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Techniek · Construction

The roped shoulder

The sleeve head lifted slightly proud of the shoulder line: the opposite decision to the Neapolitan one.

A roped shoulder has extra material in the sleeve head that lifts the top of the sleeve above the shoulder seam, producing a raised ridge. It squares and lengthens the shoulder line and is characteristic of English and Milanese tailoring; the Parisian version is more sculpted still.

A roped shoulder with a raised sleeve head
A roped shoulder with a raised sleeve head

How it is made

A strip of wadding or felt (the sleeve head roll) is inserted into the top of the sleeve, and the sleeve is set so that it stands slightly above the shoulder seam rather than falling from it. The amount of lift is a house decision and can range from a whisper to a pronounced ridge.

The effect is to square the shoulder and make it look wider and straighter. On a sloping or narrow shoulder it is genuinely corrective; on a naturally square one it can look military, which some houses intend.

The Parisian variant

Cifonelli and the Parisian houses build rather than simply pad: layers shaped so the shoulder rises and rolls into the sleeve in a continuous curve. It is more sculptural than an English rope and considerably more labour, and it is the detail Parisian tailoring is most identified by.

How much rope

The amount of lift varies enormously between houses and is one of the clearest ways to identify a maker. A light English rope is a millimetre or two and reads as crispness; a Neapolitan house doing a rollino will produce a soft raised curve; a strongly built Parisian shoulder rises further and rolls into the sleeve.

None of it is structural in the sense of holding the coat up. It is shaping the silhouette, and how much of it a wearer can carry depends entirely on his own shoulders.

Natuurlijk
geen vulling · volgt het lichaam
Zacht
een lichte vulling · een rustige lijn
Spalla camicia
mouw geplooid als een overhemd
Touwschouder
mouwhoogte vormt een richel
Uitgebouwd
uitgebouwd voorbij de schouder
De schouder, vijf varianten Right shoulder, front-on; the dashed line is the wearer’s own. Spalla camicia is the Neapolitan signature. The roped shoulder is Roman and Parisian in origin, and Cifonelli’s is the best known. The extended shoulder belongs to the sharper end of Savile Row and to the Nutters silhouette. The shoulder is where a house’s cut is most visible and hardest to fake, because it is built inside the coat. Diagram getekend voor Il Sartoriale.

In één oogopslag

Effect
Raised ridge at the sleeve head; squares the shoulder
Associated with
Savile Row, Milan, Paris
Opposite of
Spalla camicia

Wie ermee werkt

Huizen en molens op deze site met een gedocumenteerde relatie met The roped shoulder.

An illustration of the house's recorded cut: roped shoulder, full canvas chest, sculpted shoulder, very clean close chest, high waist. Not a photograph of the house's own work. 01 Kleermaker op maat

Cifonelli

Cifonelli is a Paris tailoring firm, founded by a Roman family in the 1920s, famous for a padded, rounded shoulder and a very close-fitting chest.

 An illustration of the house's recorded cut: roped shoulder, full canvas chest, wide peaked lapel, nipped waist, flared skirt. Not a photograph of the house's own work. 02 Kleermaker op maat

Edward Sexton

Edward Sexton is the house of the tailor who shook up Savile Row in 1969, still making bold jackets with huge lapels, strong shoulders, nipped waists.

 A sculpted Parisian roped shoulder 03 Kleedstijl

Parisian tailoring

The most sculptural shoulder in tailoring, over the cleanest possible chest.

 A structured English-cut coat on a dummy 04 Kleedstijl

Savile Row

Savile Row jackets are shaped by hand around a horsehair and wool inner layer, giving defined shoulders, a nipped waist and an upright look for decades.

 A shoulder with the sleeve head gathered like a shirt 05 Techniek

Spalla camicia (the shirt shoulder)

A sleeve set into a jacket the way a sleeve is set into a shirt: inside out, with the fullness gathered.

 A sleeve being set into an armhole by hand 06 Techniek

The hand-set sleeve

The one seam that most rewards a person doing it, because it is the one seam that has to be eased.
  1. The Knize shop on the Graben, Vienna: the 1913 Adolf Loos shopfront in black Swedish granite with the brass lettering Knize Kleermaker op maat · Vienna · 1858

    A Viennese house behind an Adolf Loos shopfront, cutting a shoulder nobody else cuts.
  2. Sleeve-head roll Glossariumterm

    A strip of wadding inside the top of a sleeve, lifting it slightly above the shoulder seam. What produces a roped shoulder; distinct from a shoulder pad, which sits in the…
  3. Con rollino Glossariumterm

    Italian for a lightly roped sleeve head: a small roll where the sleeve meets the shoulder, less pronounced than an English rope. Common in Milanese and Roman work.
  4. Lorenzo and Massimo Cifonelli Vakman · Paris

    Lorenzo and Massimo Cifonelli are cousins running the family's Paris tailoring house, famous for a built-up shoulder that rolls into the sleeve instead of sitting flat.
  5. Shoulder expression Glossariumterm

    A trade term for the whole treatment of the shoulder (padding, extension, the sleeve head) considered together. A house's shoulder expression is the single most identifying thing…
  6. Shoulder pad Glossariumterm

    A shaped wadding inserted at the shoulder to build up or square the line. English and Milanese coats use a modest one; Neapolitan coats usually none. Not the same thing as the…
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Gerelateerd

GlossariumtermSleeve-head roll Kleermaker op maatCifonelli GlossariumtermCon rollino VakmanLorenzo and Massimo Cifonelli Kleermaker op maatEdward Sexton KleedstijlParisian tailoring KleedstijlSavile Row GlossariumtermShoulder expression GlossariumtermShoulder pad TechniekSpalla camicia (the shirt shoulder) TechniekThe hand-set sleeve Kleermaker op maatKnize
Fotorechten 8
  1. A roped shoulder with a raised sleeve head: Original art · Il Sartoriale · Il Sartoriale · Il Sartoriale original art
  2. An illustration of the house's recorded cut: roped shoulder, full canvas chest, sculpted shoulder, very clean close chest, high waist. Not a photograph of the house's own work.: Original art · Il Sartoriale · Il Sartoriale · Il Sartoriale original art
  3. An illustration of the house's recorded cut: roped shoulder, full canvas chest, wide peaked lapel, nipped waist, flared skirt. Not a photograph of the house's own work.: Original art · Il Sartoriale · Il Sartoriale · Il Sartoriale original art
  4. A sculpted Parisian roped shoulder: Original art · Il Sartoriale · Il Sartoriale · Il Sartoriale original art
  5. A structured English-cut coat on a dummy: Original art · Il Sartoriale · Il Sartoriale · Il Sartoriale original art
  6. A shoulder with the sleeve head gathered like a shirt: Original art · Il Sartoriale · Il Sartoriale · Il Sartoriale original art
  7. A sleeve being set into an armhole by hand: Original art · Il Sartoriale · Il Sartoriale · Il Sartoriale original art
  8. Knize cossa: Photograph · C. Cossa · Wikimedia Commons · CC BY-SA 3.0 at

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