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Land · Europe

United Kingdom

The country that invented the modern suit, and still cuts as though the weather might turn.

British tailoring means structure. A traditional English jacket is built around a canvas chest and a defined shoulder, in cloth heavy enough to hold its shape, and it is designed to make the wearer look upright and substantial. Savile Row in London is its centre; Northampton, ninety minutes north, is the centre of English shoemaking.

The Royal Arcade, Old Bond Street
The Royal Arcade (completed in 1880), Old Bond Street W1, Mayfair, London

Structure as a national habit

The English coat is built. Between the outer cloth and the lining sits a canvas of horsehair and wool, shaped by hand with rows of pad stitching so that it holds a curve over the chest without being pressed into one. The shoulder is defined, often with a modest pad, and the sleeve head is frequently roped, set slightly proud of the shoulder line. The waist is suppressed, the skirt of the jacket is longer than an Italian equivalent, and the whole thing is cut to make a man look tall, upright and rather formal.

This is not decoration. It descends from military and riding dress, in cloth designed for a cold, wet island, for a customer who expected a coat to last decades and to be recut when his shape changed. Weight was a virtue: a 13- or 14-ounce cloth hangs better, resists creasing and takes a press.

Savile Row

A short street in Mayfair, occupied by tailors since the early nineteenth century, and the origin of the word bespoke in its clothing sense: cloth “spoken for” by a customer. The Row's houses are not interchangeable: Anderson & Sheppard cuts a soft, draped coat descended from Frederick Scholte; Huntsman cuts a lean, single-buttoned one with military bearing; Henry Poole, the oldest firm still on the street, sits between them.

The Row has spent forty years under commercial pressure (Mayfair rents against a business that takes fifty or more hours of skilled labour per coat), and several houses now sell ready-to-wear and made-to-measure alongside bespoke. The trade has also aged: apprenticeships thinned in the 1980s and 1990s, and the shortage of trained coatmakers is the constraint most cited by the houses themselves.

Cloth and shoes

Britain still weaves. The West of England (Fox Brothers in Somerset above all) is the traditional home of flannel and heavier worsteds; Yorkshire, around Huddersfield, is the centre of fine worsted suiting; Scotland produces tweed, including the protected Harris Tweed, woven by hand in the Outer Hebrides under statute.

Northampton has made shoes since the seventeenth century and remains the centre of English Goodyear-welted footwear: Edward Green, Crockett & Jones, Church's, Tricker's and others within a few miles. London holds the bespoke shoemakers (John Lobb and George Cleverley among them) in the same square mile as the tailors.

What the label does and does not promise

“Savile Row” is a street, not a certification. A shop on it may cut on the premises, or may take orders for garments made elsewhere. The Savile Row Bespoke Association sets standards for its own members, including a minimum proportion of hand labour and a pattern cut individually for each customer, but membership is voluntary and not every house on the street belongs.

Similarly, “English-made shoes” covers everything from fully hand-welted bespoke to Goodyear-welted factory production of several thousand pairs a week. Both are genuinely made in England and the difference between them is a factor of ten in price.

In één oogopslag

Principal centres
London (Savile Row), Northampton (shoes), Huddersfield and the West of England (cloth)
Characteristic construction
Full canvas chest, defined shoulder, often a roped sleeve head
Trade body
Savile Row Bespoke AssociationVoluntary; sets minimum hand-work standards for members.

Kleermakers op maat in United Kingdom

Alle kleermakers op maat →
An illustration of the house's recorded cut: natural shoulder, full canvas chest, drape: soft, full chest, long skirt. Not a photograph of the house's own work. 01

Anderson & Sheppard

Anderson & Sheppard, the softest Savile Row tailor, cuts jackets with extra cloth across the chest so they hang softly and move with you.

 An illustration of the house's recorded cut: roped shoulder, full canvas chest, lean, high-waisted, single button. Not a photograph of the house's own work. 02

Huntsman

Huntsman, Savile Row's sharpest tailor, makes lean jackets with strong shoulders, a high nipped waist and usually one button, rooted in riding clothes.

