10 записи

Стили пошива

A tailoring style is the way a city's tailors tend to cut a jacket: how much padding goes in the shoulder, how structured the chest is, how closely it follows the body. Once you know the styles you can tell a Naples jacket from a London one across a room, and you know which one to ask for. These pages put them side by side.

France

1 записи

Parisian tailoring Paris
The most sculptural shoulder in tailoring, over the cleanest possible chest.

Italy

4 записи

Neapolitan tailoring

Neapolitan jackets are as light and soft as possible, with little shoulder padding, gathered sleeves and a high armhole, and are the world's most copied style.

Milanese tailoring

Milanese jackets are the most English of Italian styles, with defined shoulders, a nipped waist, a full inner layer and a clean, understated finish.

A round, wide-lapelled Florentine-cut jacket

Florentine tailoring

Florentine jackets look rounded, with wide curved lapels, a full chest and soft shoulders, shaped by the cut of the fabric panels rather than extra seams.

Roman tailoring

A long lean line, lightly built: the middle position, argued for with Roman confidence.

Japan

1 записи

Japanese bespoke Tokyo
European method treated as discipline: frequently more orthodox than the tradition it came from.

South Korea

1 записи

Contemporary Korean tailoring Seoul
A Neapolitan method re-cut for a different body, by a trade that is barely fifteen years old.

United Kingdom

1 записи

Savile Row London
Savile Row jackets are shaped by hand around a horsehair and wool inner layer, giving defined shoulders, a nipped waist and an upright look for decades.

United States

2 записи

Фотографии 10

A sculpted Parisian roped shoulder: Original art · Il Sartoriale · Il Sartoriale · Il Sartoriale original art
A soft Neapolitan-cut jacket on a dummy: Original art · Il Sartoriale · Il Sartoriale · Il Sartoriale original art
A clean Milanese-cut jacket on a dummy: Original art · Il Sartoriale · Il Sartoriale · Il Sartoriale original art
A round, wide-lapelled Florentine-cut jacket: Original art · Il Sartoriale · Il Sartoriale · Il Sartoriale original art
A long lean Roman-cut jacket: Original art · Il Sartoriale · Il Sartoriale · Il Sartoriale original art
A precisely finished grey suit on a stand: Original art · Il Sartoriale · Il Sartoriale · Il Sartoriale original art
A soft-shouldered jacket on a modern stand: Original art · Il Sartoriale · Il Sartoriale · Il Sartoriale original art
A structured English-cut coat on a dummy: Original art · Il Sartoriale · Il Sartoriale · Il Sartoriale original art
A natural-shoulder sack jacket: Original art · Il Sartoriale · Il Sartoriale · Il Sartoriale original art
Oxford shirt, repp tie, shetland and loafers: Original art · Il Sartoriale · Il Sartoriale · Il Sartoriale original art

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