手工定制裁缝 · London · 创立于 1849
Huntsman
Huntsman, Savile Row's sharpest tailor, makes lean jackets with strong shoulders, a high nipped waist and usually one button, rooted in riding clothes.
Huntsman cuts the most structured and most immediately recognisable silhouette on Savile Row: a close, lean coat with a strong shoulder, a high marked waist and, characteristically, a single button. Its origins are in riding and sporting dress, and the military bearing of the cut comes directly from that.
The one-button coat
Huntsman's house style is a single-breasted coat fastening on one button set at the natural waist, with a strong shoulder, a clean chest and a close fit through the body. The single button pulls the eye to the waist and lengthens the line; it also leaves nowhere for a poorly cut chest to hide.
The house began as a sporting and equestrian tailor (the riding coat is the ancestor of the shape), and the upright, slightly military bearing of a Huntsman coat is a direct inheritance.
Tweeds
Huntsman holds a large archive of house tweeds and estate checks, and country tailoring remains a real part of the business rather than a heritage gesture. The house also produced one of the most copied cloths in menswear, the Huntsman tweed used in the film Kingsman, which brought the house a wave of attention it has been living with since.
The comparison that matters
Huntsman against Anderson & Sheppard is the clearest choice on the Row, because the two houses answer the same question in opposite ways. A&S drapes cloth over the body and lets it move; Huntsman cuts close and imposes a line. Neither is more correct, and a customer who does not know which he wants should look at finished coats from both before booking anything.
An unforgiving cut
The corollary of that silhouette is rarely stated: there is very little ease anywhere in the coat, the armhole is high and small, and the fit has to be right because the line shows everything. A Huntsman coat that is slightly wrong looks wrong in a way a softer coat does not.
Buyers who put comfort first consistently find it severe, and they are not misjudging it. It is a coat that asks the wearer to meet it halfway, and the house has never pretended otherwise.
记录档案
价格参考
全站价格 →以下内容并非报价。所列价格为我们能够溯源的最新数据,以原始发布货币显示。
| 什么 | 服务 | 价格 | 实测 |
|---|---|---|---|
| Two-piece bespoke suitAn indicative band, not a quotation. Bespoke entry prices normally exclude tax and cloth beyond the house bunch, and houses raise them without announcement. | 全定制 | £6,800–10,000 | September 2026 |
游历地区
寻找提供上门试衣的制作商 →Trunk show让商号得以在本身工坊以外的地点接受委托并安排试样。日期时有变动;此处呈现的是规律,而非日历,请向商号确认。
| 城市 | 大约 | 格纹 |
|---|---|---|
| New YorkDocumented as travelling here for fittings. Schedules change; confirm directly with the house. | — | — |
常与之并列参考的工坊
归为一组,因为它们争取相同的委托订单或在相近的风格体系内工作:并非排名,亦非等同。
01
Anderson & Sheppard
Anderson & Sheppard, the softest Savile Row tailor, cuts jackets with extra cloth across the chest so they hang softly and move with you.
02
Richard Anderson
Huntsman-trained cutters who opened their own door on the Row in 2001.
03
Cifonelli
Cifonelli is a Paris tailoring firm, founded by a Roman family in the 1920s, famous for a padded, rounded shoulder and a very close-fitting chest.
04
Edward Sexton
Edward Sexton is the house of the tailor who shook up Savile Row in 1969, still making bold jackets with huge lapels, strong shoulders, nipped waists.
05
Henry Poole & Co
Henry Poole & Co is Savile Row's oldest tailor and made the Prince of Wales's 1865 evening jacket that led to the dinner jacket and tuxedo.
06
A. Caraceni
A. Caraceni is a Milan tailoring house, one of several family firms sharing the Caraceni name, making clean, firmly built jackets among Italy's most expensive.
并排对照
参考资料
- House information , Huntsman.
若某项数据存在争议,或工坊未予公开,本页将如实说明,而非擅自采用某一数字。
图片版权 7
- An illustration of the house's recorded cut: roped shoulder, full canvas chest, lean, high-waisted, single button. Not a photograph of the house's own work.: Original art · Il Sartoriale · Il Sartoriale · Il Sartoriale original art
- An illustration of the house's recorded cut: natural shoulder, full canvas chest, drape: soft, full chest, long skirt. Not a photograph of the house's own work.: Original art · Il Sartoriale · Il Sartoriale · Il Sartoriale original art
- An illustration of the house's recorded cut: roped shoulder, full canvas chest, lean, structured, clean chest. Not a photograph of the house's own work.: Original art · Il Sartoriale · Il Sartoriale · Il Sartoriale original art
- An illustration of the house's recorded cut: roped shoulder, full canvas chest, sculpted shoulder, very clean close chest, high waist. Not a photograph of the house's own work.: Original art · Il Sartoriale · Il Sartoriale · Il Sartoriale original art
- An illustration of the house's recorded cut: roped shoulder, full canvas chest, wide peaked lapel, nipped waist, flared skirt. Not a photograph of the house's own work.: Original art · Il Sartoriale · Il Sartoriale · Il Sartoriale original art
- An illustration of the house's recorded cut: soft shoulder, full canvas chest, balanced english; moderate shoulder, natural waist. Not a photograph of the house's own work.: Original art · Il Sartoriale · Il Sartoriale · Il Sartoriale original art
- An illustration of the house's recorded cut: soft shoulder, full canvas chest, clean milanese, defined but light shoulder. Not a photograph of the house's own work.: Original art · Il Sartoriale · Il Sartoriale · Il Sartoriale original art