 An illustration of the house's recorded cut: soft shoulder, full canvas chest, balanced english; moderate shoulder, natural waist. Not a photograph of the house's own work. 03

Henry Poole & Co

Henry Poole & Co is Savile Row's oldest tailor and made the Prince of Wales's 1865 evening jacket that led to the dinner jacket and tuxedo.

 An illustration of the house's recorded cut: roped shoulder, full canvas chest, structured english. Not a photograph of the house's own work. 04

Gieves & Hawkes

Gieves & Hawkes, at 1 Savile Row, is a tailor born from two old military firms, known for uniforms, royal warrants and firmly built English jackets.

 An illustration of the house's recorded cut: roped shoulder, full canvas chest, structured english, military bearing. Not a photograph of the house's own work. 05

Dege & Skinner

Dege & Skinner is a family-owned Savile Row tailor known for military and ceremonial uniforms, and rare in making custom shirts in the same building.

 An illustration of the house's recorded cut: roped shoulder, full canvas chest, wide peaked lapel, nipped waist, flared skirt. Not a photograph of the house's own work. 06

Edward Sexton

Edward Sexton is the house of the tailor who shook up Savile Row in 1969, still making bold jackets with huge lapels, strong shoulders, nipped waists.
  1. An illustration of the house's recorded cut: roped shoulder, full canvas chest, lean, structured, clean chest. Not a photograph of the house's own work. Richard Anderson London · 2001

    Huntsman-trained cutters who opened their own door on the Row in 2001.
  2. An illustration of the house's recorded cut: roped shoulder, full canvas chest, strongly shaped, high waist, distinctive lapel. Not a photograph of the house's own work. Chittleborough & Morgan London

    The other inheritors of Nutters, cutting a coat with more shape than almost anyone.
  3. An illustration of the house's recorded cut: natural shoulder, full canvas chest, drape: soft, full chest. Not a photograph of the house's own work. Steven Hitchcock London

    The drape cut, carried on outside Anderson & Sheppard by a tailor who grew up in it.
  4. An illustration of the house's recorded cut: soft shoulder, full canvas chest, soft english, close and contemporary. Not a photograph of the house's own work. Thom Sweeney London

    A younger London house cutting a softer, more Italian-inflected English coat.
  5. An illustration of the house's recorded cut: soft shoulder, full canvas chest, english. Not a photograph of the house's own work. Whitcomb & Shaftesbury London

    A London house that says out loud what several others do quietly: some of the making happens in India.

Schoenmakers in United Kingdom

Alle schoenmakers →
The John Lobb shop in St James's Street, London 01

John Lobb (St James's)

John Lobb of St James's is a family-owned London firm making shoes by hand to each customer's own foot shape, separate from John Lobb Paris.

 An illustration of a welted shoe of the kind the house makes. Not a photograph of the house's own work. 02

George Cleverley

George Cleverley is a London shoemaker in the Royal Arcade, making custom and off-the-shelf shoes known for a long, slightly squared-off toe.

 An illustration of a welted shoe of the kind the house makes. Not a photograph of the house's own work. 03

Gaziano & Girling

Gaziano & Girling is a shoemaker, founded in 2006, whose off-the-shelf shoes have unusually shapely, hand-polished finishing that raised standards for factory shoes.

 An illustration of a welted shoe of the kind the house makes. Not a photograph of the house's own work. 04

Edward Green

Edward Green is a Northampton shoemaker, around since 1890, making top-tier off-the-shelf shoes with far more hand shaping and finishing than most factory shoes.

 Crockett & Jones Dalton shoes in black calf 05

Crockett & Jones

Crockett & Jones is a family-owned Northampton shoemaker whose wide range runs from standard well-made shoes to a much more finely finished premium line.

 Church's works in St James Road, Northampton 06

Church's

Church's is the best-known English shoe brand, owned by Prada since 1999, and quality now varies across its range, so the name alone guarantees less.
  1. Tricker's shop on Jermyn Street, London Tricker's Northampton · 1829

    Tricker's is the oldest surviving shoemaker in Northampton, best known for heavy country boots like the Stow brogue boot with its thick, chunky sole.

