Pembuat Sepatu · Paris

John Lobb (Paris)

John Lobb Paris is a Hermès-owned shoe brand selling high-end factory-made and made-to-order shoes, and is a separate company from the London John Lobb.

John Lobb Paris has been owned by Hermès since the 1970s and operates as an international ready-to-wear and made-to-order shoemaker, with production in Northampton. It also offers bespoke. It is a different company from John Lobb of St James's Street in London.

BespokeMade-to-measureReady-to-wear

An illustration of a welted shoe of the kind the house makes. Not a photograph of the house's own work.

Gaya rumah mode — bahu: tidak terdokumentasi

Dada — selective handwork

Fitting — 1–20 minggu

Dari $1,800 terendah yang terdokumentasi, setelah konversi

What it makes

Goodyear-welted ready-to-wear and made-to-order shoes, produced in Northampton, at the top of the factory-made price range. The lasts are the house's own and are the reason to buy: a John Lobb Paris shoe is recognisable by its shape rather than by any construction feature unique to it.

The bespoke service exists and is a separate proposition at a considerably higher price.

The ownership question

Hermès acquired the business in the 1970s, and the arrangement that allows two separate companies to use the same name in different markets dates from that period. The London firm remains independent and family-owned. Neither business is the imposter. They are both continuations of the same nineteenth-century name under a split that is now half a century old.

Which product you are looking at

The range runs from Prestige (the house's Northampton-made Goodyear-welted line) through made-to-order on existing lasts to full bespoke made in Paris. The three differ by an order of magnitude in price and by a great deal in what is actually done by hand.

As with every large shoemaker, the useful question is about the specific model: where it was made, on which last, and by what construction. The name at this house genuinely does cover several different objects.

What Hermès ownership actually produced

The Paris business makes ready-to-wear and made-to-order shoes to a high standard, with the resources of a large luxury group behind the leather selection and the retail. It is not a bespoke house and does not present itself as one.

Read alongside the St James's firm, the pair is the clearest case study on this site of a name being worth more than the thing it originally named.

Hand welted

holdfast dipahat dari insole

holdfast adalah bagian dari insol

Dapat diganti solnya: berulang kali

Goodyear welted

rib canvas direkatkan ke insole

gemming direkatkan: bagian yang rentan gagal

Dapat diganti solnya: beberapa kali

Blake

satu jahitan menembus semua lapisan

jahitan masuk ke dalam sepatu

Dapat diganti solnya: dengan mesin Blake

Cemented

sol direkatkan ke upper

perekat saja

Dapat diganti solnya: umumnya tidak

upper insole welt outsole

Bagaimana sol ditempelkan, dan apakah dapat diganti Welt pada dua konstruksi di sebelah kiri menopang jahitan sol, sehingga sol dapat dilepas tanpa mengganggu upper. Pengelasan tangan memotong alurnya dari insol itu sendiri; Goodyear merekatkan rusuk kanvas, dan rusuk itulah yang pada akhirnya akan gagal. Diagram dibuat untuk Il Sartoriale.

Rekam jejak

Kota

Paris

Negara

France

Service levels

Bespoke · Made-to-measure · Ready-to-wear

Bahu