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手工定制裁缝 · London · 创立于 1806

Henry Poole & Co

Henry Poole & Co is Savile Row's oldest tailor and made the Prince of Wales's 1865 evening jacket that led to the dinner jacket and tuxedo.

Henry Poole & Co is the longest-established tailoring house on Savile Row and holds ledgers going back to the nineteenth century. It made the short evening coat for the Prince of Wales in 1865 from which the dinner jacket and the American tuxedo descend, and it cuts a balanced coat between the drape and clean-cut extremes.

全定制前往试衣
An illustration of the house's recorded cut: soft shoulder, full canvas chest, balanced english; moderate shoulder, natural waist. Not a photograph of the house's own work.
An illustration of the house's recorded cut: soft shoulder, full canvas chest, balanced english; moderate shoulder, natural waist. Not a photograph of the house's own work.
店号风格 Balanced English; moderate shoulder, natural waist 肩部: soft
胸围 full canvas extensive handwork
试穿 2–4 12–26 周
来自 $7,700 已记录最低价,经换算

The ledgers

Poole's records are the most complete documentary history of Savile Row that exists: order books recording what was made, for whom, in what cloth, over more than a century and a half. They are the reason a great deal of what is known about nineteenth-century tailoring is known at all.

The firm dates itself to 1806 and moved into the Savile Row premises in the 1840s, which makes it the founding presence on the street.

The dinner jacket

In 1865 Poole made a short smoking coat in blue silk for the Prince of Wales, later Edward VII, to wear at Sandringham instead of a tailcoat. The story of how that garment reached America, via a guest who had one made and wore it at the Tuxedo Park club in New York, is the reason Americans call it a tuxedo.

The claim is unusually well documented for a menswear origin story, because Poole's ledgers record the order. Most such stories are not.

The house style

Poole sits between the two Row extremes: more structure than Anderson & Sheppard, less severity than Huntsman. A moderately built shoulder, a full canvassed chest, a natural waist. The house's history in court and livery tailoring is still visible in its formal work, which is a genuine specialism rather than a sideline.

天然
无垫肩·随体而就
柔软
薄垫·柔和线条
Spalla camicia
袖山如衬衫般抽褶
绳肩
袖头耸起呈脊状
延伸
延伸超出肩点
肩部的五种形式 Right shoulder, front-on; the dashed line is the wearer’s own. Spalla camicia is the Neapolitan signature. The roped shoulder is Roman and Parisian in origin, and Cifonelli’s is the best known. The extended shoulder belongs to the sharper end of Savile Row and to the Nutters silhouette. The shoulder is where a house’s cut is most visible and hardest to fake, because it is built inside the coat. 图示由 Il Sartoriale 绘制。

记录档案

创立于
1806The firm dates itself from 1806; it moved to Savile Row in the 1840s.
城市
London · 15 Savile Row
Service levels
Bespoke
肩部
Soft
Chest construction
Full canvas
Silhouette
Balanced English; moderate shoulder, natural waist
Handwork
Extensive
Cutting in house
Yes
Sewing in house
No
产地
London (outworkers)
试穿
2–4
Lead time
12–26 weeks
Ownership
— 制作商未说明
以……著称
Savile Row · Formal Wear · Livery
Record confidence
High此记录在多大程度上依据一手来源,而非转引报道。截至 September 2026
Address
15 Savile Row
Documented first
The 1865 short evening coat for the Prince of Wales
Archive
Order ledgers spanning over 150 years
Specialism
Court, livery and formal tailoring
Tradition

价格参考

全站价格 →

以下内容并非报价。所列价格为我们能够溯源的最新数据,以原始发布货币显示。

什么服务价格 税实测基准
Two-piece bespoke suitAn indicative band, not a quotation. Bespoke entry prices normally exclude tax and cloth beyond the house bunch, and houses raise them without announcement. 全定制 £6,000–9,000 excludes UK VAT September 2026 Estimated-Range
Il Sartoriale compilation from publicly reported figures
Bespoke价格通常不含商号面料以外的布料、交付后的修改及运费。委托前请向商号确认。

Trunk show让商号得以在本身工坊以外的地点接受委托并安排试样。日期时有变动;此处呈现的是规律,而非日历,请向商号确认。

城市大约托管方格纹
New YorkDocumented as travelling here for fittings. Schedules change; confirm directly with the house. — — —
TokyoDocumented as travelling here for fittings. Schedules change; confirm directly with the house. — — —

常与之并列参考的工坊

归为一组,因为它们争取相同的委托订单或在相近的风格体系内工作:并非排名,亦非等同。

最近审阅: September 2026 价格与服务详情时有变动;本页注明每项数据的观察日期。 报告此页面的错误

参考资料

  1. House history and archive , Henry Poole & Co.

若某项数据存在争议,或工坊未予公开,本页将如实说明,而非擅自采用某一数字。

图片版权 4
  1. An illustration of the house's recorded cut: soft shoulder, full canvas chest, balanced english; moderate shoulder, natural waist. Not a photograph of the house's own work.: Original art · Il Sartoriale · Il Sartoriale · Il Sartoriale original art
  2. An illustration of the house's recorded cut: natural shoulder, full canvas chest, drape: soft, full chest, long skirt. Not a photograph of the house's own work.: Original art · Il Sartoriale · Il Sartoriale · Il Sartoriale original art
  3. An illustration of the house's recorded cut: roped shoulder, full canvas chest, structured english. Not a photograph of the house's own work.: Original art · Il Sartoriale · Il Sartoriale · Il Sartoriale original art
  4. An illustration of the house's recorded cut: roped shoulder, full canvas chest, lean, high-waisted, single button. Not a photograph of the house's own work.: Original art · Il Sartoriale · Il Sartoriale · Il Sartoriale original art

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