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The evening pump
The evening pump is a low-cut patent leather slip-on with a flat ribbon bow, the most formal shoe there is and correct for white tie.
The evening pump is a low-cut patent leather slip-on with a flat grosgrain bow, worn with white tie and, by strict convention, with black tie. It is the most formal footwear a man can wear and is now rare enough to look eccentric outside its proper context.
Why patent
Evening dress is worn in artificial light, and patent leather reflects it in a way polished calf does not. The reasoning is the same as that behind midnight blue: evening clothes were designed for candles and gas, and their conventions still assume that light.
The alternative for black tie is a highly polished plain black oxford, which nobody will criticise. The pump is correct and increasingly rare; the oxford is safe.
The construction
A low-cut patent leather slipper, unlined or lightly lined, on a thin leather sole with almost no heel, finished with a flat grosgrain bow. Patent leather is a lacquered finish over calf and it cracks if flexed hard or stored badly.
Keep them on trees, away from heat, and expect them to last a very long time given how rarely they are worn.
Whether to bother
For white tie, the pump is correct and a polished oxford is a tolerated substitute. For black tie, the pump is correct by strict convention and reads as either impeccable or theatrical depending on the room and the wearer. The honest advice: unless white tie is a regular occurrence, a well-polished plain black oxford covers every occasion and will not be remarked upon. The pump is for someone who has decided to be interested.
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