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470 entries across tailoring, shoemaking, cloth and craft Reference publication: we sell nothing and rank nobody for payment Every figure carries its source and the date it was checked

Bespoke tailor · London · Founded 1771

Gieves & Hawkes

Gieves & Hawkes, at 1 Savile Row, is a tailor born from two old military firms, known for uniforms, royal warrants and firmly built English jackets.

Gieves & Hawkes occupies 1 Savile Row and descends from two eighteenth-century military and naval tailoring firms merged in 1974. Its history is bound to the British armed forces, it holds royal warrants, and it cuts a structured English coat alongside a substantial ready-to-wear business.

BespokeMade-to-measureReady-to-wear
An illustration of the house's recorded cut: roped shoulder, full canvas chest, structured english. Not a photograph of the house's own work.
An illustration of the house's recorded cut: roped shoulder, full canvas chest, structured english. Not a photograph of the house's own work.
House style Structured English shoulder: roped
Chest full canvas substantial handwork
Fittings 2–4 12–26 weeks
From $7,000 lowest documented, converted

Two firms, one address

Hawkes began as a military tailor and cap maker; Gieves served the Royal Navy. They merged in 1974 and occupy the corner building at 1 Savile Row, formerly the Royal Geographical Society's premises.

Military and naval tailoring is not a decorative history here: uniform work has real technical requirements (precise regulation, structure that must hold under a sword belt or webbing), and the house's civilian cutting descends from it.

Ownership and scale

Gieves & Hawkes has changed corporate hands several times and has a large ready-to-wear and international licensing business alongside the bespoke workshop, particularly in Asia. Bespoke on Savile Row and ready-to-wear under the same name in another market are different products, and it is worth being clear which one you are looking at.

What to ask

Because the name appears on products made in several places to several specifications, the useful questions are the specific ones: is this garment cut on Savile Row, who makes it, and is a paper pattern drafted and kept for me?

The bespoke workshop at Number One is a genuine Savile Row operation and the answers there are straightforward. The same name in a department store in another country is a different product, and the distinction is the customer's to establish.

Natural
no padding · follows the body
Soft
a thin pad · a gentle line
Spalla camicia
sleeve gathered like a shirt
Roped
sleeve head rises in a ridge
Extended
built out past the shoulder
The shoulder, five ways Right shoulder, front-on; the dashed line is the wearer’s own. Spalla camicia is the Neapolitan signature. The roped shoulder is Roman and Parisian in origin, and Cifonelli’s is the best known. The extended shoulder belongs to the sharper end of Savile Row and to the Nutters silhouette. The shoulder is where a house’s cut is most visible and hardest to fake, because it is built inside the coat. Diagram drawn for Il Sartoriale.

The record

Founded
1771The current firm is a 1974 merger of Gieves (naval, from 1785) and Hawkes (military, from 1771); the earlier of the two dates is used.
City
London · 1 Savile Row
Country
United Kingdom
Service levels
Bespoke · Made-to-measure · Ready-to-wear
Shoulder
Roped
Chest construction
Full canvas
Silhouette
Structured English
Handwork
Substantial
Cutting in house
Yes
Sewing in house
No
Made in
London (outworkers)
Fittings
2–4
Lead time
12–26 weeks
Ownership
— not stated by the house
Known for
Savile Row · Military · Ceremonial
Record confidence
MediumHow much of this record rests on primary sources rather than reporting.As of September 2026
Address
1 Savile Row
Origins
Hawkes (military, 1771) and Gieves (naval, 1785); merged 1974
Specialism
Military and ceremonial uniform
Note
Large ready-to-wear and licensed business alongside bespoke
Tradition
Savile Row

What it costs

Prices across the site →

These are not quotations. Prices below are the most recent figures we could attribute to a source, shown in the currency they were published in.

WhatServicePrice TaxObservedBasis
Two-piece bespoke suitAn indicative band, not a quotation. Bespoke entry prices normally exclude tax and cloth beyond the house bunch, and houses raise them without announcement. Bespoke £5,500–8,500 excludes UK VAT September 2026 Estimated-Range
Il Sartoriale compilation from publicly reported figures
Bespoke prices normally exclude cloth beyond a house bunch, alterations after delivery and shipping. Confirm with the house before commissioning.

Houses often considered alongside it

Grouped because they compete for the same commission or work in a comparable idiom: not a ranking, and not an equivalence.

  1. An illustration of the house's recorded cut: roped shoulder, full canvas chest, structured english, military bearing. Not a photograph of the house's own work. Dege & Skinner London · 1865

    Dege & Skinner is a family-owned Savile Row tailor known for military and ceremonial uniforms, and rare in making custom shirts in the same building.
  2. An illustration of the house's recorded cut: soft shoulder, full canvas chest, balanced english; moderate shoulder, natural waist. Not a photograph of the house's own work. Henry Poole & Co London · 1806

    Henry Poole & Co is Savile Row's oldest tailor and made the Prince of Wales's 1865 evening jacket that led to the dinner jacket and tuxedo.
Last reviewed: September 2026 Prices and service details change; this page states the date each figure was observed. Report an error on this page

Related

CityLondon Tailoring styleSavile Row Bespoke tailorDege & Skinner Bespoke tailorHenry Poole & Co ShoemakerJohn Lobb (St James's) Bespoke tailorAnderson & Sheppard Bespoke tailorHuntsman ShoemakerGaziano & Girling Bespoke tailorChittleborough & Morgan Bespoke tailorRichard Anderson Bespoke tailorWhitcomb & Shaftesbury BrandDrake's
Picture credits 3
  1. An illustration of the house's recorded cut: roped shoulder, full canvas chest, structured english. Not a photograph of the house's own work.: Original art · Il Sartoriale · Il Sartoriale · Il Sartoriale original art
  2. An illustration of the house's recorded cut: roped shoulder, full canvas chest, structured english, military bearing. Not a photograph of the house's own work.: Original art · Il Sartoriale · Il Sartoriale · Il Sartoriale original art
  3. An illustration of the house's recorded cut: soft shoulder, full canvas chest, balanced english; moderate shoulder, natural waist. Not a photograph of the house's own work.: Original art · Il Sartoriale · Il Sartoriale · Il Sartoriale original art

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