Estilo de alfaiataria · Italy

Roman tailoring

A long lean line, lightly built: the middle position, argued for with Roman confidence.

Roman tailoring sits between Neapolitan softness and Milanese structure. The coat is cut long and close, the shoulder is built but not heavy, and the effect is elongating rather than either relaxed or severe.

Proportion over construction

What distinguishes Rome is less what goes inside the coat than the proportions of the outside: length, the position of the button, the height of the waist, the closeness through the hip. The line is long, and the silhouette is deliberately elongating.

The Roman trade also produced tailors who left. The Cifonelli family came from Rome before establishing in Paris, and the sculpted Parisian shoulder has a Roman ancestor.

The construction

A full canvas built lightly, a shoulder defined but not heavy, a moderately high armhole and a waist cut close. It sits between Milan and Naples in every technical respect, which is exactly how Roman tailors describe it.

What identifies it is length and line rather than any internal feature: a longer coat, a marked waist, a close hip, and proportions cut to elongate.

The formal inheritance

Rome supports more ceremonial tailoring than anywhere else in Italy (clerical dress, morning dress, court and diplomatic clothing), and the discipline of that work runs through the city's civilian cutting.

It shows in the seriousness of the proportions. A Roman coat is not designed to look relaxed, and it does not.

Natural

sem enchimento · segue o corpo

Mole

uma manta fina · uma linha suave

Spalla camicia

manga franzida como numa camisa

Encordoado

cabeça de manga ergue-se em crista

Estendido

construído além do ombro

O ombro, cinco formas Right shoulder, front-on; the dashed line is the wearer’s own. Spalla camicia is the Neapolitan signature. The roped shoulder is Roman and Parisian in origin, and Cifonelli’s is the best known. The extended shoulder belongs to the sharper end of Savile Row and to the Nutters silhouette. The shoulder is where a house’s cut is most visible and hardest to fake, because it is built inside the coat. Diagrama elaborado para Il Sartoriale.

Em síntese

Ombro

Built, but lighter than English or Parisian

Line

Long, lean, close through the body

Peito

Full canvas, lightly built

Armhole

Moderately high

Specialism

Formal, ceremonial and clerical dress

Cidade

Rome

País

Italy

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Créditos fotográficos 3

A long lean Roman-cut jacket: Original art · Il Sartoriale · Il Sartoriale · Il Sartoriale original art
An illustration of the house's recorded cut: soft shoulder, full canvas chest, long roman line. Not a photograph of the house's own work.: Original art · Il Sartoriale · Il Sartoriale · Il Sartoriale original art
Brioniboutique: Photograph · Coolcaesar · Wikimedia Commons · CC BY-SA 3.0

Política de imagens

Roman tailoring ★