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테일러링 스타일 · United Kingdom

Savile Row

Savile Row jackets are shaped by hand around a horsehair and wool inner layer, giving defined shoulders, a nipped waist and an upright look for decades.

The English style builds a jacket around a hand-shaped canvas of horsehair and wool. The shoulder is defined, the chest is full and clean, the waist is suppressed and the skirt is long. It makes a man look upright and substantial, it takes about fifty hours of hand labour, and it lasts for decades.

A structured English-cut coat on a dummy
A structured English-cut coat on a dummy

Structure as the method

Between the cloth and the lining of an English coat sits a canvas (horsehair, wool and linen) that has been shaped by hand. Rows of pad stitching, thousands of them, curl the canvas into a permanent chest and roll the lapel. Nothing is glued. The result is a garment with an internal skeleton, which is why an English coat can impose a shape rather than merely follow one, and why it survives being worn, pressed and altered for thirty years.

Everything else follows. The shoulder is defined because a structure exists to define it. Cloth is heavier because heavier cloth takes and holds a press. The skirt is longer and the waist marked, because the whole silhouette is designed to be seen standing up in a room.

Drape and its opposite

The Row is not one style. The most consequential division runs between drape and clean-cut.

The drape cut, associated with Frederick Scholte, who tailored for the Duke of Windsor, and carried on by Anderson & Sheppard, leaves a little extra cloth over the chest and shoulder blades, so the coat hangs with a soft vertical fullness and moves with the wearer. It flatters a thin man by suggesting a larger chest, and it is comfortable in a way structured tailoring often is not.

The clean cut (Huntsman is the standard example) does the opposite: close to the body, lean through the chest, waist high and marked, frequently a single button. It reads as sharp and slightly severe, and it is less forgiving of a figure that is not already good.

How the work is divided

A London house separates cutting from making. The cutter measures the customer, drafts a paper pattern for him alone, cuts the cloth, and runs the fittings; the coat then goes to a coatmaker, the trousers to a trouser maker, the waistcoat to another specialist. Traditionally these makers are paid by the piece and work off-premises, often at home.

This is why the cutter's name matters more than the house's, why houses are so protective of their cutters, and why the trade's crisis is a shortage of makers rather than of customers. It is also why fittings are the product: a bespoke garment is not defined by handwork alone but by the fact that it is made, looked at on the body, taken apart and made again.

내추럴
패딩 없음 · 신체 선을 따름
소프트
얇은 패드 · 부드러운 라인
Spalla camicia
셔츠처럼 개더를 잡은 소매
로프드
소매 헤드가 능선처럼 솟아오름
익스텐디드
어깨선 너머로 덧댐
숄더, 다섯 가지 방식 Right shoulder, front-on; the dashed line is the wearer’s own. Spalla camicia is the Neapolitan signature. The roped shoulder is Roman and Parisian in origin, and Cifonelli’s is the best known. The extended shoulder belongs to the sharper end of Savile Row and to the Nutters silhouette. The shoulder is where a house’s cut is most visible and hardest to fake, because it is built inside the coat. 도판은 Il Sartoriale를 위해 제작되었습니다.

이미지

라이선스 →
Savile Row
Tailor Richard Anderson in Savile Row.

한눈에 보기

숄더
Defined, usually lightly padded; sleeve head often roped
가슴둘레
Full horsehair canvas, hand pad-stitched
허리
Suppressed; longer skirt than Italian equivalents
Labour
Roughly 50 hours of hand work for a coatWidely cited by the houses themselves; varies by house and garment.
Trade body
Savile Row Bespoke Association (voluntary)
도시
London
국가
United Kingdom

이 전통 안에서 작업하는 하우스

An illustration of the house's recorded cut: natural shoulder, full canvas chest, drape: soft, full chest, long skirt. Not a photograph of the house's own work. 01

Anderson & Sheppard

Anderson & Sheppard, the softest Savile Row tailor, cuts jackets with extra cloth across the chest so they hang softly and move with you.

 An illustration of the house's recorded cut: roped shoulder, full canvas chest, strongly shaped, high waist, distinctive lapel. Not a photograph of the house's own work. 02

Chittleborough & Morgan

The other inheritors of Nutters, cutting a coat with more shape than almost anyone.

 An illustration of the house's recorded cut: roped shoulder, full canvas chest, structured english, military bearing. Not a photograph of the house's own work. 03

Dege & Skinner

Dege & Skinner is a family-owned Savile Row tailor known for military and ceremonial uniforms, and rare in making custom shirts in the same building.

 An illustration of the house's recorded cut: roped shoulder, full canvas chest, structured english. Not a photograph of the house's own work. 04

Gieves & Hawkes

Gieves & Hawkes, at 1 Savile Row, is a tailor born from two old military firms, known for uniforms, royal warrants and firmly built English jackets.

 An illustration of the house's recorded cut: soft shoulder, full canvas chest, balanced english; moderate shoulder, natural waist. Not a photograph of the house's own work. 05

Henry Poole & Co

Henry Poole & Co is Savile Row's oldest tailor and made the Prince of Wales's 1865 evening jacket that led to the dinner jacket and tuxedo.

