Sapateiro · Paris · Fundada 1935

Aubercy

Aubercy is a third-generation Paris shoemaker, open since 1935, whose shoes stand out for strong colour and decorative detail, sold ready-made or made to measure.

Aubercy has made shoes in Paris since 1935 and is now in its third generation. It offers ready-to-wear, made-to-order and bespoke, with a Parisian sensibility: strong colour, decorative detail and a willingness to be looked at.

BespokeFeito por medidaPronto a vestir

An illustration of a welted shoe of the kind the house makes. Not a photograph of the house's own work.

Estilo da casa — ombro: não documentado

Peito — substantial handwork

Provas — 4–40 semanas

De $1,300 mínimo documentado, convertido

A Paris house

Aubercy's ready-to-wear and made-to-order occupy the upper end of the French market, and the house's aesthetic runs to patina, unusual leathers and details that a London maker would consider excessive. That is a description, not a criticism; Paris has a different relationship to display.

Bespoke is available and made in the traditional way.

The house today

Third-generation family ownership, a shop on Rue Vivienne, and a range running from ready-to-wear through made-to-order to bespoke. The bespoke is made traditionally; the ready-to-wear is produced in France and Italy depending on the line.

The house's identity is Parisian in the way Berluti's is: colour and finish treated as legitimate subjects, and a willingness to make a shoe that is looked at.

What the house does

Ready-to-wear and made-to-order in the upper range, with a strong line in patina and unusual leathers, and a bespoke service made traditionally. Production is split between France and Italy depending on the line.

The aesthetic is distinctly Parisian: colour treated as a legitimate subject rather than a risk, and decoration used with more confidence than the English trade would consider seemly.

What to check

As with any range spanning several factories and constructions, the specification matters more than the name. Ask which construction a particular model uses and where it is made.

The house is straightforward about this when asked, which is not universal in the French market.

Welt costurado à mão

holdfast talhado na palmilha

o holdfast faz parte da palmilha

Ressoleável: repetidamente

Goodyear welted

nervura de entretela colada à palmilha

a gemming está colada: é a parte que falha

Ressoleável: várias vezes

Blake

uma costura por tudo

a costura penetra no sapato

Ressoleável: com uma máquina Blake

Cimentado

sola colada à gáspea

apenas adesivo

Ressoleável: geralmente não

gáspea palmilha welt sola

Como uma sola é fixada e se pode ser substituída O welt nas duas construções da esquerda suporta a costura da sola, pelo que a sola se separa sem perturbar o upper. A costura welt à mão recorta a sua crista da própria palmilha; a Goodyear cola uma nervura de canvas, e é essa nervura que acaba por ceder. Diagrama elaborado para Il Sartoriale.

O registo

Fundada

1935

Cidade

Paris · Rue Vivienne

País

France

Service levels

Bespoke · Made-to-measure · Ready-to-wear

Ombro