Pembuat Sepatu · Paris · Didirikan 1935

Aubercy

Aubercy is a third-generation Paris shoemaker, open since 1935, whose shoes stand out for strong colour and decorative detail, sold ready-made or made to measure.

Aubercy has made shoes in Paris since 1935 and is now in its third generation. It offers ready-to-wear, made-to-order and bespoke, with a Parisian sensibility: strong colour, decorative detail and a willingness to be looked at.

BespokeMade-to-measureReady-to-wear

An illustration of a welted shoe of the kind the house makes. Not a photograph of the house's own work.

Gaya rumah mode — bahu: tidak terdokumentasi

Dada — substantial handwork

Fitting — 4–40 minggu

Dari $1,300 terendah yang terdokumentasi, setelah konversi

A Paris house

Aubercy's ready-to-wear and made-to-order occupy the upper end of the French market, and the house's aesthetic runs to patina, unusual leathers and details that a London maker would consider excessive. That is a description, not a criticism; Paris has a different relationship to display.

Bespoke is available and made in the traditional way.

The house today

Third-generation family ownership, a shop on Rue Vivienne, and a range running from ready-to-wear through made-to-order to bespoke. The bespoke is made traditionally; the ready-to-wear is produced in France and Italy depending on the line.

The house's identity is Parisian in the way Berluti's is: colour and finish treated as legitimate subjects, and a willingness to make a shoe that is looked at.

What the house does

Ready-to-wear and made-to-order in the upper range, with a strong line in patina and unusual leathers, and a bespoke service made traditionally. Production is split between France and Italy depending on the line.

The aesthetic is distinctly Parisian: colour treated as a legitimate subject rather than a risk, and decoration used with more confidence than the English trade would consider seemly.

What to check

As with any range spanning several factories and constructions, the specification matters more than the name. Ask which construction a particular model uses and where it is made.

The house is straightforward about this when asked, which is not universal in the French market.

Hand welted

holdfast dipahat dari insole

holdfast adalah bagian dari insol

Dapat diganti solnya: berulang kali

Goodyear welted

rib canvas direkatkan ke insole

gemming direkatkan: bagian yang rentan gagal

Dapat diganti solnya: beberapa kali

Blake

satu jahitan menembus semua lapisan

jahitan masuk ke dalam sepatu

Dapat diganti solnya: dengan mesin Blake

Cemented

sol direkatkan ke upper

perekat saja

Dapat diganti solnya: umumnya tidak

upper insole welt outsole

Bagaimana sol ditempelkan, dan apakah dapat diganti Welt pada dua konstruksi di sebelah kiri menopang jahitan sol, sehingga sol dapat dilepas tanpa mengganggu upper. Pengelasan tangan memotong alurnya dari insol itu sendiri; Goodyear merekatkan rusuk kanvas, dan rusuk itulah yang pada akhirnya akan gagal. Diagram dibuat untuk Il Sartoriale.

Rekam jejak

Didirikan

1935

Kota

Paris · Rue Vivienne

Negara

France

Service levels

Bespoke · Made-to-measure · Ready-to-wear

Bahu