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도시 · United Kingdom

London

London's Savile Row holds the world's oldest still-trading tailoring houses, cutting jackets with a firm chest and defined shoulder, with shoemakers and shirtmakers close by.

London is where bespoke tailoring as we understand it was formalised. Savile Row and the streets around it hold the oldest continuously trading tailoring houses in the world, cutting a structured, canvassed coat with a defined shoulder. The city also holds England's bespoke shoemakers and its shirtmakers, mostly within the same square mile.

Savile Row, London — the street where bespoke tailoring was formalised
Savile Row , a shopping street in London
비스포크 테일러들11
구두 장인3
셔츠 메이커3
하우스 방문11 피팅을 위해 방문 가능

The Row

Savile Row runs about two hundred metres through Mayfair. Tailors began moving in around 1800 (Henry Poole arrived on the corner in the 1840s), and the street's reputation was built on military and court work before it was built on anything else. The word bespoke comes from cloth being “spoken for” by a customer, and the distinction it draws (a pattern cut for one person, from scratch) is still the one that matters.

The houses are not variations on a theme. Anderson & Sheppard, on Old Burlington Street, cuts the drape: a soft coat with fullness across the chest and blades, descended from Frederick Scholte and the Duke of Windsor's tailoring. Huntsman cuts the opposite: lean, structured, famously a one-button coat with a high waist and military bearing. Henry Poole, Dege & Skinner, Gieves & Hawkes and Kilgour each have their own position, and a customer choosing between them is choosing a silhouette, not a price point.

What London builds into a coat

A London coat is engineered. Horsehair canvas is pad-stitched by hand to shape the chest and lapel; the shoulder is defined and often lightly padded; the sleeve head may be roped; the waist is suppressed and the skirt is cut long enough to cover the seat. In heavy English cloth this produces a garment that keeps its shape for decades and can be let out, taken in and recut as the owner changes.

The trade's own division of labour is worth knowing about, because it explains the price. The cutter takes the measurements, drafts the pattern and conducts the fittings; the coat is then made by a coatmaker, the trousers by a trouser maker, the waistcoat by a third specialist, traditionally all working piece-rate, often at home. A single coat represents somewhere in the region of fifty hours of skilled hand labour.

Shoes and shirts

London's bespoke shoemakers sit mostly in St James's and Mayfair: John Lobb on St James's Street, George Cleverley in the Royal Arcade, Foster & Son, and others. A bespoke commission means a last carved to the individual foot, a trial shoe, then hand-welted construction, and typically the better part of a year.

Jermyn Street is the shirt street, though the term covers a wide range: several of its names are now ready-to-wear businesses with a made-to-measure service, while genuine bespoke shirtmaking (a paper pattern cut for one customer, hand-attached collar, hand-sewn buttonholes, is done by a smaller number of firms, some of them off the street rather than on it.

Commissioning here

Expect two to four fittings, four to six months for a first commission, and a price at the top of the international range: Mayfair rents and fifty hours of London labour are what you are paying for. Most houses will ask for a deposit and will not quote a final figure until the cloth is chosen, since cloth is a substantial and variable part of the cost.

A first-time customer is best served by looking at finished coats rather than by asking about construction. Every house on the street will tell you it uses full canvas and hand-padded lapels, because every house does. What differs is the shape, and the shape is visible.

Worth seeing

  • Savile Row itself; several houses have workrooms visible from the pavement or the basement window.
  • The Victoria and Albert Museum's fashion collection, which holds significant English tailoring.
  • Fox Brothers, Huddersfield and West of England cloth in the merchants' showrooms around Golden Square.
  • Northampton, an hour by train, for the shoemaking factories and their factory shops.

이미지

비스포크 테일러들 ~에서 London

전체 비스포크 테일러들 →
  1. An illustration of the house's recorded cut: roped shoulder, full canvas chest, lean, structured, clean chest. Not a photograph of the house's own work. Richard Anderson London · 2001

    Huntsman-trained cutters who opened their own door on the Row in 2001.

