Техника · Construction
The roped shoulder
The sleeve head lifted slightly proud of the shoulder line: the opposite decision to the Neapolitan one.
A roped shoulder has extra material in the sleeve head that lifts the top of the sleeve above the shoulder seam, producing a raised ridge. It squares and lengthens the shoulder line and is characteristic of English and Milanese tailoring; the Parisian version is more sculpted still.
How it is made
A strip of wadding or felt (the sleeve head roll) is inserted into the top of the sleeve, and the sleeve is set so that it stands slightly above the shoulder seam rather than falling from it. The amount of lift is a house decision and can range from a whisper to a pronounced ridge.
The effect is to square the shoulder and make it look wider and straighter. On a sloping or narrow shoulder it is genuinely corrective; on a naturally square one it can look military, which some houses intend.
The Parisian variant
Cifonelli and the Parisian houses build rather than simply pad: layers shaped so the shoulder rises and rolls into the sleeve in a continuous curve. It is more sculptural than an English rope and considerably more labour, and it is the detail Parisian tailoring is most identified by.
How much rope
The amount of lift varies enormously between houses and is one of the clearest ways to identify a maker. A light English rope is a millimetre or two and reads as crispness; a Neapolitan house doing a rollino will produce a soft raised curve; a strongly built Parisian shoulder rises further and rolls into the sleeve.
None of it is structural in the sense of holding the coat up. It is shaping the silhouette, and how much of it a wearer can carry depends entirely on his own shoulders.
Вкратце
Кто с этим работает
Дома и мануфактуры на этом сайте, имеющие задокументированную связь с The roped shoulder.
01
Портной, работающий на заказ Cifonelli
Cifonelli is a Paris tailoring firm, founded by a Roman family in the 1920s, famous for a padded, rounded shoulder and a very close-fitting chest.
02
Портной, работающий на заказ Edward Sexton
Edward Sexton is the house of the tailor who shook up Savile Row in 1969, still making bold jackets with huge lapels, strong shoulders, nipped waists.
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Стиль пошива Parisian tailoring
The most sculptural shoulder in tailoring, over the cleanest possible chest.
04
Стиль пошива Savile Row
Savile Row jackets are shaped by hand around a horsehair and wool inner layer, giving defined shoulders, a nipped waist and an upright look for decades.
05
Техника Spalla camicia (the shirt shoulder)
A sleeve set into a jacket the way a sleeve is set into a shirt: inside out, with the fullness gathered.
06
Техника The hand-set sleeve
The one seam that most rewards a person doing it, because it is the one seam that has to be eased.
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Knize
Портной, работающий на заказ · Vienna · 1858A Viennese house behind an Adolf Loos shopfront, cutting a shoulder nobody else cuts.
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Sleeve-head roll
Термин глоссария
A strip of wadding inside the top of a sleeve, lifting it slightly above the shoulder seam. What produces a roped shoulder; distinct from a shoulder pad, which sits in the…
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Con rollino
Термин глоссария
Italian for a lightly roped sleeve head: a small roll where the sleeve meets the shoulder, less pronounced than an English rope. Common in Milanese and Roman work.
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Lorenzo and Massimo Cifonelli
Мастер · Paris
Lorenzo and Massimo Cifonelli are cousins running the family's Paris tailoring house, famous for a built-up shoulder that rolls into the sleeve instead of sitting flat.
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Shoulder expression
Термин глоссария
A trade term for the whole treatment of the shoulder (padding, extension, the sleeve head) considered together. A house's shoulder expression is the single most identifying thing…
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Shoulder pad
Термин глоссария
A shaped wadding inserted at the shoulder to build up or square the line. English and Milanese coats use a modest one; Neapolitan coats usually none. Not the same thing as the…
Фотографии 8
- A roped shoulder with a raised sleeve head: Original art · Il Sartoriale · Il Sartoriale · Il Sartoriale original art
- An illustration of the house's recorded cut: roped shoulder, full canvas chest, sculpted shoulder, very clean close chest, high waist. Not a photograph of the house's own work.: Original art · Il Sartoriale · Il Sartoriale · Il Sartoriale original art
- An illustration of the house's recorded cut: roped shoulder, full canvas chest, wide peaked lapel, nipped waist, flared skirt. Not a photograph of the house's own work.: Original art · Il Sartoriale · Il Sartoriale · Il Sartoriale original art
- A sculpted Parisian roped shoulder: Original art · Il Sartoriale · Il Sartoriale · Il Sartoriale original art
- A structured English-cut coat on a dummy: Original art · Il Sartoriale · Il Sartoriale · Il Sartoriale original art
- A shoulder with the sleeve head gathered like a shirt: Original art · Il Sartoriale · Il Sartoriale · Il Sartoriale original art
- A sleeve being set into an armhole by hand: Original art · Il Sartoriale · Il Sartoriale · Il Sartoriale original art
- Knize cossa: Photograph · C. Cossa · Wikimedia Commons · CC BY-SA 3.0 at