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470 entries across tailoring, shoemaking, cloth and craft Reference publication: we sell nothing and rank nobody for payment Every figure carries its source and the date it was checked

Shirtmaker · Florence

Simone Abbarchi

A Florentine shirtmaker whose prices have made him the entry point to Italian bespoke for a lot of people.

Simone Abbarchi makes shirts in Florence to individual measurements at prices well below the Neapolitan and London houses. The service is closer to a very good made-to-measure than to full bespoke, which the maker does not obscure, and it travels widely.

Made-to-measureTravels for fittings
An illustration of a shirt of the kind the house makes. Not a photograph of the house's own work.
An illustration of a shirt of the kind the house makes. Not a photograph of the house's own work.
House style — shoulder: not documented
Chest — selective handwork
Fittings 1 4–10 weeks
From $180 lowest documented, converted

Where the line is

This is a useful case for understanding the shirt trade's vocabulary. Measurements are taken individually, the shirt is made to them, adjustments follow on subsequent orders, but a paper pattern drafted from nothing and a trial shirt are not part of the standard service. That is made-to-measure at a high level, and it produces a shirt that fits most people better than anything they can buy off a shelf, for a fraction of bespoke money. Calling it what it is costs nothing and helps everyone.

How it works

Measurements are taken in person, in Florence or on the maker's travel schedule; a first shirt is made and adjustments are carried into subsequent orders. There is no trial shirt and no drafted paper pattern in the bespoke sense.

Turnaround is a few weeks and the price is a fraction of Neapolitan or London bespoke.

Why it matters as an example

This is a useful reference point for the whole shirt trade's vocabulary. What is offered here fits better than any ready-to-wear shirt and is not bespoke, and the maker says so.

A great many shops offering exactly this service call it bespoke. The accurate word costs nothing and tells the customer what they are buying.

The entry point, and why that matters

For a great many people this house is the first made-to-measure shirt they own, because the price makes the category approachable in a way that Jermyn Street and Naples do not. That is a real service: the gap between a good ready-made shirt and a shirt cut to your measurements is the largest single improvement available in menswear for the money.

The making is machine-based with hand finishing, which is what the price reflects and what it should be judged against.

The record

City
Country
Service levels
Made-to-measure
Shoulder
— not documented in a source we could verify
Chest construction
— not documented in a source we could verify
Silhouette
— not documented in a source we could verify
Handwork
Selective
Cutting in house
— not documented in a source we could verify
Sewing in house
— not documented in a source we could verify
Made in
Italy
Fittings
1
Lead time
4–10 weeks
Ownership
— not stated by the house
Known for
Made To Measure · Value
Record confidence
MediumHow much of this record rests on primary sources rather than reporting.As of September 2026
Location
Florence
Service
Individually measured; closer to high-level made-to-measure than full bespoke
Position
The entry point to Italian shirtmaking for many buyers

These are not quotations. Prices below are the most recent figures we could attribute to a source, shown in the currency they were published in.

WhatServicePrice TaxObservedBasis
Made-to-measure shirtAn indicative band, not a quotation. Bespoke entry prices normally exclude tax and cloth beyond the house bunch, and houses raise them without announcement. Made To Measure €160–260 — September 2026 Estimated-Range
Il Sartoriale compilation from publicly reported figures
Bespoke prices normally exclude cloth beyond a house bunch, alterations after delivery and shipping. Confirm with the house before commissioning.

Trunk shows let a house take orders and hold fittings away from its own workshop. Dates move; treat this as the pattern, not a calendar, and confirm with the house.

CityRoughlyHosted byChecked
LondonDocumented as travelling here for fittings. Schedules change; confirm directly with the house. — — —
New YorkDocumented as travelling here for fittings. Schedules change; confirm directly with the house. — — —

Houses often considered alongside it

Grouped because they compete for the same commission or work in a comparable idiom: not a ranking, and not an equivalence.

  1. An illustration of a shirt of the kind the house makes. Not a photograph of the house's own work. G. Inglese 1955

    G. Inglese is a family shirtmaker in the small Puglia town of Ginosa, famous worldwide through specialist shops and online for heavily hand-sewn shirts.

Last reviewed: September 2026 Prices and service details change; this page states the date each figure was observed. Report an error on this page
Picture credits 2
  1. An illustration of a shirt of the kind the house makes. Not a photograph of the house's own work.: Original art · Il Sartoriale · Il Sartoriale · Il Sartoriale original art
  2. An illustration of a shirt of the kind the house makes. Not a photograph of the house's own work.: Original art · Il Sartoriale · Il Sartoriale · Il Sartoriale original art

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