服装 · Tailoring
The sport coat
A sport coat is a jacket worn with non-matching trousers, traditionally in textured cloth like tweed with patch pockets and a softer feel than suit jackets.
A sport coat is a tailored jacket designed to be worn with trousers of a different cloth. It came from country and sporting dress, which is why it is traditionally made in textured cloth (tweed, flannel, hopsack) with patch pockets and a softer construction than a suit jacket.
Not a suit jacket without trousers
The most common mistake in menswear is wearing an orphaned suit jacket as a sport coat. It does not work, and the reason is specific: suit cloth is smooth and flat, designed to read as one continuous surface with the trousers. Isolated, it looks like half of something.
A sport coat is cut and clothed differently. The cloth has texture and pattern; that is what allows it to stand alone. The construction is usually softer, the pockets are frequently patched, and the whole garment is designed to be seen against a contrasting trouser.
What makes one work
- Texture. Tweed, flannel, hopsack, linen, corduroy: anything with a visible surface.
- Pattern is optional; texture is not. A plain navy hopsack works; a plain navy worsted does not.
- Patch or flapped pockets read as informal; a jetted pocket reads as suit.
- Softer construction is usually right; this is not a boardroom garment.
The blazer question
A blazer is a specific kind of sport coat: navy, traditionally with metal buttons, descended from naval and rowing-club dress. The word has been diluted to mean any odd jacket, and there is no point being precious about it, but the distinction is real and occasionally useful.
The two origin stories, a rowing club's brightly coloured jacket, and the crew of HMS Blazer, are both repeated confidently and neither is well documented. This site does not choose between them.
概览
与之相关的制作商
01
手工定制裁缝 Liverano & Liverano
The house that made Florentine tailoring internationally legible: wide lapel, round chest, no dart.
02
手工定制裁缝 Cesare Attolini
Cesare Attolini is a Neapolitan clothing house run by descendants of the creator of the soft Neapolitan jacket, and it produces in volume while keeping much of the work done by…
03
手工定制裁缝 Orazio Luciano
Orazio Luciano is a Neapolitan family workshop making soft, hand-finished jackets and suits, and most people discover it through shops in Japan and the United States.
04
手工定制裁缝 Rubinacci
Rubinacci is the oldest and best-known tailoring house in Naples, founded in 1932, where the soft Neapolitan jacket without heavy padding was first created.
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图片版权 6
- A tweed sport coat on a hanger: Original art · Il Sartoriale · Il Sartoriale · Il Sartoriale original art
- An illustration of the house's recorded cut: soft shoulder, light canvas chest, rounded, wide lapel, dartless front. Not a photograph of the house's own work.: Original art · Il Sartoriale · Il Sartoriale · Il Sartoriale original art
- An illustration of the house's recorded cut: shirt shoulder, light canvas chest, soft neapolitan, high armhole. Not a photograph of the house's own work.: Original art · Il Sartoriale · Il Sartoriale · Il Sartoriale original art
- An illustration of the house's recorded cut: shirt shoulder, light canvas chest, soft neapolitan. Not a photograph of the house's own work.: Original art · Il Sartoriale · Il Sartoriale · Il Sartoriale original art
- An illustration of the house's recorded cut: natural shoulder, light canvas chest, soft, short, open quarters. Not a photograph of the house's own work.: Original art · Il Sartoriale · Il Sartoriale · Il Sartoriale original art
- A jacket front showing a half canvas: Original art · Il Sartoriale · Il Sartoriale · Il Sartoriale original art