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470 entries across tailoring, shoemaking, cloth and craft Reference publication: we sell nothing and rank nobody for payment Every figure carries its source and the date it was checked

Bespoke tailor · London · Founded 1806

Henry Poole & Co

Henry Poole & Co is Savile Row's oldest tailor and made the Prince of Wales's 1865 evening jacket that led to the dinner jacket and tuxedo.

Henry Poole & Co is the longest-established tailoring house on Savile Row and holds ledgers going back to the nineteenth century. It made the short evening coat for the Prince of Wales in 1865 from which the dinner jacket and the American tuxedo descend, and it cuts a balanced coat between the drape and clean-cut extremes.

BespokeTravels for fittings
An illustration of the house's recorded cut: soft shoulder, full canvas chest, balanced english; moderate shoulder, natural waist. Not a photograph of the house's own work.
An illustration of the house's recorded cut: soft shoulder, full canvas chest, balanced english; moderate shoulder, natural waist. Not a photograph of the house's own work.
House style Balanced English; moderate shoulder, natural waist shoulder: soft
Chest full canvas extensive handwork
Fittings 2–4 12–26 weeks
From $7,700 lowest documented, converted

The ledgers

Poole's records are the most complete documentary history of Savile Row that exists: order books recording what was made, for whom, in what cloth, over more than a century and a half. They are the reason a great deal of what is known about nineteenth-century tailoring is known at all.

The firm dates itself to 1806 and moved into the Savile Row premises in the 1840s, which makes it the founding presence on the street.

The dinner jacket

In 1865 Poole made a short smoking coat in blue silk for the Prince of Wales, later Edward VII, to wear at Sandringham instead of a tailcoat. The story of how that garment reached America, via a guest who had one made and wore it at the Tuxedo Park club in New York, is the reason Americans call it a tuxedo.

The claim is unusually well documented for a menswear origin story, because Poole's ledgers record the order. Most such stories are not.

The house style

Poole sits between the two Row extremes: more structure than Anderson & Sheppard, less severity than Huntsman. A moderately built shoulder, a full canvassed chest, a natural waist. The house's history in court and livery tailoring is still visible in its formal work, which is a genuine specialism rather than a sideline.

Natural
no padding · follows the body
Soft
a thin pad · a gentle line
Spalla camicia
sleeve gathered like a shirt
Roped
sleeve head rises in a ridge
Extended
built out past the shoulder
The shoulder, five ways Right shoulder, front-on; the dashed line is the wearer’s own. Spalla camicia is the Neapolitan signature. The roped shoulder is Roman and Parisian in origin, and Cifonelli’s is the best known. The extended shoulder belongs to the sharper end of Savile Row and to the Nutters silhouette. The shoulder is where a house’s cut is most visible and hardest to fake, because it is built inside the coat. Diagram drawn for Il Sartoriale.

The record

Founded
1806The firm dates itself from 1806; it moved to Savile Row in the 1840s.
City
London · 15 Savile Row
Country
Service levels
Bespoke
Shoulder
Soft
Chest construction
Full canvas
Silhouette
Balanced English; moderate shoulder, natural waist
Handwork
Extensive
Cutting in house
Yes
Sewing in house
No
Made in
London (outworkers)
Fittings
2–4
Lead time
12–26 weeks
Ownership
— not stated by the house
Known for
Savile Row · Formal Wear · Livery
Record confidence
HighHow much of this record rests on primary sources rather than reporting.As of September 2026
Address
15 Savile Row
Documented first
The 1865 short evening coat for the Prince of Wales
Archive
Order ledgers spanning over 150 years
Specialism
Court, livery and formal tailoring
Tradition

These are not quotations. Prices below are the most recent figures we could attribute to a source, shown in the currency they were published in.

WhatServicePrice TaxObservedBasis
Two-piece bespoke suitAn indicative band, not a quotation. Bespoke entry prices normally exclude tax and cloth beyond the house bunch, and houses raise them without announcement. Bespoke £6,000–9,000 excludes UK VAT September 2026 Estimated-Range
Il Sartoriale compilation from publicly reported figures
Bespoke prices normally exclude cloth beyond a house bunch, alterations after delivery and shipping. Confirm with the house before commissioning.

Trunk shows let a house take orders and hold fittings away from its own workshop. Dates move; treat this as the pattern, not a calendar, and confirm with the house.

CityRoughlyHosted byChecked
New YorkDocumented as travelling here for fittings. Schedules change; confirm directly with the house. — — —
TokyoDocumented as travelling here for fittings. Schedules change; confirm directly with the house. — — —

Houses often considered alongside it

Grouped because they compete for the same commission or work in a comparable idiom: not a ranking, and not an equivalence.

Last reviewed: September 2026 Prices and service details change; this page states the date each figure was observed. Report an error on this page

Sources

  1. House history and archive , Henry Poole & Co.

Where a figure is disputed or a house has not published it, the page says so rather than choosing a number.

Picture credits 4
  1. An illustration of the house's recorded cut: soft shoulder, full canvas chest, balanced english; moderate shoulder, natural waist. Not a photograph of the house's own work.: Original art · Il Sartoriale · Il Sartoriale · Il Sartoriale original art
  2. An illustration of the house's recorded cut: natural shoulder, full canvas chest, drape: soft, full chest, long skirt. Not a photograph of the house's own work.: Original art · Il Sartoriale · Il Sartoriale · Il Sartoriale original art
  3. An illustration of the house's recorded cut: roped shoulder, full canvas chest, structured english. Not a photograph of the house's own work.: Original art · Il Sartoriale · Il Sartoriale · Il Sartoriale original art
  4. An illustration of the house's recorded cut: roped shoulder, full canvas chest, lean, high-waisted, single button. Not a photograph of the house's own work.: Original art · Il Sartoriale · Il Sartoriale · Il Sartoriale original art

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