はじめに · Start Here
Bespoke, made-to-measure and ready-to-wear
Ready-to-wear comes in standard sizes, made-to-measure adjusts a standard pattern, and bespoke draws a new pattern just for you, refined through fittings.
Ready-to-wear is made in standard sizes. Made-to-measure modifies an existing standard pattern to your measurements. Bespoke draws a pattern for you from nothing and corrects it on your body through fittings. The distinction that matters is the pattern, not the amount of hand sewing.
The three, precisely
Ready-to-wear is made to a size chart and altered afterwards if at all. Everything about it is a compromise towards an average body, and a good one fits a lot of people acceptably.
Made-to-measure starts from an existing block (a standard pattern in the nearest size) and modifies it: lengthen the sleeve, let out the waist, drop the right shoulder. Usually one fitting or none. It fits better than anything off a rack and it has a ceiling, because a block can only absorb so much change before it distorts elsewhere.
Bespoke drafts a pattern from nothing for one person, cuts the cloth by hand, assembles the garment loosely, tries it on, marks the corrections in chalk, pulls it apart and does it again. Two to four fittings. The pattern is kept and improved for the next commission.
Why the word gets abused
Because 'bespoke' sells and there is no legal definition in most countries. A shop can take your measurements, send them abroad, deliver a garment in ten days and call it bespoke, and nothing stops it.
The test is not hand sewing; a good made-to-measure garment may contain plenty. It is: is a paper pattern drafted for me alone, is it kept, and will you take the garment apart if it is wrong? Ask exactly that. A real bespoke house answers immediately.
Which you should buy
If your body is close to average, good ready-to-wear altered by a competent tailor will fit you well and cost a fraction of the alternatives. This is the correct answer for more people than the industry likes to admit.
If you are between sizes, asymmetric, unusually built, or simply want something specific that nobody makes, made-to-measure and then bespoke start to earn their money. The advantage of bespoke grows the further your body is from the average, which is the honest version of the sales pitch.
- 標準サイズ
- 既製
- 補正の可能性あり
- 既存ブロック
- あなたの寸法に合わせて修正
- 1回、またはなし
- あなたのために引いたパターン
- 仮縫い裁断
- 仮縫い、解体、再裁断
- 2〜4回
画像
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概要
写真クレジット 2
- Three jackets side by side, one still basted: Original art · Il Sartoriale · Il Sartoriale · Il Sartoriale original art
- Cloths Tailoring: Photograph · Yemi festus · Wikimedia Commons · CC BY-SA 4.0