  2. An illustration of the house's recorded cut: roped shoulder, full canvas chest, strongly shaped, high waist, distinctive lapel. Not a photograph of the house's own work. Chittleborough & Morgan London

    The other inheritors of Nutters, cutting a coat with more shape than almost anyone.

  3. An illustration of the house's recorded cut: natural shoulder, full canvas chest, drape: soft, full chest. Not a photograph of the house's own work. Steven Hitchcock London

    The drape cut, carried on outside Anderson & Sheppard by a tailor who grew up in it.

  4. An illustration of the house's recorded cut: soft shoulder, full canvas chest, soft english, close and contemporary. Not a photograph of the house's own work. Thom Sweeney London

    A younger London house cutting a softer, more Italian-inflected English coat.

  5. An illustration of the house's recorded cut: soft shoulder, full canvas chest, english. Not a photograph of the house's own work. Whitcomb & Shaftesbury London

    A London house that says out loud what several others do quietly: some of the making happens in India.

구두 장인 ~에서 London

전체 구두 장인 →

셔츠 메이커 ~에서 London

전체 셔츠 메이커 →

Brands based here ~에서 London

전체 브랜드 →
  1. Drake's London · 1977

    Drake's is a London tie maker turned full menswear brand, known for relaxed, softly made clothes in English cloth with little shoulder padding.

출장 피팅을 제공하는 하우스 London

이 하우스들은 이곳에서 트렁크 쇼를 개최합니다: 자체 작업실 외부에서 피팅과 주문을 받습니다. 일정은 하우스에 직접 확인하십시오; 변경될 수 있습니다.

하우스대략호스팅 제공체크
B&Tailor —— —
D'Avino —— —
Liverano & Liverano —— —
Luca Avitabile —— —
Musella Dembech —— —
Rubinacci —— —
Sartoria Ciardi —— —
Sartoria Dalcuore —— —
Sartoria Solito —— —
Simone Abbarchi —— —
Yohei Fukuda —— —

지역적 특성

실용적 참고사항

Tradition
English: structured, canvassed, defined shoulder
Principal streets
Savile Row, Old Burlington Street, Sackville Street, Clifford Street; St James's for shoes; Jermyn Street for shirts
Typical fittings
2–4 for a first commission
Trade body
Savile Row Bespoke AssociationVoluntary membership; sets minimum hand-work standards.

다른 곳에서 United Kingdom

최종 검토: September 2026 이 페이지의 오류 신고

출처

  1. Savile Row Bespoke Association , Savile Row Bespoke Association.
  2. Fashion collection , Victoria and Albert Museum.

수치가 이견의 여지가 있거나 하우스가 공개하지 않은 경우, 이 페이지는 수치를 임의로 선택하지 않고 그 사실을 명시합니다.

