Pembuat Sepatu · London · Didirikan 2006

Gaziano & Girling

Gaziano & Girling is a shoemaker, founded in 2006, whose off-the-shelf shoes have unusually shapely, hand-polished finishing that raised standards for factory shoes.

Gaziano & Girling was founded in 2006 by Tony Gaziano and Dean Girling, both from the English shoemaking trade. It makes bespoke and a ready-to-wear line whose finishing (sculpted waists, beveled edges, hand-burnished patina) set a new standard for factory-made shoes.

BespokeMade-to-measureReady-to-wearMelakukan perjalanan untuk fitting

An illustration of a welted shoe of the kind the house makes. Not a photograph of the house's own work.

Gaya rumah mode — bahu: tidak terdokumentasi

Dada — extensive handwork

Fitting 2–3 24–52 minggu

Dari $7,000 terendah yang terdokumentasi, setelah konversi

Finishing as the product

The founders came from the making and the lasting sides of the trade respectively, and the house's identity is in finish: a closely sculpted waist, a fiddleback sole, a beveled edge, and colouring applied by hand in layers.

The consequential thing they did was apply that finishing to ready-to-wear. Before Gaziano & Girling, the visual language of bespoke shoemaking essentially did not exist below bespoke prices; a great deal of what the upper ready-to-wear market now looks like follows from this house.

The ready-to-wear range

Made in Kettering, Goodyear-welted, on the house's own lasts (the TG73, the DG70 and others) with the closely trimmed waists and hand-finished edges that distinguish the house. Deco and hand-painted patina finishes are offered.

It sits at the top of the English ready-to-wear market on price and competes with Edward Green, from which it differs mainly in being more sculpted and less restrained.

Why the finishing matters structurally

A closely sculpted waist is not only decorative. Trimming the sole close and bevelling the edge under the arch means less material between the foot and the ground where the foot does not need support, and a shoe that flexes where it should. It also requires the welt to be stitched much closer to the upper, which is difficult.

The fiddleback, a raised spine along the underside of the waist, is the same idea taken further, and is one of the few pieces of shoemaking ornament that follows from the construction rather than being applied to it.

Hand welted

holdfast dipahat dari insole

holdfast adalah bagian dari insol

Dapat diganti solnya: berulang kali

Goodyear welted

rib canvas direkatkan ke insole

gemming direkatkan: bagian yang rentan gagal

Dapat diganti solnya: beberapa kali

Blake

satu jahitan menembus semua lapisan

jahitan masuk ke dalam sepatu

Dapat diganti solnya: dengan mesin Blake

Cemented

sol direkatkan ke upper

perekat saja

Dapat diganti solnya: umumnya tidak

upper insole welt outsole

Bagaimana sol ditempelkan, dan apakah dapat diganti Welt pada dua konstruksi di sebelah kiri menopang jahitan sol, sehingga sol dapat dilepas tanpa mengganggu upper. Pengelasan tangan memotong alurnya dari insol itu sendiri; Goodyear merekatkan rusuk kanvas, dan rusuk itulah yang pada akhirnya akan gagal. Diagram dibuat untuk Il Sartoriale.

Rekam jejak

Didirikan

2006

Kota

London · Savile Row and Kettering

Negara

United Kingdom

Service levels

Bespoke · Made-to-measure · Ready-to-wear

Bahu