Schoenmaker · London · Opgericht 2006

Gaziano & Girling

Gaziano & Girling is a shoemaker, founded in 2006, whose off-the-shelf shoes have unusually shapely, hand-polished finishing that raised standards for factory shoes.

Gaziano & Girling was founded in 2006 by Tony Gaziano and Dean Girling, both from the English shoemaking trade. It makes bespoke and a ready-to-wear line whose finishing (sculpted waists, beveled edges, hand-burnished patina) set a new standard for factory-made shoes.

BespokeMade-to-measureConfectieReist voor pasbeurt

An illustration of a welted shoe of the kind the house makes. Not a photograph of the house's own work.

Huisstijl — schouder: niet gedocumenteerd

Borstomvang — extensive handwork

Pasingen 2–3 24–52 weken

Van $7,000 laagste gedocumenteerde, omgerekend

Finishing as the product

The founders came from the making and the lasting sides of the trade respectively, and the house's identity is in finish: a closely sculpted waist, a fiddleback sole, a beveled edge, and colouring applied by hand in layers.

The consequential thing they did was apply that finishing to ready-to-wear. Before Gaziano & Girling, the visual language of bespoke shoemaking essentially did not exist below bespoke prices; a great deal of what the upper ready-to-wear market now looks like follows from this house.

The ready-to-wear range

Made in Kettering, Goodyear-welted, on the house's own lasts (the TG73, the DG70 and others) with the closely trimmed waists and hand-finished edges that distinguish the house. Deco and hand-painted patina finishes are offered.

It sits at the top of the English ready-to-wear market on price and competes with Edward Green, from which it differs mainly in being more sculpted and less restrained.

Why the finishing matters structurally

A closely sculpted waist is not only decorative. Trimming the sole close and bevelling the edge under the arch means less material between the foot and the ground where the foot does not need support, and a shoe that flexes where it should. It also requires the welt to be stitched much closer to the upper, which is difficult.

The fiddleback, a raised spine along the underside of the waist, is the same idea taken further, and is one of the few pieces of shoemaking ornament that follows from the construction rather than being applied to it.

Met de hand gerande

houdrand uitgesneden uit de binnenzool

de holdfast maakt deel uit van de binnenzool

Herbezoelbaar: herhaaldelijk

Goodyear-gerande

canvasrib gelijmd aan de binnenzool

gemming is gelijmd: het onderdeel dat het begeft

Herbezoelbaar: meerdere malen

Blake

één naad door alle lagen

de naad loopt door in de schoen

Herbezoelbaar: met een Blake-machine

Gelijmd

zool gelijmd aan het bovenwerk

uitsluitend gelijmd

Herbezoelbaar: doorgaans niet

bovenwerk binnenzool rand buitenzool

Hoe een zool wordt bevestigd, en of hij vervangen kan worden De welt in de twee linker constructies draagt het zoolstiksel, zodat de zool kan worden verwijderd zonder het bovenwerk te verstoren. Bij handwelting wordt de rand uit de binnenzool zelf gesneden; Goodyear lijmt een canvasrib aan, en die rib is het onderdeel dat uiteindelijk het begeeft. Diagram getekend voor Il Sartoriale.

Het dossier

Opgericht

2006

Stad

London · Savile Row and Kettering

Land

United Kingdom

Service levels

Bespoke · Made-to-measure · Ready-to-wear

Schouder