Техника · Construction
Spalla camicia (the shirt shoulder)
Сказал SPAL-la ka-MEE-cha
A sleeve set into a jacket the way a sleeve is set into a shirt: inside out, with the fullness gathered.
Spalla camicia means shirt shoulder. The sleeve is attached with the seam allowance turned into the sleeve rather than the body, and a small excess of cloth is gathered at the sleeve head, producing the soft ripples along the top of a Neapolitan shoulder. It is decorative in effect and structural in origin: it lets the shoulder stay soft.
What is actually happening
On most jackets the sleeve is sewn to the body and the seam allowance is pressed towards the sleeve, with a sleeve head roll or wadding supporting the top. On a spalla camicia the sleeve is attached as a shirt sleeve would be, and the sleeve is cut with a little more cloth at the head than the armhole needs. That excess has to go somewhere, and it goes into small gathers.
The ripples, grinze, are therefore a by-product, not the aim. The aim is a shoulder with no internal support that still lets the arm move.
Degrees of it
Houses do this to very different extents. Some gather so lightly that the effect is visible only in raking light; others produce pronounced pleating along the whole shoulder. Neither is more correct, but the heavier version has become a visual signal of Neapolitan tailoring and is sometimes applied to garments that are otherwise conventionally built, a shoulder treatment used as a badge. It is also worth knowing that a gathered shoulder is not automatically hand-made. The effect can be produced on a machine, and is, in factory clothing sold as Neapolitan.
Whether to want it
It is a house signature, not a quality marker, and it is worth deciding whether you want to wear one. A gathered shoulder is unmistakably Neapolitan and unmistakably informal; on a business suit in a conservative city it will be read, correctly, as a statement.
It also does not suit every shoulder. On a sloping shoulder the gathering emphasises the slope; on a square one it softens usefully. Look at the two versions on your own body before treating it as a default.
Вкратце
Кто с этим работает
Дома и мануфактуры на этом сайте, имеющие задокументированную связь с Spalla camicia (the shirt shoulder).
01
Стиль пошива Neapolitan tailoring
Neapolitan jackets are as light and soft as possible, with little shoulder padding, gathered sleeves and a high armhole, and are the world's most copied style.
02
Портной, работающий на заказ Rubinacci
Rubinacci is the oldest and best-known tailoring house in Naples, founded in 1932, where the soft Neapolitan jacket without heavy padding was first created.
03
Город Naples
Naples is today's most influential tailoring city, known for soft, light jackets with little padding, high armholes and gathered sleeves, made for hot weather.
04
Техника The hand-set sleeve
The one seam that most rewards a person doing it, because it is the one seam that has to be eased.
05
Техника The roped shoulder
The sleeve head lifted slightly proud of the shoulder line: the opposite decision to the Neapolitan one.
06
Техника Unstructured construction
Shape from cutting and ironwork alone, with nothing inside the coat to help.
Фотографии 7
- A shoulder with the sleeve head gathered like a shirt: Original art · Il Sartoriale · Il Sartoriale · Il Sartoriale original art
- A soft Neapolitan-cut jacket on a dummy: Original art · Il Sartoriale · Il Sartoriale · Il Sartoriale original art
- An illustration of the house's recorded cut: natural shoulder, light canvas chest, soft, short, open quarters. Not a photograph of the house's own work.: Original art · Il Sartoriale · Il Sartoriale · Il Sartoriale original art
- Napoli, Via Chiaia: Photograph · Palickap · Wikimedia Commons · CC BY-SA 4.0
- A sleeve being set into an armhole by hand: Original art · Il Sartoriale · Il Sartoriale · Il Sartoriale original art
- A roped shoulder with a raised sleeve head: Original art · Il Sartoriale · Il Sartoriale · Il Sartoriale original art
- An unlined jacket turned inside out: Original art · Il Sartoriale · Il Sartoriale · Il Sartoriale original art