Schoenmaker · Paris · Opgericht 1935

Aubercy

Aubercy is a third-generation Paris shoemaker, open since 1935, whose shoes stand out for strong colour and decorative detail, sold ready-made or made to measure.

Aubercy has made shoes in Paris since 1935 and is now in its third generation. It offers ready-to-wear, made-to-order and bespoke, with a Parisian sensibility: strong colour, decorative detail and a willingness to be looked at.

BespokeMade-to-measureConfectie

An illustration of a welted shoe of the kind the house makes. Not a photograph of the house's own work.

Huisstijl — schouder: niet gedocumenteerd

Borstomvang — substantial handwork

Pasingen — 4–40 weken

Van $1,300 laagste gedocumenteerde, omgerekend

A Paris house

Aubercy's ready-to-wear and made-to-order occupy the upper end of the French market, and the house's aesthetic runs to patina, unusual leathers and details that a London maker would consider excessive. That is a description, not a criticism; Paris has a different relationship to display.

Bespoke is available and made in the traditional way.

The house today

Third-generation family ownership, a shop on Rue Vivienne, and a range running from ready-to-wear through made-to-order to bespoke. The bespoke is made traditionally; the ready-to-wear is produced in France and Italy depending on the line.

The house's identity is Parisian in the way Berluti's is: colour and finish treated as legitimate subjects, and a willingness to make a shoe that is looked at.

What the house does

Ready-to-wear and made-to-order in the upper range, with a strong line in patina and unusual leathers, and a bespoke service made traditionally. Production is split between France and Italy depending on the line.

The aesthetic is distinctly Parisian: colour treated as a legitimate subject rather than a risk, and decoration used with more confidence than the English trade would consider seemly.

What to check

As with any range spanning several factories and constructions, the specification matters more than the name. Ask which construction a particular model uses and where it is made.

The house is straightforward about this when asked, which is not universal in the French market.

Met de hand gerande

houdrand uitgesneden uit de binnenzool

de holdfast maakt deel uit van de binnenzool

Herbezoelbaar: herhaaldelijk

Goodyear-gerande

canvasrib gelijmd aan de binnenzool

gemming is gelijmd: het onderdeel dat het begeft

Herbezoelbaar: meerdere malen

Blake

één naad door alle lagen

de naad loopt door in de schoen

Herbezoelbaar: met een Blake-machine

Gelijmd

zool gelijmd aan het bovenwerk

uitsluitend gelijmd

Herbezoelbaar: doorgaans niet

bovenwerk binnenzool rand buitenzool

Hoe een zool wordt bevestigd, en of hij vervangen kan worden De welt in de twee linker constructies draagt het zoolstiksel, zodat de zool kan worden verwijderd zonder het bovenwerk te verstoren. Bij handwelting wordt de rand uit de binnenzool zelf gesneden; Goodyear lijmt een canvasrib aan, en die rib is het onderdeel dat uiteindelijk het begeeft. Diagram getekend voor Il Sartoriale.

Het dossier

Opgericht

1935

Stad

Paris · Rue Vivienne

Land

France

Service levels

Bespoke · Made-to-measure · Ready-to-wear

Schouder