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Il Sartoriale
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470 статей по пошиву на заказ, производству обуви, тканям и ремёслам Справочное издание: мы ничего не продаём и не ранжируем никого за вознаграждение Каждая цифра сопровождается источником и датой проверки

Портной, работающий на заказ · Florence · Основан 1948

Liverano & Liverano

Сказал lee-veh-RAH-no

The house that made Florentine tailoring internationally legible: wide lapel, round chest, no dart.

Liverano & Liverano is the defining Florentine tailoring house. Antonio Liverano's coat is recognisable at a distance: a very wide lapel with a full belly, a rounded chest, a soft shoulder, and a front cut without a dart, so the shape comes from the panels. It has trained or influenced a great many of the Japanese tailors now working internationally.

BespokeMade-to-measureГотовая одеждаВыездные примерки
An illustration of the house's recorded cut: soft shoulder, light canvas chest, rounded, wide lapel, dartless front. Not a photograph of the house's own work.
An illustration of the house's recorded cut: soft shoulder, light canvas chest, rounded, wide lapel, dartless front. Not a photograph of the house's own work.
Стиль дома Rounded, wide lapel, dartless front плечо: soft
Грудь light canvas extensive handwork
Примерки 2–4 16–32 недели
От $6,500 минимальная задокументированная цена, конвертирована

The dartless front

Most tailored jackets take some of their waist shaping from a front dart. Liverano's does not, or barely: the shape is taken out of the side panels and out of the iron, leaving a clean uninterrupted front.

That is why the lapel can be cut as wide as it is and still look balanced: there is nothing else happening on the front of the coat. It is also why the cutting has to be right, because there is no dart to adjust.

Influence

Liverano's workshop has had an outsized effect on the international trade, particularly through Japanese makers who trained there and returned home. The Florentine accent (wide lapel, round shoulder, no dart) is now more commonly encountered outside Florence than in it.

The house also runs ready-to-wear and has a substantial trunk-show programme, especially in Japan and the United States.

Commissioning here

Expect a longer process than a Neapolitan commission: two to four fittings, and a lead time that reflects a small workshop with an international waiting list. The house travels regularly, particularly to Japan and the United States.

The style should be seen first. A wide lapel and a round, dartless front are strong choices, and the coat reads as distinctly Florentine to anyone who knows the vocabulary, which is precisely why people commission it, and why a customer who wants something quieter should look elsewhere.

The Florentine coat, feature by feature

Florence cuts a coat that is neither English nor Neapolitan and the differences are specific rather than atmospheric.

  • A wide, open lapel with a high gorge, which broadens the chest visually.
  • An extended shoulder: the line runs slightly past the natural shoulder point, soft but not collapsed.
  • Rounded, open quarters at the front of the skirt, curving away rather than cutting straight down.
  • A shorter coat than the Neapolitan norm, which is what keeps the wide lapel in proportion.
  • Minimal front darting, so shape comes from the cut of the panels rather than from seams through the chest.

Why it reads as older

Put together, those choices produce a silhouette that looks like the 1930s and 1940s rather than like anything else currently being cut, and that is deliberate. Antonio Liverano's achievement was to keep a regional cut intact long enough for the rest of the world to notice it, and then to make it legible to buyers who had learned tailoring from English and Neapolitan examples.

Натуральный
без пада · повторяет линию тела
Мягкий
тонкий пад · мягкая линия
Spalla camicia
рукав собран, как у сорочки
Roped
оголовок рукава образует гребень
Удлинённый
выходит за линию плеча
Плечо: пять вариантов Right shoulder, front-on; the dashed line is the wearer’s own. Spalla camicia is the Neapolitan signature. The roped shoulder is Roman and Parisian in origin, and Cifonelli’s is the best known. The extended shoulder belongs to the sharper end of Savile Row and to the Nutters silhouette. The shoulder is where a house’s cut is most visible and hardest to fake, because it is built inside the coat. Схема составлена для Il Sartoriale.