Hemdmakers in United Kingdom

Alle hemdmakers →
Turnbull & Asser's shop in St James's, London 01

Turnbull & Asser

Jermyn Street's best-known name, with a bespoke workroom behind the shop and a distinctive collar.

 Budd Shirtmakers' windows in the Piccadilly Arcade, at Christmas 02

Budd Shirtmakers

A small London shirtmaker that has stayed a shirtmaker, in an arcade off Piccadilly.

 An illustration of a shirt of the kind the house makes. Not a photograph of the house's own work. 03

Emma Willis

A Jermyn Street shirtmaker with its own factory in Gloucester: an unusual degree of control.

Stoffenmakers en handelaren in United Kingdom

Alle stoffenmakers & handelaren →
  1. A Harris Tweed weaver at a treadle loom Harris Tweed

    Harris Tweed is not a company but a legally protected cloth, pure wool dyed and spun in the Outer Hebrides and hand-woven in islanders' homes.
  2. Fox Brothers 1772

    Fox Brothers is a Somerset mill that has woven since the eighteenth century and is the go-to name for English flannel, a heavy cloth that tailors beautifully.
  3. Holland & Sherry 1836

    A London cloth merchant of long standing, now with a mill of its own and a very large book.
  4. Huddersfield Fine Worsteds

    Huddersfield Fine Worsteds is a Yorkshire cloth merchant offering several old English ranges of sturdy, well-behaved smooth wool suiting.
  5. Hardy Minnis

    Hardy Minnis is a London cloth merchant best known for Fresco, an open, airy wool suiting that people who wear suits in heat reorder for decades.
  6. J & FJ Baker

    J & FJ Baker is England's last oak-bark tannery, slowly tanning sole leather in Devon over about a year for custom and high-end shoes.

Merken in United Kingdom

Alle merken →
  1. Drake's London · 1977

    Drake's is a London tie maker turned full menswear brand, known for relaxed, softly made clothes in English cloth with little shoulder padding.

Kleedstijlen

All styles →
  1. A structured English-cut coat on a dummy Savile Row London

    Savile Row jackets are shaped by hand around a horsehair and wool inner layer, giving defined shoulders, a nipped waist and an upright look for decades.

Steden

  1. Savile Row, London — the street where bespoke tailoring was formalised London

    London's Savile Row holds the world's oldest still-trading tailoring houses, cutting jackets with a firm chest and defined shoulder, with shoemakers and shirtmakers close by.
  2. Northampton, the centre of English shoemaking since the seventeenth century Northampton

    Northampton is the centre of English shoemaking, where Edward Green, Crockett & Jones, Church's and others make shoes in factories running for a century or more.
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Bronnen

  1. Savile Row Bespoke Association: standards for members , Savile Row Bespoke Association.
  2. The Harris Tweed Act 1993 , UK Parliament. Defines Harris Tweed in statute, one of very few textiles protected this way.

