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Lorenzo and Massimo Cifonelli are cousins running the family's Paris tailoring house, famous for a built-up shoulder that rolls into the sleeve instead of sitting flat.

Vincenzo Attolini was the Naples cutter credited with the soft Neapolitan jacket, made without shoulder padding and with almost no inner stiffening.

Gennaro Rubinacci was not a tailor but a cloth collector who opened London House in Naples in 1932 and hired Vincenzo Attolini to cut.

Antonio Liverano is a Florence tailor whose soft-shouldered jacket with very wide lapels defines the Florentine style and has shaped many Japanese and Korean makers.

Ciro Paone founded Kiton in 1968, using top cloth and hundreds of trained tailors to make hand-tailored suits in volume without lowering quality.

Trained at Rubinacci, and cuts the version of the Neapolitan coat that existed before the world noticed.

Edward Sexton was a London tailor, first at Nutters of Savile Row, whose jackets had huge pointed lapels, high strong shoulders and a tightly pulled-in waist.

Sixty years in the London shoe trade before he opened under his own name, and one last shape that outlived him.

Mechanised the welt in the 1870s and made a repairable shoe affordable.

Patented the bias-cut tie in the 1920s, and every tie since has followed it.