closely at the ankle (the elastic is what holds them) and a Chelsea boot that is loose there will never feel secure however well it fits elsewhere.
Choosing between them
A Chelsea boot in black calf on a single sole is close to a dress shoe and works with tailoring. A chukka in suede on a crepe sole is unambiguously casual. A country brogue boot is neither and should not be asked to be.
The variable that decides is the sole, as with shoes: a thin leather sole reads formal at any height, and a commando sole reads outdoor whatever the upper looks like.
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Goodyear welting
Goodyear welting is the durable machine-stitched construction used on good English and American shoes, letting a worn sole be replaced without touching the top.
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Norwegian construction
Norwegian construction turns the shoe's leather outward and stitches it twice, leaving two visible rows of stitching that make a strong, very water-resistant shoe.
Crédits photographiques 6
- Brown leather ankle boots: Original art · Il Sartoriale · Il Sartoriale · Il Sartoriale original art
- Chelsea boot, black: Photograph · Reinthal · Wikimedia Commons · CC BY-SA 4.0
- Chelsea boot, brown suede: Photograph · Reinthal · Wikimedia Commons · CC BY-SA 4.0
- Trickers, Jermyn Street, London: Photograph · Philafrenzy · Wikimedia Commons · CC BY-SA 4.0
- A welted shoe cut in cross-section: Original art · Il Sartoriale · Il Sartoriale · Il Sartoriale original art
- A boot with a double-stitched storm welt: Original art · Il Sartoriale · Il Sartoriale · Il Sartoriale original art