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Gerelateerd

KleedstijlSavile Row StadLondon StadNorthampton Historische figuurBeau Brummell GeschiedenisThe blazer, and two stories about it StofFlannel StofIrish linen StofTweed StoffenmakerScabal AccessoireHats StoffenmakerFox Brothers StoffenmakerHarris Tweed
Fotorechten 26
  1. Old Bond Street 903: Photograph · Michel wal · Wikimedia Commons · CC BY-SA 3.0
  2. An illustration of the house's recorded cut: natural shoulder, full canvas chest, drape: soft, full chest, long skirt. Not a photograph of the house's own work.: Original art · Il Sartoriale · Il Sartoriale · Il Sartoriale original art
  3. An illustration of the house's recorded cut: roped shoulder, full canvas chest, lean, high-waisted, single button. Not a photograph of the house's own work.: Original art · Il Sartoriale · Il Sartoriale · Il Sartoriale original art
  4. An illustration of the house's recorded cut: soft shoulder, full canvas chest, balanced english; moderate shoulder, natural waist. Not a photograph of the house's own work.: Original art · Il Sartoriale · Il Sartoriale · Il Sartoriale original art
  5. An illustration of the house's recorded cut: roped shoulder, full canvas chest, structured english. Not a photograph of the house's own work.: Original art · Il Sartoriale · Il Sartoriale · Il Sartoriale original art
  6. An illustration of the house's recorded cut: roped shoulder, full canvas chest, structured english, military bearing. Not a photograph of the house's own work.: Original art · Il Sartoriale · Il Sartoriale · Il Sartoriale original art
  7. An illustration of the house's recorded cut: roped shoulder, full canvas chest, wide peaked lapel, nipped waist, flared skirt. Not a photograph of the house's own work.: Original art · Il Sartoriale · Il Sartoriale · Il Sartoriale original art
  8. An illustration of the house's recorded cut: roped shoulder, full canvas chest, lean, structured, clean chest. Not a photograph of the house's own work.: Original art · Il Sartoriale · Il Sartoriale · Il Sartoriale original art
  9. An illustration of the house's recorded cut: roped shoulder, full canvas chest, strongly shaped, high waist, distinctive lapel. Not a photograph of the house's own work.: Original art · Il Sartoriale · Il Sartoriale · Il Sartoriale original art
  10. An illustration of the house's recorded cut: natural shoulder, full canvas chest, drape: soft, full chest. Not a photograph of the house's own work.: Original art · Il Sartoriale · Il Sartoriale · Il Sartoriale original art
  11. An illustration of the house's recorded cut: soft shoulder, full canvas chest, soft english, close and contemporary. Not a photograph of the house's own work.: Original art · Il Sartoriale · Il Sartoriale · Il Sartoriale original art
  12. An illustration of the house's recorded cut: soft shoulder, full canvas chest, english. Not a photograph of the house's own work.: Original art · Il Sartoriale · Il Sartoriale · Il Sartoriale original art
  13. Store front of John Lobb, 88 Jermyn St, London: Photograph · OlafJanssen · Wikimedia Commons · CC BY-SA 3.0
  14. An illustration of a welted shoe of the kind the house makes. Not a photograph of the house's own work.: Original art · Il Sartoriale · Il Sartoriale · Il Sartoriale original art
  15. An illustration of a welted shoe of the kind the house makes. Not a photograph of the house's own work.: Original art · Il Sartoriale · Il Sartoriale · Il Sartoriale original art
  16. An illustration of a welted shoe of the kind the house makes. Not a photograph of the house's own work.: Original art · Il Sartoriale · Il Sartoriale · Il Sartoriale original art
  17. Crockett & Jones men's dress shoes, type Dalton, black calf leather 02: Photograph · OlafJanssen · Wikimedia Commons · CC BY-SA 3.0
  18. Church's Works in St James Northampton: Photograph · Cj1340 · Wikimedia Commons · CC BY-SA 3.0
  19. Trickers, Jermyn Street, London: Photograph · Philafrenzy · Wikimedia Commons · CC BY-SA 4.0
  20. Turnbull & Asser, St James's, October 2021: Photograph · No Swan So Fine · Wikimedia Commons · CC BY-SA 4.0
  21. Piccadilly Arcade, December 2015 03: Photograph · Edwardx · Wikimedia Commons · CC BY-SA 4.0
  22. An illustration of a shirt of the kind the house makes. Not a photograph of the house's own work.: Original art · Il Sartoriale · Il Sartoriale · Il Sartoriale original art
  23. Harris Tweed Sakko - Ausschnitt mit Lederknopf - Bild 001: Photograph · Lupus in Saxonia · Wikimedia Commons · CC BY-SA 4.0
  24. A structured English-cut coat on a dummy: Original art · Il Sartoriale · Il Sartoriale · Il Sartoriale original art
  25. Savile Row 1: Photograph · User:Edward · Wikimedia Commons · Public domain
  26. 20260712 200312 C.T. Hawkins Limited, Northampton: Photograph · Bearas · Wikimedia Commons · CC BY-SA 4.0

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