Сапожник · Paris · Основан 1935

Aubercy

Aubercy is a third-generation Paris shoemaker, open since 1935, whose shoes stand out for strong colour and decorative detail, sold ready-made or made to measure.

Aubercy has made shoes in Paris since 1935 and is now in its third generation. It offers ready-to-wear, made-to-order and bespoke, with a Parisian sensibility: strong colour, decorative detail and a willingness to be looked at.

BespokeMade-to-measureГотовая одежда

An illustration of a welted shoe of the kind the house makes. Not a photograph of the house's own work.

Стиль дома — плечо: не задокументировано

Грудь — substantial handwork

Примерки — 4–40 недели

От $1,300 минимальная задокументированная цена, конвертирована

A Paris house

Aubercy's ready-to-wear and made-to-order occupy the upper end of the French market, and the house's aesthetic runs to patina, unusual leathers and details that a London maker would consider excessive. That is a description, not a criticism; Paris has a different relationship to display.

Bespoke is available and made in the traditional way.

The house today

Third-generation family ownership, a shop on Rue Vivienne, and a range running from ready-to-wear through made-to-order to bespoke. The bespoke is made traditionally; the ready-to-wear is produced in France and Italy depending on the line.

The house's identity is Parisian in the way Berluti's is: colour and finish treated as legitimate subjects, and a willingness to make a shoe that is looked at.

What the house does

Ready-to-wear and made-to-order in the upper range, with a strong line in patina and unusual leathers, and a bespoke service made traditionally. Production is split between France and Italy depending on the line.

The aesthetic is distinctly Parisian: colour treated as a legitimate subject rather than a risk, and decoration used with more confidence than the English trade would consider seemly.

What to check

As with any range spanning several factories and constructions, the specification matters more than the name. Ask which construction a particular model uses and where it is made.

The house is straightforward about this when asked, which is not universal in the French market.

Ручной рант

holdfast вырезан из стельки

holdfast является частью стельки

Возможность замены подошвы: неоднократно

Рант Goodyear

ребро канваса приклеено к стельке

геммирование приклеено: именно эта часть выходит из строя

Возможность замены подошвы: несколько раз

Blake

один шов сквозь все слои

шов уходит внутрь обуви

Возможность замены подошвы: на машине Blake

На клею

подошва приклеена к верху

только на клею

Возможность замены подошвы: как правило, нет

верх стелька рант подошва

Как крепится подошва и допускает ли она замену Рант в двух левых конструкциях несёт строчку крепления подошвы, поэтому подошва снимается, не затрагивая верх. При ручном рантовом методе гребень вырезается из самой стельки; при методе Goodyear парусиновый рант приклеивается, и именно он со временем приходит в негодность. Схема составлена для Il Sartoriale.

Запись

Основан

1935

Город

Paris · Rue Vivienne

Страна

France

Service levels

Bespoke · Made-to-measure · Ready-to-wear

Плечо