Запись

Основан
1948The brothers Liverano moved from Puglia to Florence and established the workshop in the post-war years; the house gives 1948.
Город
Florence · Via dei Fossi
Страна
Service levels
Bespoke · Made-to-measure · Ready-to-wear
Плечо
Soft
Chest construction
Light canvas
Silhouette
Rounded, wide lapel, dartless front
Handwork
Extensive
Cutting in house
Yes
Sewing in house
Yes
Сделано в
Florence
Примерки
2–4
Lead time
16–32 weeks
Ownership
Liverano family
Известен тем, что
Florentine · Jackets · Wide Lapel
Record confidence
HighНасколько эта запись опирается на первичные источники, а не на вторичные материалы.По состоянию на September 2026
Signature
Wide lapel with a full belly; dartless or minimally darted front
Influence
Trained a generation of Japanese tailors
Производит

Это не котировки. Приведённые ниже цены — наиболее актуальные данные, которые нам удалось отнести к источнику; они указаны в той валюте, в которой были опубликованы.

ЧтоУслугаЦена НалогЗамеченоОснова
Bespoke jacketAn indicative band, not a quotation. Bespoke entry prices normally exclude tax and cloth beyond the house bunch, and houses raise them without announcement. Bespoke €4,500–7,000 excludes VAT September 2026 Estimated-Range
Il Sartoriale compilation from publicly reported figures
Two-piece bespoke suitAn indicative band, not a quotation. Bespoke entry prices normally exclude tax and cloth beyond the house bunch, and houses raise them without announcement. Bespoke €6,000–9,500 excludes VAT September 2026 Estimated-Range
Il Sartoriale compilation from publicly reported figures
Цены на bespoke, как правило, не включают ткань сверх образцов дома, подгонку после доставки и стоимость пересылки. Уточняйте у дома перед тем, как размещать заказ.

Trunk show позволяет дому принимать заказы и проводить примерки вне своей мастерской. Даты меняются; воспринимайте это как общую схему, а не как календарь, и уточняйте у дома.

ГородПриблизительноРазмещено наКлетчатый
LondonDocumented as travelling here for fittings. Schedules change; confirm directly with the house. — — —
New YorkDocumented as travelling here for fittings. Schedules change; confirm directly with the house. — — —
TokyoDocumented as travelling here for fittings. Schedules change; confirm directly with the house. — — —

Дома, которые нередко рассматривают рядом с ним

Сгруппированы, поскольку конкурируют за один и тот же заказ или работают в сопоставимой манере: не рейтинг и не утверждение об эквивалентности.

  1. An illustration of the house's recorded cut: soft shoulder, light canvas chest, florentine: wide lapel, rounded chest. Not a photograph of the house's own work. Sartoria Corcos Tokyo

    A Florentine coat cut in Tokyo, by a tailor who learned it in Florence.

  2. An illustration of the house's recorded cut: natural shoulder, light canvas chest, soft, short, open quarters. Not a photograph of the house's own work. Rubinacci Naples · 1932

    Rubinacci is the oldest and best-known tailoring house in Naples, founded in 1932, where the soft Neapolitan jacket without heavy padding was first created.

Сравнить рядом

Последняя проверка: September 2026 Цены и условия обслуживания меняются; на этой странице указана дата, когда была зафиксирована каждая цифра. Сообщить об ошибке на этой странице

Источники

  1. House information , Liverano & Liverano.

Если цифра оспаривается или дом её не публиковал, страница сообщает об этом, не выбирая произвольного числа.

Фотографии 3
  1. An illustration of the house's recorded cut: soft shoulder, light canvas chest, rounded, wide lapel, dartless front. Not a photograph of the house's own work.: Original art · Il Sartoriale · Il Sartoriale · Il Sartoriale original art
  2. An illustration of the house's recorded cut: soft shoulder, light canvas chest, florentine: wide lapel, rounded chest. Not a photograph of the house's own work.: Original art · Il Sartoriale · Il Sartoriale · Il Sartoriale original art
  3. An illustration of the house's recorded cut: natural shoulder, light canvas chest, soft, short, open quarters. Not a photograph of the house's own work.: Original art · Il Sartoriale · Il Sartoriale · Il Sartoriale original art

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