Saltar para o conteúdo
Il Sartoriale O Mundo da Alta Moda Masculina
★
Il Sartoriale
Começar aqui Alfaiates bespoke Sapateiros Camiseiros Fabricantes e comerciantes de tecidos Tecidos e materiais
Ofício Como se fazem as roupas Estilos de alfaiataria Artesãos História
Vestuário PeçasAcessórios MarcasPessoas
Lugares CidadesPaíses Mapa-múndi
Ferramentas Encontrar um alfaiate ou sapateiroComparações PreçosGlossário AprenderNotícias Consultar o arquivoAgentes de IA ★ GuardadoAPI gratuita
Sobre Sobre nósMetodologia Política editorial Fontes Licenciamento de imagens Como avaliamos CorrecçõesContacto
Definições
Modo escuro
Língua da interface

Vista guiada
É novo aqui? Cada página abre com uma explicação em linguagem corrente antes de entrar em detalhe, e os termos técnicos são desenvolvidos onde surgem.

Opinião especializada
Já conhece o vocabulário. Directamente à substância, com as explicações introdutórias ocultadas. Esta é a predefinição.

★ As suas páginas guardadas
470 entradas sobre alfaiataria, sapataria, tecidos e ofício Publicação de referência: não vendemos nada nem classificamos ninguém mediante pagamento Cada cifra indica a sua fonte e a data em que foi verificada

Alfaiate bespoke · London · Fundada 1771

Gieves & Hawkes

Gieves & Hawkes, at 1 Savile Row, is a tailor born from two old military firms, known for uniforms, royal warrants and firmly built English jackets.

Gieves & Hawkes occupies 1 Savile Row and descends from two eighteenth-century military and naval tailoring firms merged in 1974. Its history is bound to the British armed forces, it holds royal warrants, and it cuts a structured English coat alongside a substantial ready-to-wear business.

BespokeFeito por medidaPronto a vestir
An illustration of the house's recorded cut: roped shoulder, full canvas chest, structured english. Not a photograph of the house's own work.
An illustration of the house's recorded cut: roped shoulder, full canvas chest, structured english. Not a photograph of the house's own work.
Estilo da casa Structured English ombro: roped
Peito full canvas substantial handwork
Provas 2–4 12–26 semanas
De $7,000 mínimo documentado, convertido

Two firms, one address

Hawkes began as a military tailor and cap maker; Gieves served the Royal Navy. They merged in 1974 and occupy the corner building at 1 Savile Row, formerly the Royal Geographical Society's premises.

Military and naval tailoring is not a decorative history here: uniform work has real technical requirements (precise regulation, structure that must hold under a sword belt or webbing), and the house's civilian cutting descends from it.

Ownership and scale

Gieves & Hawkes has changed corporate hands several times and has a large ready-to-wear and international licensing business alongside the bespoke workshop, particularly in Asia. Bespoke on Savile Row and ready-to-wear under the same name in another market are different products, and it is worth being clear which one you are looking at.

What to ask

Because the name appears on products made in several places to several specifications, the useful questions are the specific ones: is this garment cut on Savile Row, who makes it, and is a paper pattern drafted and kept for me?

The bespoke workshop at Number One is a genuine Savile Row operation and the answers there are straightforward. The same name in a department store in another country is a different product, and the distinction is the customer's to establish.

Natural
sem enchimento · segue o corpo
Mole
uma manta fina · uma linha suave
Spalla camicia
manga franzida como numa camisa
Encordoado
cabeça de manga ergue-se em crista
Estendido
construído além do ombro
O ombro, cinco formas Right shoulder, front-on; the dashed line is the wearer’s own. Spalla camicia is the Neapolitan signature. The roped shoulder is Roman and Parisian in origin, and Cifonelli’s is the best known. The extended shoulder belongs to the sharper end of Savile Row and to the Nutters silhouette. The shoulder is where a house’s cut is most visible and hardest to fake, because it is built inside the coat. Diagrama elaborado para Il Sartoriale.

O registo

Fundada
1771The current firm is a 1974 merger of Gieves (naval, from 1785) and Hawkes (military, from 1771); the earlier of the two dates is used.
Cidade
London · 1 Savile Row
Service levels
Bespoke · Made-to-measure · Ready-to-wear
Ombro
Roped
Chest construction
Full canvas
Silhouette
Structured English
Handwork
Substantial
Cutting in house
Yes
Sewing in house
No
Feito em
London (outworkers)
Provas
2–4
Lead time
12–26 weeks
Ownership
— não declarado pela casa
Conhecido por
Savile Row · Military · Ceremonial
Record confidence
MediumEm que medida este registo assenta em fontes primárias em vez de reportagem.A partir de September 2026
Address
1 Savile Row
Origins
Hawkes (military, 1771) and Gieves (naval, 1785); merged 1974
Specialism
Military and ceremonial uniform
Note
Large ready-to-wear and licensed business alongside bespoke
Tradition

Estes não são orçamentos. Os preços abaixo são as cifras mais recentes que conseguimos atribuir a uma fonte, apresentadas na moeda em que foram publicadas.

O quêServiçoPreço ImpostoObservadoBase
Two-piece bespoke suitAn indicative band, not a quotation. Bespoke entry prices normally exclude tax and cloth beyond the house bunch, and houses raise them without announcement. Bespoke £5,500–8,500 excludes UK VAT September 2026 Estimated-Range
Il Sartoriale compilation from publicly reported figures
Os preços bespoke excluem normalmente o pano além do bunch da casa, as alterações após a entrega e o envio. Confirme com a casa antes de encomendar.

Casas frequentemente consideradas a par desta

Agrupadas por concorrerem à mesma encomenda ou trabalharem num idioma comparável: não é uma classificação, nem uma equivalência.

  1. An illustration of the house's recorded cut: roped shoulder, full canvas chest, structured english, military bearing. Not a photograph of the house's own work. Dege & Skinner London · 1865

    Dege & Skinner is a family-owned Savile Row tailor known for military and ceremonial uniforms, and rare in making custom shirts in the same building.

  2. An illustration of the house's recorded cut: soft shoulder, full canvas chest, balanced english; moderate shoulder, natural waist. Not a photograph of the house's own work. Henry Poole & Co London · 1806

    Henry Poole & Co is Savile Row's oldest tailor and made the Prince of Wales's 1865 evening jacket that led to the dinner jacket and tuxedo.

Última revisão: September 2026 Preços e condições de serviço mudam; esta página indica a data em que cada cifra foi observada. Comunicar um erro nesta página
Créditos fotográficos 3
  1. An illustration of the house's recorded cut: roped shoulder, full canvas chest, structured english. Not a photograph of the house's own work.: Original art · Il Sartoriale · Il Sartoriale · Il Sartoriale original art
  2. An illustration of the house's recorded cut: roped shoulder, full canvas chest, structured english, military bearing. Not a photograph of the house's own work.: Original art · Il Sartoriale · Il Sartoriale · Il Sartoriale original art
  3. An illustration of the house's recorded cut: soft shoulder, full canvas chest, balanced english; moderate shoulder, natural waist. Not a photograph of the house's own work.: Original art · Il Sartoriale · Il Sartoriale · Il Sartoriale original art

Política de imagens