12 条目
指南
对人们实际搜寻的问题给出直接解答：手工定制西装的价格、如何辨别做工精良的外套、向裁缝应提出哪些问题。
Guides
12 条目
01
Bespoke vs made-to-measure
Bespoke means a pattern drawn from scratch for you and corrected over fittings, while made-to-measure adjusts a standard pattern, and hand stitching is not the difference.
02
Bespoke tailoring in Naples: the houses and how to choose
Naples has the world's densest cluster of serious bespoke tailoring, nine workshops close together, all making soft, lightly padded jackets that differ in proportion and price.
03
Bespoke tailoring in London: Savile Row house by house
Savile Row's tailoring houses charge broadly similar prices but cut very different jackets, from Anderson & Sheppard's relaxed draped look to Huntsman's leaner, firmer cut.
04
How much does a bespoke suit cost?
A bespoke two-piece suit costs from roughly $4,000 in Naples or Seoul to $12,000 and up in Paris or Milan, before tax and your chosen cloth.
05
Where to have shoes made
Bespoke shoes, bought for fit rather than finish, are still made in London, Tokyo, Florence and Vienna, and a first pair takes up to a year.
06
Where the value actually is
Value in tailoring and shoes means the same quality for less, found in cheaper cities, makers without fancy shops, and altering clothes you already own.
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How to choose cloth
A suit's weight and weave decide how it feels and performs, while the Super number on the label mostly describes softness, not quality.
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How to tell a well-made jacket in ninety seconds
Six shop checks, such as buttonholes, lining, shoulder and whether patterns line up at seams, reveal how well a jacket was made.
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What to ask a tailor before you commission
Eight questions to ask a tailor before ordering tell you what you are buying, who is making it, and what happens if it goes wrong.
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Building a wardrobe, in order
This guide lists twelve clothing purchases in order, starting with the most versatile pieces so each new item works with what you already own.
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What “Made in Italy” actually means
A Made in Italy label only means the last major manufacturing step happened there, so the garment may have been cut and mostly sewn elsewhere.
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Dressing well in heat
In hot weather, an open-weave cloth and an unlined, softly built jacket keep you cooler than simply choosing the lightest fabric available.
图片版权 12
- A hand-drawn pattern beside a standard block: Original art · Il Sartoriale · Il Sartoriale · Il Sartoriale original art
- A soft Neapolitan-style linen jacket by a window: Original art · Il Sartoriale · Il Sartoriale · Il Sartoriale original art
- A structured chalk-stripe coat on a dummy: Original art · Il Sartoriale · Il Sartoriale · Il Sartoriale original art
- A finished suit in a fitting room: Original art · Il Sartoriale · Il Sartoriale · Il Sartoriale original art
- Shelves of lasts with a finished shoe: Original art · Il Sartoriale · Il Sartoriale · Il Sartoriale original art
- A jacket inside out showing its construction: Original art · Il Sartoriale · Il Sartoriale · Il Sartoriale original art
- A cloth swatch held up to the light: Original art · Il Sartoriale · Il Sartoriale · Il Sartoriale original art
- A cuff with working buttonholes: Original art · Il Sartoriale · Il Sartoriale · Il Sartoriale original art
- A fitting room with a basted jacket: Original art · Il Sartoriale · Il Sartoriale · Il Sartoriale original art
- A small, well-chosen wardrobe: Original art · Il Sartoriale · Il Sartoriale · Il Sartoriale original art
- A jacket lining with hand-felled seams: Original art · Il Sartoriale · Il Sartoriale · Il Sartoriale original art
- A linen jacket, fresco swatch and panama hat: Original art · Il Sartoriale · Il Sartoriale · Il Sartoriale original art