Vai al contenuto
Il Sartoriale Il mondo della moda maschile di qualità
★
Il Sartoriale
Da qui si comincia Sarti bespoke Calzolai Camiciai Produttori e commercianti di tessuti Tessuti e materiali
Mestiere Come si fanno i capi Stili sartoriali Artigiani Storia
Abbigliamento CapiAccessori MarchiPersone
Luoghi CittàPaesi Mappa del mondo
Strumenti Trova un sarto o un calzolaioConfronti PrezziGlossario ScopriNotizie Chiedi all'archivioAgenti AI ★ SalvatoAPI libera
Informazioni Chi siamoMetodologia Politica editoriale Fonti Licenze delle immagini Come valutiamo CorrezioniContatti
Impostazioni
Modalità scura
Lingua dell'interfaccia

Vista guidata
Prima volta qui? Ogni pagina si apre con una spiegazione in lingua corrente prima che inizino i dettagli, e i termini tecnici sono chiariti dove compaiono.

Parere dell'esperto
Chi conosce già il vocabolario. Direttamente alla sostanza, con le spiegazioni introduttive nascoste. Questa è l'impostazione predefinita.

★ Le tue pagine salvate
470 voci relative a sartoria, calzoleria, tessuti e mestiere Pubblicazione di riferimento: non vendiamo nulla e non classifichiamo nessuno a pagamento Ogni cifra riporta la propria fonte e la data in cui è stata verificata

Capo · Outerwear

The leather jacket

A leather jacket's quality depends on the hide, how it was tanned and the cut, with most styles coming from military flight and motorcycle jackets.

A leather jacket's quality is in the hide (which animal, which part, how it was tanned) and in the pattern. The main civilian patterns descend from military flight jackets and motorcycle clothing, and both were designed for protection rather than for looking a particular way.

A brown horsehide leather jacket
A brown horsehide leather jacket

The hide

Horsehide is dense, stiff at first and extremely durable; it creases sharply and develops hard character. Steerhide is heavy and robust, the standard for motorcycle jackets. Calfskin is finer and softer, better for a jacket worn over tailoring. Lambskin is soft and light and wears out.

Weight matters as much as species: leather is measured in ounces per square foot, and a 3-ounce lambskin and a 5-ounce horsehide are different categories of object.

The patterns

PatternOrigin
A-2US Army Air Force flight jacket; horsehide, snap flap pockets, knit cuffs and waistband
G-1US Navy flight jacket; mouton collar, bi-swing back
Café racerMotorcycle; minimal, stand collar, centre zip
Double riderMotorcycle; asymmetric zip, belt, wide lapels
Blouson / bomberShort, elasticated waist and cuffs
 Almost every civilian leather jacket is a variation on a military or motorcycle pattern.

Fit and break-in

Leather does not give the way cloth does; it stretches slightly across the back and at the elbows and nowhere else. A leather jacket that is tight across the shoulders when new will always be tight across the shoulders.

Buy it close everywhere else. A heavy horsehide takes months of wear to soften and then holds its shape for decades; a soft lambskin is comfortable immediately and is worn out in a few years.

Immagini

Licenze →
A leather jacket
Abercrombie & Fitch leather flight jacket worn by Charles Lindbergh. One of many Abercrombie & Fitch jackets Lindbergh wore in his lifetime, this jacket is likely from the 1940's.
A leather jacket
This flight jacket belonged to Dr. Sally K. Ride, who became the first American woman in space when she flew on the STS-7 shuttle mission in 1983. Her second and last space mission was STS-41G in 1984. Shuttle astronauts wore this type of flight jacket to…

In sintesi

Judged by
Hide, tannage and weight, before pattern
Hides
Horsehide, steerhide, calfskin, lambskin
Measured in
Ounces per square foot

Come viene realizzato

Tutte le tecniche →
  1. Hides drying in a tannery loft Tanning

    Tanning turns hide into leather that won't rot, with quick chrome tanning giving soft shoe tops and slow bark tanning giving firmer soles that age nicely.
Ultima revisione: September 2026 Segnala un errore in questa pagina

Correlato

TessutoLeather TecnicaTanning MarchioHermès CapoJeans CapoThe field jacket CapoThe overcoat CapoThe trench coat CapoThe polo coat
Crediti fotografici 4
  1. A brown horsehide leather jacket: Original art · Il Sartoriale · Il Sartoriale · Il Sartoriale original art
  2. Brown Leather Double Breasted Flight Jacket Belonging to Charles Lindbergh: Photograph · Abercrombie and Fitch · Wikimedia Commons · Public domain
  3. Jacket, Flight, Sally K. Ride - DPLA - 638db2bd0a7f2f4ba570e22386b06c6f (page 1): Photograph · Qual-Craft Mfgs, Sally K. Ride · Wikimedia Commons · CC0
  4. Hides drying in a tannery loft: Original art · Il Sartoriale · Il Sartoriale · Il Sartoriale original art

Politica delle immagini