 An illustration of the house's recorded cut: roped shoulder, full canvas chest, lean, high-waisted, single button. Not a photograph of the house's own work. 06

Huntsman

Huntsman, Savile Row's sharpest tailor, makes lean jackets with strong shoulders, a high nipped waist and usually one button, rooted in riding clothes.
  1. An illustration of the house's recorded cut: roped shoulder, full canvas chest, lean, structured, clean chest. Not a photograph of the house's own work. Richard Anderson London · 2001

    Huntsman-trained cutters who opened their own door on the Row in 2001.
  2. An illustration of the house's recorded cut: roped shoulder, full canvas chest, wide peaked lapel, nipped waist, flared skirt. Not a photograph of the house's own work. Edward Sexton London

    Edward Sexton is the house of the tailor who shook up Savile Row in 1969, still making bold jackets with huge lapels, strong shoulders, nipped waists.
  3. An illustration of the house's recorded cut: natural shoulder, full canvas chest, drape: soft, full chest. Not a photograph of the house's own work. Steven Hitchcock London

    The drape cut, carried on outside Anderson & Sheppard by a tailor who grew up in it.
  4. An illustration of the house's recorded cut: soft shoulder, full canvas chest, soft english, close and contemporary. Not a photograph of the house's own work. Thom Sweeney London

    A younger London house cutting a softer, more Italian-inflected English coat.
  5. An illustration of the house's recorded cut: soft shoulder, full canvas chest, english. Not a photograph of the house's own work. Whitcomb & Shaftesbury London

    A London house that says out loud what several others do quietly: some of the making happens in India.

제작 방식

전체 기법 →
A jacket front showing its full canvas 01

Full canvas construction

A hand-shaped skeleton of horsehair and wool, sewn (never glued) between cloth and lining.

 Rows of pad stitches on a lapel canvas 02

Pad stitching

Thousands of small diagonal stitches that curl flat cloth into a permanent three-dimensional shape.

 A roped shoulder with a raised sleeve head 03

The roped shoulder

The sleeve head lifted slightly proud of the shoulder line: the opposite decision to the Neapolitan one.

 A cutting room with pattern, basted jacket and ledger 04

How a bespoke commission works

A bespoke commission takes four to six months of measuring, a pattern made just for you, and repeated fittings, which are what you are paying for.
최종 검토: September 2026 이 페이지의 오류 신고

출처

  1. Savile Row Bespoke Association standards , Savile Row Bespoke Association.

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관련

가이드Bespoke tailoring in London: Savile Row house by house 기법Full canvas construction 역사How Savile Row happened 도시London 국가United Kingdom 기법Pad stitching 용어 해설Cutter 용어 해설Drape cut 장인Edward Sexton 역사적 인물Tommy Nutter 역사적 인물Frederick Scholte 테일러링 스타일Neapolitan tailoring
사진 크레딧 17
  1. A structured English-cut coat on a dummy: Original art · Il Sartoriale · Il Sartoriale · Il Sartoriale original art
  2. Richard Anderson 2017: Photograph · Toxophilus · Wikimedia Commons · CC BY-SA 4.0
  3. An illustration of the house's recorded cut: natural shoulder, full canvas chest, drape: soft, full chest, long skirt. Not a photograph of the house's own work.: Original art · Il Sartoriale · Il Sartoriale · Il Sartoriale original art
  4. An illustration of the house's recorded cut: roped shoulder, full canvas chest, strongly shaped, high waist, distinctive lapel. Not a photograph of the house's own work.: Original art · Il Sartoriale · Il Sartoriale · Il Sartoriale original art
  5. An illustration of the house's recorded cut: roped shoulder, full canvas chest, structured english, military bearing. Not a photograph of the house's own work.: Original art · Il Sartoriale · Il Sartoriale · Il Sartoriale original art
  6. An illustration of the house's recorded cut: roped shoulder, full canvas chest, structured english. Not a photograph of the house's own work.: Original art · Il Sartoriale · Il Sartoriale · Il Sartoriale original art
  7. An illustration of the house's recorded cut: soft shoulder, full canvas chest, balanced english; moderate shoulder, natural waist. Not a photograph of the house's own work.: Original art · Il Sartoriale · Il Sartoriale · Il Sartoriale original art
  8. An illustration of the house's recorded cut: roped shoulder, full canvas chest, lean, high-waisted, single button. Not a photograph of the house's own work.: Original art · Il Sartoriale · Il Sartoriale · Il Sartoriale original art
  9. An illustration of the house's recorded cut: roped shoulder, full canvas chest, lean, structured, clean chest. Not a photograph of the house's own work.: Original art · Il Sartoriale · Il Sartoriale · Il Sartoriale original art
  10. An illustration of the house's recorded cut: roped shoulder, full canvas chest, wide peaked lapel, nipped waist, flared skirt. Not a photograph of the house's own work.: Original art · Il Sartoriale · Il Sartoriale · Il Sartoriale original art
  11. An illustration of the house's recorded cut: natural shoulder, full canvas chest, drape: soft, full chest. Not a photograph of the house's own work.: Original art · Il Sartoriale · Il Sartoriale · Il Sartoriale original art
  12. An illustration of the house's recorded cut: soft shoulder, full canvas chest, soft english, close and contemporary. Not a photograph of the house's own work.: Original art · Il Sartoriale · Il Sartoriale · Il Sartoriale original art
  13. An illustration of the house's recorded cut: soft shoulder, full canvas chest, english. Not a photograph of the house's own work.: Original art · Il Sartoriale · Il Sartoriale · Il Sartoriale original art
  14. A jacket front showing its full canvas: Original art · Il Sartoriale · Il Sartoriale · Il Sartoriale original art
  15. Rows of pad stitches on a lapel canvas: Original art · Il Sartoriale · Il Sartoriale · Il Sartoriale original art
  16. A roped shoulder with a raised sleeve head: Original art · Il Sartoriale · Il Sartoriale · Il Sartoriale original art
  17. A cutting room with pattern, basted jacket and ledger: Original art · Il Sartoriale · Il Sartoriale · Il Sartoriale original art

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