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Il Sartoriale The World of Fine Menswear
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Il Sartoriale
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25 エントリー

生地と素材

服の素材：ウール、カシミア、リネン、コットン、レザーほか。各ページでは、その素材が何であるか、着用したときの振る舞い、そしてラベルに記された技術的な数値が実際に何を意味するかを平易に説明する。

Cloth

9 エントリー
Raw selvedge denim showing its edge 01

Denim

Denim is the cotton cloth of jeans, woven from blue and undyed threads, and its indigo dye sits on the surface and wears away into fades.

 Mid-grey flannel with a faint chalk stripe 02

Flannel

Flannel is wool shrunk and brushed until soft and fuzzy, making warm, matte cloth that forgives creases, and grey flannel trousers are hugely useful.

 Brown Donegal tweed with coloured flecks 03

Tweed

Tweed is a rough, flecked wool cloth from Scotland and Ireland that is warm, sheds rain and lasts for ages.

 Open-weave fresco cloth against the window 04

Fresco

Fresco is a loosely woven wool suiting of tightly twisted yarn that lets air straight through and resists creases, making it ideal for hot weather.

 Stone cotton gabardine with a steep twill 05

Gabardine

Gabardine is a tough, tightly woven wool cloth Thomas Burberry developed to shed rain, and it became the classic trench coat fabric.

 Burgundy velvet, light and dark across a fold 06

Velvet

Velvet is a fabric with a thick, soft pile that changes colour as you stroke it, mostly used for evening jackets and slippers.
  1. Olive corduroy with its wales close up Corduroy

    Corduroy is a warm, very hard-wearing cotton cloth with soft raised ridges, and fewer, wider ridges look more rustic than fine ones.
  2. A bolt of white linen on a merchant's table Irish linen

    Irish linen means linen woven and finished in Ireland, known for crisp, substantial cloth, though the flax itself is usually grown elsewhere.
  3. A loupe on fine charcoal worsted Super numbers

    A cloth's Super number, like Super 150s, measures how fine the wool fibre is, so higher means softer but more fragile, not better.

Fibre

13 エントリー
Navy worsted wool suiting, close up 01

Wool

The default fibre of tailoring, for reasons that are structural rather than traditional.

 Fine merino yarn and a square of merino worsted 02

Merino wool

One breed of sheep, bred for fineness over five centuries, supplying almost all fine suiting.

 A folded cashmere sweater with a tuft of raw fibre 03

Cashmere

The undercoat of a goat that lives somewhere very cold, combed out by hand each spring.

 Fine pale cashmere knit on a wooden hanger 04

Baby cashmere

The first combing from a young goat: finer, scarcer, softer, and not more durable.

 A length of vicuña cloth in its natural golden colour 05

Vicuña

The finest animal fibre in commercial use, from a wild Andean camelid that was nearly hunted to extinction and is now shorn alive under licence.

 A guanaco scarf in warm honey-brown 06

Guanaco

Vicuña's larger cousin, and the fibre people reach for when vicuña is out of the question.
  1. Dark alpaca coating with a long lustrous nap Alpaca

    Warm, lustrous, silky in drape and much less prone to itch than its reputation suggests.
  2. Camel-hair coating in natural tan Camel hair

    The undercoat of a Bactrian camel, collected as it falls off, and the colour of half the polo coats ever made.
  3. Midnight-blue mohair suiting with a dry sheen Mohair

    Angora goat hair: glossy, wiry, cool, and almost impossible to crease.
  4. Silk tie cloths in oxblood, green and navy Silk

    Silk is a fibre reeled from the silkworm's cocoon as one long thread, so it is smooth, strong and shiny, and used in ties and linings.
  5. Crumpled ivory linen in window light Linen

    Linen is made from the flax plant and is the coolest cloth to wear, though it creases instantly and stays creased.
  6. White oxford cotton with raw cotton bolls Cotton

    Cotton is the fibre around the cotton plant's seeds, and the longer its fibres, the smoother, stronger and less likely to pill the cloth.
  7. Very fine white cotton poplin against the light Sea Island cotton

    Sea Island is a rare cotton with some of the longest fibres of any, making exceptionally smooth, silky cloth, though the name is often used falsely.

