コンテンツへスキップ
Il Sartoriale The World of Fine Menswear
★
Il Sartoriale
はじめに ビスポーク・テーラー シューメーカー シャツメーカー 生地メーカーと商社 生地と素材
職人技 服の作られ方 テーラリングのスタイル 職人 沿革
衣料 衣服小物類 ブランド人物
場所 都市一覧国 世界地図
ツール テーラーまたはシューメーカーを探す比較一覧 価格一覧用語集 学ぶニュース アーカイブに質問するAIエージェント ★ 保存済み無料API
について 編集部について方法論 編集方針 出典 画像のライセンス 評価基準 訂正お問い合わせ
設定
ダークモード
インターフェース言語

ガイド付き表示
初めての方へ。各ページは詳細に入る前に平易な言葉による説明から始まり、専門用語はその都度解説しています。

専門家の見解
用語はすでにご存知の方へ。入門的な説明を省き、本論から始めます。これがデフォルト表示です。

★ 保存済みページ
470 テーラリング、シューメイキング、生地、クラフトにわたる項目 参考資料：販売も有償掲載も行っていません すべての数値に出典と確認日を付記している

テーラリングのスタイル · France

Parisian tailoring

The most sculptural shoulder in tailoring, over the cleanest possible chest.

Parisian bespoke builds a rounded, sculpted shoulder with a pronounced roll at the sleeve head, then cuts the chest and waist extremely close and clean beneath it. It is the most visually dramatic of the European traditions and among the most labour-intensive.

A sculpted Parisian roped shoulder
A sculpted Parisian roped shoulder

Building a shoulder

The Parisian shoulder is constructed rather than padded flat: layers built up and shaped so the line rises slightly and rolls at the sleeve head, with the fullness controlled so it reads as sculpture rather than bulk. Cifonelli is most identified with it.

Underneath, everything is pulled tight. The chest is cut close and pressed clean, the waist is high and narrow, and the skirt is cut to flare very slightly. The proportions are theatrical in a way neither English nor Italian tailoring attempts.

Building a shoulder

Layers of wadding and canvas shaped and sewn so that the shoulder line rises slightly towards its end and then rolls into the sleeve head in a continuous curve. It is neither a flat pad nor an English rope; it is a constructed three-dimensional form.

It takes hours and cannot be approximated. It is also the reason Parisian coats photograph as they do: the shoulder catches light along the roll.

Details that identify a house

  • The Cifonelli sleeve head: a rolled, sculpted junction rather than a rope or a flat set.
  • The Camps de Luca fishmouth lapel notch, cut so the notch interlocks like a mouth.
  • Hand finishing carried to an unusual degree throughout, including on parts nobody sees.

The rest of the coat

Everything below the shoulder is pulled clean: a close chest pressed smooth, a high narrow waist, a skirt cut to flare very slightly over the hip. The lapel is generally cut with a strong peak.

The combination, drama at the shoulder, discipline everywhere else, is what distinguishes the school from the English tradition it otherwise resembles technically.

ナチュラル
パッドなし・ボディに沿う
ソフト
薄いパッド・緩やかなライン
Spalla camicia
シャツのようにギャザーを寄せた袖
ロープド
袖山が稜線状に高く出る
エクステンデッド
肩先より外側に張り出す
肩の仕立て、五つの方法 Right shoulder, front-on; the dashed line is the wearer’s own. Spalla camicia is the Neapolitan signature. The roped shoulder is Roman and Parisian in origin, and Cifonelli’s is the best known. The extended shoulder belongs to the sharper end of Savile Row and to the Nutters silhouette. The shoulder is where a house’s cut is most visible and hardest to fake, because it is built inside the coat. 図版はIl Sartorialeのために制作。

画像

ライセンス →
Paris
Reproduction of a poster in "Le journal amusant" Caption: "Quels sont ces mystérieux personnages? Tout Paris se pose la question en contemplant l'affiche de dimensions paradoxales sur laquelle Sem et Roubille, les peintres habituels de la vie parisienne, ont…

概要

肩
Built and sculpted, with a pronounced roll
胸囲
Very clean, close-cut
ウエスト
High and narrow
都市
Paris
国
France

この流儀で仕事をしているハウス

  1. An illustration of the house's recorded cut: roped shoulder, full canvas chest, sharp, strongly built shoulder, defined waist. Not a photograph of the house's own work. Camps de Luca Paris · 1959

    Camps de Luca is a Paris tailor known for fine hand sewing and a signature lapel where collar and lapel meet in a mouth-like notch.
  2. An illustration of the house's recorded cut: roped shoulder, full canvas chest, sculpted shoulder, very clean close chest, high waist. Not a photograph of the house's own work. Cifonelli Paris · 1880

    Cifonelli is a Paris tailoring firm, founded by a Roman family in the 1920s, famous for a padded, rounded shoulder and a very close-fitting chest.

製造工程

全技法 →
  1. A roped shoulder with a raised sleeve head The roped shoulder

    The sleeve head lifted slightly proud of the shoulder line: the opposite decision to the Neapolitan one.
最終審査: September 2026 このページの誤りを報告する

関連

ビスポーク・テーラーCifonelli 国France 職人Lorenzo and Massimo Cifonelli 都市Paris ビスポーク・テーラーCamps de Luca テクニックThe roped shoulder テーラリングのスタイルSavile Row 用語集の項目Flare 都市Madrid ブランドHermès
写真クレジット 5
  1. A sculpted Parisian roped shoulder: Original art · Il Sartoriale · Il Sartoriale · Il Sartoriale original art
  2. Sem Roubille High Life Tailor habille: Photograph · Georges Goursat - Roubille · Wikimedia Commons · Public domain
  3. An illustration of the house's recorded cut: roped shoulder, full canvas chest, sharp, strongly built shoulder, defined waist. Not a photograph of the house's own work.: Original art · Il Sartoriale · Il Sartoriale · Il Sartoriale original art
  4. An illustration of the house's recorded cut: roped shoulder, full canvas chest, sculpted shoulder, very clean close chest, high waist. Not a photograph of the house's own work.: Original art · Il Sartoriale · Il Sartoriale · Il Sartoriale original art
  5. A roped shoulder with a raised sleeve head: Original art · Il Sartoriale · Il Sartoriale · Il Sartoriale original art

画像ポリシー