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生地 · Leather

Leather

Leather is treated animal hide, and how good it is depends on the animal, the layer of skin used and how it was tanned.

Leather is animal hide treated so it will not decompose. In menswear the important distinctions are the animal (calf for shoes, goat for gloves, sheep for garments), the layer used (full grain, top grain, split), and the tannage. Full-grain calf, chrome-tanned, is the standard for fine shoes.

A rolled calf hide on a tanner's bench
A rolled calf hide on a tanner's bench

Grain, and the words that hide it

TermWhat it means
Full grainThe complete outer surface, unsanded. Strongest; shows the animal's natural marks; develops patina
Top grainThe outer surface, sanded to remove blemishes, then finished. Uniform, weaker, less patina
Corrected grainHeavily sanded and embossed with an artificial grain pattern. Uniform and cheap
SplitThe layer beneath the grain. Used for suede and linings; no grain surface at all
“Genuine leather”A grade below top grain. Despite the wording, it is a low grade, not a guarantee
 The phrase “genuine leather” is the most misleading term in the trade: it denotes a low grade, not authenticity.

Which animal

Calf is the standard for fine shoes: fine, tight grain, thin enough to shape closely. Box calf is chrome-tanned calf finished to a smooth close-grained surface: the archetypal dress-shoe leather. Cordovan is not calf at all but a dense membrane from a horse's hindquarters. Kid and other goat leathers are used for gloves, being thin and elastic. Peccary, from a wild South American pig, is the premium glove leather, recognisable by the distinctive triple-pore pattern.

For soles, vegetable-tanned cow shoulder or bend, which is dense and firm and wears rather than tearing.

Care, briefly

Leather fails by drying and by cracking at flex points, so the principle is to keep it conditioned and to let it dry slowly. Shoe trees inserted while the shoe is still warm hold the shape and absorb moisture; a day off between wearings lets the lining dry; polish feeds the surface and builds a protective layer.

The single most damaging thing is heat. A wet shoe placed near a radiator will dry too fast, the fibres will shrink unevenly, and the leather will crack. Newspaper and patience, or trees and a day.

画像

ライセンス →
Leather — skin, stabilised by tanning
Scope and content: Photographer: Alexander Brothers
Leather — skin, stabilised by tanning
Industries of War - Leather - Unloading hides from car

概要

Standard for fine shoes
Full-grain calf, chrome- or combination-tanned
“Genuine leather”
A low grade, not a quality claim
Sole leather
Vegetable-tanned cow shoulder or bend
Fails by
Drying and cracking at flex points

使用者

このサイトに掲載されているハウスおよびミルで、以下と文献上の繋がりが確認されているもの Leather.

  1. Hermès at 24 rue du Faubourg-Saint-Honoré, Paris Hermès ブランド · Paris · 1837

    Hermès is a family-controlled Paris luxury house, founded as a harness maker, known for leather bags, small goods and shoes, and it owns John Lobb Paris.
  2. Horween Leather Company 生地メーカー · 1905

    Horween is a Chicago tannery, working since 1905, famous for shell cordovan and Chromexcel leathers, and rare in being named on other brands' shoes.
  3. J & FJ Baker 生地メーカー

    J & FJ Baker is England's last oak-bark tannery, slowly tanning sole leather in Devon over about a year for custom and high-end shoes.

生地メーカーと商社

全ミル →
  1. Horween Leather Company 1905

    Horween is a Chicago tannery, working since 1905, famous for shell cordovan and Chromexcel leathers, and rare in being named on other brands' shoes.
  2. J & FJ Baker

    J & FJ Baker is England's last oak-bark tannery, slowly tanning sole leather in Devon over about a year for custom and high-end shoes.

用途

A brown horsehide leather jacket 01

The leather jacket

A leather jacket's quality depends on the hide, how it was tanned and the cut, with most styles coming from military flight and motorcycle jackets.

 Black patent evening pumps with grosgrain bows 02

The evening pump

The evening pump is a low-cut patent leather slip-on with a flat ribbon bow, the most formal shoe there is and correct for white tie.

 Black velvet Albert slippers 03

The velvet slipper

The velvet slipper, or Albert slipper, is a soft indoor shoe, often embroidered on the toe, that now turns up with informal evening dress.
最終審査: September 2026 このページの誤りを報告する

関連

テクニックTanning 衣服The leather jacket 用語集の項目Box calf 小物Gloves 小物Shoe care 小物The belt 用語集の項目Clicking 生地Shell cordovan シューメーカーBerluti シューメーカーAubercy 用語集の項目Patina 用語集の項目Peccary
写真クレジット 7
  1. A rolled calf hide on a tanner's bench: Original art · Il Sartoriale · Il Sartoriale · Il Sartoriale original art
  2. Industries of War - Leather - PREPARING HIDES FOR LEATHER TREATMENT IN PLANT OF ALEXANDER BROS., Philadelphia, Pennsylvania: Photograph · Unknown author · Wikimedia Commons · Public domain
  3. Industries of War - Leather - Unloading hides from car: Photograph · Unknown author · Wikimedia Commons · Public domain
  4. Rue du Faubourg-Saint-Honoré, Paris May 2006: Photograph · Gryffindor · Wikimedia Commons · Public domain
  5. A brown horsehide leather jacket: Original art · Il Sartoriale · Il Sartoriale · Il Sartoriale original art
  6. Black patent evening pumps with grosgrain bows: Original art · Il Sartoriale · Il Sartoriale · Il Sartoriale original art
  7. Black velvet Albert slippers: Original art · Il Sartoriale · Il Sartoriale · Il Sartoriale original art

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