25 mục
Vải và vật liệu
Quần áo được làm từ gì: len, cashmere, lanh, cotton, da và các loại khác. Mỗi trang nói rõ vật liệu đó là gì, tính chất khi mặc ra sao, và những con số kỹ thuật trên nhãn thực sự có nghĩa gì.
Cloth
9 mục
01
Denim
Denim is the cotton cloth of jeans, woven from blue and undyed threads, and its indigo dye sits on the surface and wears away into fades.
02
Flannel
Flannel is wool shrunk and brushed until soft and fuzzy, making warm, matte cloth that forgives creases, and grey flannel trousers are hugely useful.
03
Tweed
Tweed is a rough, flecked wool cloth from Scotland and Ireland that is warm, sheds rain and lasts for ages.
04
Fresco
Fresco is a loosely woven wool suiting of tightly twisted yarn that lets air straight through and resists creases, making it ideal for hot weather.
05
Gabardine
Gabardine is a tough, tightly woven wool cloth Thomas Burberry developed to shed rain, and it became the classic trench coat fabric.
06
Velvet
Velvet is a fabric with a thick, soft pile that changes colour as you stroke it, mostly used for evening jackets and slippers.
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Corduroy
Corduroy is a warm, very hard-wearing cotton cloth with soft raised ridges, and fewer, wider ridges look more rustic than fine ones.
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Irish linen
Irish linen means linen woven and finished in Ireland, known for crisp, substantial cloth, though the flax itself is usually grown elsewhere.
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Super numbers
A cloth's Super number, like Super 150s, measures how fine the wool fibre is, so higher means softer but more fragile, not better.
Fibre
13 mục
01
Wool
The default fibre of tailoring, for reasons that are structural rather than traditional.
02
Merino wool
One breed of sheep, bred for fineness over five centuries, supplying almost all fine suiting.
03
Cashmere
The undercoat of a goat that lives somewhere very cold, combed out by hand each spring.
04
Baby cashmere
The first combing from a young goat: finer, scarcer, softer, and not more durable.
05
Vicuña
The finest animal fibre in commercial use, from a wild Andean camelid that was nearly hunted to extinction and is now shorn alive under licence.
06
Guanaco
Vicuña's larger cousin, and the fibre people reach for when vicuña is out of the question.
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Alpaca
Warm, lustrous, silky in drape and much less prone to itch than its reputation suggests.
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Camel hair
The undercoat of a Bactrian camel, collected as it falls off, and the colour of half the polo coats ever made.
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Mohair
Angora goat hair: glossy, wiry, cool, and almost impossible to crease.
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Silk
Silk is a fibre reeled from the silkworm's cocoon as one long thread, so it is smooth, strong and shiny, and used in ties and linings.
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Linen
Linen is made from the flax plant and is the coolest cloth to wear, though it creases instantly and stays creased.
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Cotton
Cotton is the fibre around the cotton plant's seeds, and the longer its fibres, the smoother, stronger and less likely to pill the cloth.
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Sea Island cotton
Sea Island is a rare cotton with some of the longest fibres of any, making exceptionally smooth, silky cloth, though the name is often used falsely.
Leather
3 mục
01
Leather
Leather is treated animal hide, and how good it is depends on the animal, the layer of skin used and how it was tanned.
02
Shell cordovan
Shell cordovan is a dense, rare shoe leather from a horse's hindquarters that ripples rather than creases and is the most sought-after there is.
03
Suede
Suede is leather buffed to a soft, fuzzy surface, lighter and more breathable than smooth leather and tougher than its reputation if brushed and protected.
Ghi công hình ảnh 25
- Raw selvedge denim showing its edge: Original art · Il Sartoriale · Il Sartoriale · Il Sartoriale original art
- Mid-grey flannel with a faint chalk stripe: Original art · Il Sartoriale · Il Sartoriale · Il Sartoriale original art
- Brown Donegal tweed with coloured flecks: Original art · Il Sartoriale · Il Sartoriale · Il Sartoriale original art
- Open-weave fresco cloth against the window: Original art · Il Sartoriale · Il Sartoriale · Il Sartoriale original art
- Stone cotton gabardine with a steep twill: Original art · Il Sartoriale · Il Sartoriale · Il Sartoriale original art
- Burgundy velvet, light and dark across a fold: Original art · Il Sartoriale · Il Sartoriale · Il Sartoriale original art
- Olive corduroy with its wales close up: Original art · Il Sartoriale · Il Sartoriale · Il Sartoriale original art
- A bolt of white linen on a merchant's table: Original art · Il Sartoriale · Il Sartoriale · Il Sartoriale original art
- A loupe on fine charcoal worsted: Original art · Il Sartoriale · Il Sartoriale · Il Sartoriale original art
- Navy worsted wool suiting, close up: Original art · Il Sartoriale · Il Sartoriale · Il Sartoriale original art
- Fine merino yarn and a square of merino worsted: Original art · Il Sartoriale · Il Sartoriale · Il Sartoriale original art
- A folded cashmere sweater with a tuft of raw fibre: Original art · Il Sartoriale · Il Sartoriale · Il Sartoriale original art
- Fine pale cashmere knit on a wooden hanger: Original art · Il Sartoriale · Il Sartoriale · Il Sartoriale original art
- A length of vicuña cloth in its natural golden colour: Original art · Il Sartoriale · Il Sartoriale · Il Sartoriale original art
- A guanaco scarf in warm honey-brown: Original art · Il Sartoriale · Il Sartoriale · Il Sartoriale original art
- Dark alpaca coating with a long lustrous nap: Original art · Il Sartoriale · Il Sartoriale · Il Sartoriale original art
- Camel-hair coating in natural tan: Original art · Il Sartoriale · Il Sartoriale · Il Sartoriale original art
- Midnight-blue mohair suiting with a dry sheen: Original art · Il Sartoriale · Il Sartoriale · Il Sartoriale original art
- Silk tie cloths in oxblood, green and navy: Original art · Il Sartoriale · Il Sartoriale · Il Sartoriale original art
- Crumpled ivory linen in window light: Original art · Il Sartoriale · Il Sartoriale · Il Sartoriale original art
- White oxford cotton with raw cotton bolls: Original art · Il Sartoriale · Il Sartoriale · Il Sartoriale original art
- Very fine white cotton poplin against the light: Original art · Il Sartoriale · Il Sartoriale · Il Sartoriale original art
- A rolled calf hide on a tanner's bench: Original art · Il Sartoriale · Il Sartoriale · Il Sartoriale original art
- The gleam of burgundy shell cordovan: Original art · Il Sartoriale · Il Sartoriale · Il Sartoriale original art
- Snuff suede chukka boots with a brush: Original art · Il Sartoriale · Il Sartoriale · Il Sartoriale original art