Leather

3 エントリー
A rolled calf hide on a tanner's bench 01

Leather

Leather is treated animal hide, and how good it is depends on the animal, the layer of skin used and how it was tanned.

 The gleam of burgundy shell cordovan 02

Shell cordovan

Shell cordovan is a dense, rare shoe leather from a horse's hindquarters that ripples rather than creases and is the most sought-after there is.

 Snuff suede chukka boots with a brush 03

Suede

Suede is leather buffed to a soft, fuzzy surface, lighter and more breathable than smooth leather and tougher than its reputation if brushed and protected.
写真クレジット 25
  1. Raw selvedge denim showing its edge: Original art · Il Sartoriale · Il Sartoriale · Il Sartoriale original art
  2. Mid-grey flannel with a faint chalk stripe: Original art · Il Sartoriale · Il Sartoriale · Il Sartoriale original art
  3. Brown Donegal tweed with coloured flecks: Original art · Il Sartoriale · Il Sartoriale · Il Sartoriale original art
  4. Open-weave fresco cloth against the window: Original art · Il Sartoriale · Il Sartoriale · Il Sartoriale original art
  5. Stone cotton gabardine with a steep twill: Original art · Il Sartoriale · Il Sartoriale · Il Sartoriale original art
  6. Burgundy velvet, light and dark across a fold: Original art · Il Sartoriale · Il Sartoriale · Il Sartoriale original art
  7. Olive corduroy with its wales close up: Original art · Il Sartoriale · Il Sartoriale · Il Sartoriale original art
  8. A bolt of white linen on a merchant's table: Original art · Il Sartoriale · Il Sartoriale · Il Sartoriale original art
  9. A loupe on fine charcoal worsted: Original art · Il Sartoriale · Il Sartoriale · Il Sartoriale original art
  10. Navy worsted wool suiting, close up: Original art · Il Sartoriale · Il Sartoriale · Il Sartoriale original art
  11. Fine merino yarn and a square of merino worsted: Original art · Il Sartoriale · Il Sartoriale · Il Sartoriale original art
  12. A folded cashmere sweater with a tuft of raw fibre: Original art · Il Sartoriale · Il Sartoriale · Il Sartoriale original art
  13. Fine pale cashmere knit on a wooden hanger: Original art · Il Sartoriale · Il Sartoriale · Il Sartoriale original art
  14. A length of vicuña cloth in its natural golden colour: Original art · Il Sartoriale · Il Sartoriale · Il Sartoriale original art
  15. A guanaco scarf in warm honey-brown: Original art · Il Sartoriale · Il Sartoriale · Il Sartoriale original art
  16. Dark alpaca coating with a long lustrous nap: Original art · Il Sartoriale · Il Sartoriale · Il Sartoriale original art
  17. Camel-hair coating in natural tan: Original art · Il Sartoriale · Il Sartoriale · Il Sartoriale original art
  18. Midnight-blue mohair suiting with a dry sheen: Original art · Il Sartoriale · Il Sartoriale · Il Sartoriale original art
  19. Silk tie cloths in oxblood, green and navy: Original art · Il Sartoriale · Il Sartoriale · Il Sartoriale original art
  20. Crumpled ivory linen in window light: Original art · Il Sartoriale · Il Sartoriale · Il Sartoriale original art
  21. White oxford cotton with raw cotton bolls: Original art · Il Sartoriale · Il Sartoriale · Il Sartoriale original art
  22. Very fine white cotton poplin against the light: Original art · Il Sartoriale · Il Sartoriale · Il Sartoriale original art
  23. A rolled calf hide on a tanner's bench: Original art · Il Sartoriale · Il Sartoriale · Il Sartoriale original art
  24. The gleam of burgundy shell cordovan: Original art · Il Sartoriale · Il Sartoriale · Il Sartoriale original art
  25. Snuff suede chukka boots with a brush: Original art · Il Sartoriale · Il Sartoriale · Il Sartoriale original art

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