사진 크레딧 31
  1. Savile Row 1: Photograph · User:Edward · Wikimedia Commons · Public domain
  2. Piccadilly Arcade, December 2015 02: Photograph · Edwardx · Wikimedia Commons · CC BY-SA 4.0
  3. 88 St James's Street, London - 2023-05-04: Photograph · The wub · Wikimedia Commons · CC BY-SA 4.0
  4. Piccadilly Arcade, December 2015 01: Photograph · Edwardx · Wikimedia Commons · CC BY-SA 4.0
  5. Old Bond Street 904: Photograph · Michel wal · Wikimedia Commons · CC BY-SA 3.0
  6. 2 Old Burlington Street, Mayfair, May 2022 01: Photograph · No Swan So Fine · Wikimedia Commons · CC BY-SA 4.0
  7. St James's Street Walking Sign: Photograph · sebastiandoe5 · Wikimedia Commons · CC BY-SA 2.0
  8. No 3, Savile Row door and sign: Photograph · VirtuallyLondonBecky · Wikimedia Commons · CC0
  9. Hardy Amies 2017: Photograph · Toxophilus · Wikimedia Commons · CC BY-SA 4.0
  10. Savile Row W1 (36359218336): Photograph · Maggie Jones from London, England · Wikimedia Commons · Public domain
  11. 7 Burlington Gardens, Mayfair, May 2022: Photograph · No Swan So Fine · Wikimedia Commons · CC BY-SA 4.0
  12. Looking west along Jermyn Street September 2022: Photograph · Nick-D · Wikimedia Commons · CC BY-SA 4.0
  13. Mayfair - Savile Row - geograph.org.uk - 7486255: Photograph · Colin Smith · Wikimedia Commons · CC BY-SA 2.0
  14. Savile Street by Horwood 1819: Historical view · Richard Horwood · Wikimedia Commons · Public domain
  15. An illustration of the house's recorded cut: natural shoulder, full canvas chest, drape: soft, full chest, long skirt. Not a photograph of the house's own work.: Original art · Il Sartoriale · Il Sartoriale · Il Sartoriale original art
  16. An illustration of the house's recorded cut: roped shoulder, full canvas chest, lean, high-waisted, single button. Not a photograph of the house's own work.: Original art · Il Sartoriale · Il Sartoriale · Il Sartoriale original art
  17. An illustration of the house's recorded cut: soft shoulder, full canvas chest, balanced english; moderate shoulder, natural waist. Not a photograph of the house's own work.: Original art · Il Sartoriale · Il Sartoriale · Il Sartoriale original art
  18. An illustration of the house's recorded cut: roped shoulder, full canvas chest, structured english. Not a photograph of the house's own work.: Original art · Il Sartoriale · Il Sartoriale · Il Sartoriale original art
  19. An illustration of the house's recorded cut: roped shoulder, full canvas chest, structured english, military bearing. Not a photograph of the house's own work.: Original art · Il Sartoriale · Il Sartoriale · Il Sartoriale original art
  20. An illustration of the house's recorded cut: roped shoulder, full canvas chest, wide peaked lapel, nipped waist, flared skirt. Not a photograph of the house's own work.: Original art · Il Sartoriale · Il Sartoriale · Il Sartoriale original art
  21. An illustration of the house's recorded cut: roped shoulder, full canvas chest, lean, structured, clean chest. Not a photograph of the house's own work.: Original art · Il Sartoriale · Il Sartoriale · Il Sartoriale original art
  22. An illustration of the house's recorded cut: roped shoulder, full canvas chest, strongly shaped, high waist, distinctive lapel. Not a photograph of the house's own work.: Original art · Il Sartoriale · Il Sartoriale · Il Sartoriale original art
  23. An illustration of the house's recorded cut: natural shoulder, full canvas chest, drape: soft, full chest. Not a photograph of the house's own work.: Original art · Il Sartoriale · Il Sartoriale · Il Sartoriale original art
  24. An illustration of the house's recorded cut: soft shoulder, full canvas chest, soft english, close and contemporary. Not a photograph of the house's own work.: Original art · Il Sartoriale · Il Sartoriale · Il Sartoriale original art
  25. An illustration of the house's recorded cut: soft shoulder, full canvas chest, english. Not a photograph of the house's own work.: Original art · Il Sartoriale · Il Sartoriale · Il Sartoriale original art
  26. Store front of John Lobb, 88 Jermyn St, London: Photograph · OlafJanssen · Wikimedia Commons · CC BY-SA 3.0
  27. An illustration of a welted shoe of the kind the house makes. Not a photograph of the house's own work.: Original art · Il Sartoriale · Il Sartoriale · Il Sartoriale original art
  28. An illustration of a welted shoe of the kind the house makes. Not a photograph of the house's own work.: Original art · Il Sartoriale · Il Sartoriale · Il Sartoriale original art
  29. Turnbull & Asser, St James's, October 2021: Photograph · No Swan So Fine · Wikimedia Commons · CC BY-SA 4.0
  30. Piccadilly Arcade, December 2015 03: Photograph · Edwardx · Wikimedia Commons · CC BY-SA 4.0
  31. An illustration of a shirt of the kind the house makes. Not a photograph of the house's own work.: Original art · Il Sartoriale · Il Sartoriale · Il Sartoriale original art

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