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470 entries across tailoring, shoemaking, cloth and craft Reference publication: we sell nothing and rank nobody for payment Every figure carries its source and the date it was checked

Bespoke tailor · Paris · Founded 1959

Camps de Luca

Camps de Luca is a Paris tailor known for fine hand sewing and a signature lapel where collar and lapel meet in a mouth-like notch.

Camps de Luca is the second of the two defining Parisian bespoke houses. Founded by a Spanish cutter and an Italian tailor, it is known for exceptional hand finishing and for the fishmouth lapel notch (a notch cut so the collar and lapel interlock like a mouth), which is its signature.

BespokeTravels for fittings
An illustration of the house's recorded cut: roped shoulder, full canvas chest, sharp, strongly built shoulder, defined waist. Not a photograph of the house's own work.
An illustration of the house's recorded cut: roped shoulder, full canvas chest, sharp, strongly built shoulder, defined waist. Not a photograph of the house's own work.
House style Sharp, strongly built shoulder, defined waist shoulder: roped
Chest full canvas extensive handwork
Fittings 3–5 16–40 weeks
From $12,000 lowest documented, converted

Finishing above everything

Camps de Luca's reputation rests on how much is done by hand and how well: the house is repeatedly cited by tailors as the standard for finishing, including in places nobody will ever look.

The fishmouth notch is the visible signature. It is technically difficult (the two edges must interlock exactly), and it is the kind of detail that exists to prove a workshop can do it.

The finishing, specifically

Hand-worked buttonholes throughout, a hand-attached collar, hand-set sleeves, hand-finished internal seams and pockets, and a fishmouth lapel notch cut so the collar and lapel interlock precisely. Very little of the coat is machine-sewn.

The fishmouth is the identifying detail and is genuinely difficult: the two edges must meet exactly along a curved line, and any error is on the most visible part of the garment.

The silhouette

Sharper and slightly more angular than Cifonelli, with a strongly built shoulder and a very defined waist. The two houses are frequently discussed together and the difference is real: Cifonelli rounds, Camps de Luca cuts.

Against Cifonelli

The two Parisian houses are constantly compared and the difference is one of temperament. Cifonelli rounds and sculpts: the shoulder rolls, the line curves. Camps de Luca cuts sharper: a more angular shoulder, a more defined waist, a coat with edges.

Both are at the top of the European price range and both require a long wait. A customer should look at finished coats from each before choosing, because the decision is aesthetic rather than technical.

Natural
no padding · follows the body
Soft
a thin pad · a gentle line
Spalla camicia
sleeve gathered like a shirt
Roped
sleeve head rises in a ridge
Extended
built out past the shoulder
The shoulder, five ways Right shoulder, front-on; the dashed line is the wearer’s own. Spalla camicia is the Neapolitan signature. The roped shoulder is Roman and Parisian in origin, and Cifonelli’s is the best known. The extended shoulder belongs to the sharper end of Savile Row and to the Nutters silhouette. The shoulder is where a house’s cut is most visible and hardest to fake, because it is built inside the coat. Diagram drawn for Il Sartoriale.

The record

Founded
1959Joseph Camps and Mario de Luca established the house in Paris; Camps had been cutting in Paris since the 1930s.
City
Paris · Place de la Madeleine
Country
Service levels
Bespoke
Shoulder
Roped
Chest construction
Full canvas
Silhouette
Sharp, strongly built shoulder, defined waist
Handwork
Extensive
Cutting in house
Yes
Sewing in house
Yes
Made in
Paris
Fittings
3–5
Lead time
16–40 weeks
Ownership
— not stated by the house
Known for
Parisian · Hand Finishing · Bespoke Only
Record confidence
HighHow much of this record rests on primary sources rather than reporting.As of September 2026
Founders
Joseph Camps (Spanish) and Mario de Luca (Italian)
Signature
The fishmouth lapel notch
Known for
Hand finishing carried further than almost anywhere
Tradition

These are not quotations. Prices below are the most recent figures we could attribute to a source, shown in the currency they were published in.

WhatServicePrice TaxObservedBasis
Two-piece bespoke suitAn indicative band, not a quotation. Bespoke entry prices normally exclude tax and cloth beyond the house bunch, and houses raise them without announcement. Bespoke €11,000–17,000 excludes VAT September 2026 Estimated-Range
Il Sartoriale compilation from publicly reported figures
Bespoke prices normally exclude cloth beyond a house bunch, alterations after delivery and shipping. Confirm with the house before commissioning.

Trunk shows let a house take orders and hold fittings away from its own workshop. Dates move; treat this as the pattern, not a calendar, and confirm with the house.

CityRoughlyHosted byChecked
New YorkDocumented as travelling here for fittings. Schedules change; confirm directly with the house. — — —
TokyoDocumented as travelling here for fittings. Schedules change; confirm directly with the house. — — —

Houses often considered alongside it

Grouped because they compete for the same commission or work in a comparable idiom: not a ranking, and not an equivalence.

  1. An illustration of the house's recorded cut: roped shoulder, full canvas chest, sculpted shoulder, very clean close chest, high waist. Not a photograph of the house's own work. Cifonelli Paris · 1880

    Cifonelli is a Paris tailoring firm, founded by a Roman family in the 1920s, famous for a padded, rounded shoulder and a very close-fitting chest.

Last reviewed: September 2026 Prices and service details change; this page states the date each figure was observed. Report an error on this page
Picture credits 2
  1. An illustration of the house's recorded cut: roped shoulder, full canvas chest, sharp, strongly built shoulder, defined waist. Not a photograph of the house's own work.: Original art · Il Sartoriale · Il Sartoriale · Il Sartoriale original art
  2. An illustration of the house's recorded cut: roped shoulder, full canvas chest, sculpted shoulder, very clean close chest, high waist. Not a photograph of the house's own work.: Original art · Il Sartoriale · Il Sartoriale · Il Sartoriale original art

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