Kỹ thuật · Construction
Shirt collar construction
How a shirt collar is lined and attached decides whether it sits stiff and flat or rolls softly, and cheaper shirts often cut corners here.
A shirt collar's behaviour comes from its interlining and how it is attached. A fused collar is stiff, flat and consistent; a sewn-in interlining is softer and rolls; an unlined collar rolls most of all and is the Ivy button-down's signature. Hand-attached collars, found in bespoke, sit closer to the neck.
Three approaches
| Type | How | Behaviour |
|---|---|---|
| Fused | Interlining bonded with adhesive | Flat, crisp, uniform; can bubble after many washes |
| Sewn interlining | Interlining stitched in, floating | Softer, holds a roll, ages better |
| Unlined | No interlining at all | Rolls freely; the classic oxford button-down collar |
The collar roll
A collar that rolls, curving up from the band and down to the point, rather than lying flat, frames the face and looks alive. A fused collar cannot roll; it can only lie. This is the difference people are responding to when they say a shirt looks expensive without being able to say why.
The button-down is the clearest case: an unlined collar of some length, buttoned down so it is forced into a curve. Shorten the collar or fuse it, and the roll disappears, which is what has happened to most button-downs sold today.
Collar height and the jacket
A shirt collar should be tall enough at the back to show above the jacket collar: about a centimetre and a half is the conventional target. A short collar disappears under the coat, leaves a gap at the neck and makes the whole outfit look ill-fitting even when everything else is right.
Most ready-to-wear shirts have shortened their collars over the last thirty years, which is why a bespoke shirt often looks better under a jacket for reasons the wearer cannot immediately identify.
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Ai sử dụng nó
Các nhà may và xưởng vải trên trang này có liên hệ được ghi nhận với Shirt collar construction.
01
Trang phục The dress shirt
A dress shirt is judged by how it fits at the collar, shoulder and cuff, and by construction details that decide how long it lasts.
02
Thợ may áo sơ mi Anna Matuozzo
Anna Matuozzo is a Naples shirtmaker, now run by the founder's daughters, whose custom shirts have unusually much hand sewing, including collars, sleeves and buttonholes.
03
Thợ may áo sơ mi Budd Shirtmakers
A small London shirtmaker that has stayed a shirtmaker, in an arcade off Piccadilly.
04
Thợ may áo sơ mi Charvet
The first shop in the world to make shirts to measure for whoever walked in, and still the reference.
05
Thợ may áo sơ mi Turnbull & Asser
Jermyn Street's best-known name, with a bespoke workroom behind the shop and a distinctive collar.
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Collar roll
Thuật ngữ từ điển
The curve a shirt collar makes as it stands up from the band and turns down. A collar with roll frames the face; a fused collar cannot roll and lies flat. It is what people are…
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Button-down collar
Thuật ngữ từ điển
A collar with small buttons fastening the points to the shirt front. Adapted, by Brooks Brothers' account, from English polo players pinning down flapping collars. Needs to be…
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Collar band
Thuật ngữ từ điển
The upright strip a shirt collar is attached to, encircling the neck. Its height determines how much collar shows above a jacket; a low band disappears under the coat.
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Single-needle stitching
Thuật ngữ từ điển
Seams sewn twice with one needle in separate passes rather than once with two needles. Slower, narrower, and less prone to puckering. A marker of a well-made shirt.
Ghi công hình ảnh 6
- A shirt collar opened to show its layers: Original art · Il Sartoriale · Il Sartoriale · Il Sartoriale original art
- A white dress shirt with a double cuff: Original art · Il Sartoriale · Il Sartoriale · Il Sartoriale original art
- An illustration of a shirt of the kind the house makes. Not a photograph of the house's own work.: Original art · Il Sartoriale · Il Sartoriale · Il Sartoriale original art
- Piccadilly Arcade, December 2015 03: Photograph · Edwardx · Wikimedia Commons · CC BY-SA 4.0
- Charvet store: Photograph · Racconish · Wikimedia Commons · CC BY-SA 3.0
- Turnbull & Asser, St James's, October 2021: Photograph · No Swan So Fine · Wikimedia Commons · CC BY-SA 4.0