Bespoke terzi · Florence · Kuruluş 1948
Liverano & Liverano
Dedi lee-veh-RAH-no
The house that made Florentine tailoring internationally legible: wide lapel, round chest, no dart.
Liverano & Liverano is the defining Florentine tailoring house. Antonio Liverano's coat is recognisable at a distance: a very wide lapel with a full belly, a rounded chest, a soft shoulder, and a front cut without a dart, so the shape comes from the panels. It has trained or influenced a great many of the Japanese tailors now working internationally.
The dartless front
Most tailored jackets take some of their waist shaping from a front dart. Liverano's does not, or barely: the shape is taken out of the side panels and out of the iron, leaving a clean uninterrupted front.
That is why the lapel can be cut as wide as it is and still look balanced: there is nothing else happening on the front of the coat. It is also why the cutting has to be right, because there is no dart to adjust.
Influence
Liverano's workshop has had an outsized effect on the international trade, particularly through Japanese makers who trained there and returned home. The Florentine accent (wide lapel, round shoulder, no dart) is now more commonly encountered outside Florence than in it.
The house also runs ready-to-wear and has a substantial trunk-show programme, especially in Japan and the United States.
Commissioning here
Expect a longer process than a Neapolitan commission: two to four fittings, and a lead time that reflects a small workshop with an international waiting list. The house travels regularly, particularly to Japan and the United States.
The style should be seen first. A wide lapel and a round, dartless front are strong choices, and the coat reads as distinctly Florentine to anyone who knows the vocabulary, which is precisely why people commission it, and why a customer who wants something quieter should look elsewhere.
The Florentine coat, feature by feature
Florence cuts a coat that is neither English nor Neapolitan and the differences are specific rather than atmospheric.
- A wide, open lapel with a high gorge, which broadens the chest visually.
- An extended shoulder: the line runs slightly past the natural shoulder point, soft but not collapsed.
- Rounded, open quarters at the front of the skirt, curving away rather than cutting straight down.
- A shorter coat than the Neapolitan norm, which is what keeps the wide lapel in proportion.
- Minimal front darting, so shape comes from the cut of the panels rather than from seams through the chest.
Why it reads as older
Put together, those choices produce a silhouette that looks like the 1930s and 1940s rather than like anything else currently being cut, and that is deliberate. Antonio Liverano's achievement was to keep a regional cut intact long enough for the rest of the world to notice it, and then to make it legible to buyers who had learned tailoring from English and Neapolitan examples.
Kayıt
Maliyeti
Sitedeki fiyatlar →Bunlar fiyat teklifi değildir. Aşağıdaki fiyatlar, bir kaynağa atfedebildiğimiz en güncel rakamlardır; yayımlandıkları para birimi cinsinden gösterilmektedir.
| Ne | Hizmet | Fiyat | Gözlemlenen |
|---|---|---|---|
| Bespoke jacketAn indicative band, not a quotation. Bespoke entry prices normally exclude tax and cloth beyond the house bunch, and houses raise them without announcement. | Bespoke | €4,500–7,000 | September 2026 |
| Two-piece bespoke suitAn indicative band, not a quotation. Bespoke entry prices normally exclude tax and cloth beyond the house bunch, and houses raise them without announcement. | Bespoke | €6,000–9,500 | September 2026 |
Nereye gidiyorlar
Size gelen bir usta bulun →Trunk show'lar bir atölyenin kendi atölyesi dışında sipariş almasına ve prova yapmasına olanak tanır. Tarihler değişebilir; bunu takvim olarak değil şablon olarak değerlendirin ve atölye ile teyit ediniz.
| Şehir | Yaklaşık olarak | Kareli |
|---|---|---|
| LondonDocumented as travelling here for fittings. Schedules change; confirm directly with the house. | — | — |
| New YorkDocumented as travelling here for fittings. Schedules change; confirm directly with the house. | — | — |
| TokyoDocumented as travelling here for fittings. Schedules change; confirm directly with the house. | — | — |
Sıklıkla birlikte değerlendirilen atölyeler
Aynı komisyon için rekabet ettikleri ya da benzer bir anlayışla çalıştıkları için bir araya getirilmiştir: bu bir sıralama değil, bir denklik de değil.
Yan yana karşılaştır
Kaynaklar
- House information , Liverano & Liverano.
Bir rakam tartışmalıysa ya da atölye onu yayımlamamışsa, sayfa bir sayı seçmek yerine bunu açıkça belirtir.
Fotoğraf kredileri 3
- An illustration of the house's recorded cut: soft shoulder, light canvas chest, rounded, wide lapel, dartless front. Not a photograph of the house's own work.: Original art · Il Sartoriale · Il Sartoriale · Il Sartoriale original art
- An illustration of the house's recorded cut: soft shoulder, light canvas chest, florentine: wide lapel, rounded chest. Not a photograph of the house's own work.: Original art · Il Sartoriale · Il Sartoriale · Il Sartoriale original art
- An illustration of the house's recorded cut: natural shoulder, light canvas chest, soft, short, open quarters. Not a photograph of the house's own work.: Original art · Il Sartoriale · Il Sartoriale · Il Sartoriale original art